Curver break actuator

[ctvpa]

I recenty posted the issue, my brake activators are curved. I received many comments that they had been alter. They are identicle, and look to be forged. I don not see a number or marking. I bought the car in 1975, and they were in it then.

Has anyone seen curved a curved actuator in you experence?

The car is a Feb 28

Thank you

[Joe K]

Did/do they seem to be curved in a direction advantageous to their action?

I was told by one of the old timers to adjust the brakes so that when fully applied the front levers are straight up (most mechanical advantage.)

Maybe describe if they were curved forward or back? (Pix worth 1X10^3 words)

Joe K

[Marco Tahtaras]

If I recall correctly I previously noted that not only did Ford never do that but if they did, it would require a different lever for right and left sides. While there were variations in this lever they were always under the number A-2084 (two required per vehicle) meaning they were symmetrical. I've been at this a little while and no, I've never seen anyone do that.

[ctvpa]

They are symemetrical, and interchangable. However if the curve is facing forward you cannot fit the brake rods in, if the curve is to the rear, they work fine. I'm wondering if they were from another make car and at some point put on my car. The chassis on my car is fairly complete original parts, I bought it in 1975.
But now that I am restoring the car, I have never seen them with a curve. The rivets seem original. The arm's are not home made, have casting marks.
They were on the car curved forward, I have turned them around to get the rods to fit better.
Any input? I'm going to keep them on the car, they worked for the first 85 years.

[Keith True]

I think that somewhere along the line somebody ran out of threads on the brake rods so they heated the arms and bent them to compensate.It wouldn't take much.Maybe 30 seconds with a torch and a pair of vise grips.If the rod ends don't hang up or bind,and you can fit the rods properly I would just leave them alone.Somebody did something sometime,those are not original,nor is that paint on them. Remember,that car was 45 years old before you ever got to it.

[ctvpa]

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Many people have said this, but I have compaired them, and handled both. They have not been modified, when I place both together they are exact, with identical curve. They are not bent, but have an arch that is identical, too close to be altered. Placed side to side, exact mach.
I truly believe that they are made with this arch style. The car is early, Feb 28, with a 5 digit number. I am wondering if anyone else has seen a car with arched, or curved arms?

[Purdy Swoft]

[QUOTE=ctvpa;591691]

I recenty posted the issue, my brake activators are curved. I received many comments that they had been alter. They are identicle, and look to be forged. I don not see a number or marking. I bought the car in 1975, and they were in it then.

Has anyone seen curved a curved actuator in you experence?

The car is a Feb 28

Thank you[/QUOTE


I've got a set that are just like the ones that you have pictured. I 'm not sure if they are original model A but I used a set on our 31 coupe. The ones that I have don't look like they were heated and bent. I think that I got another set of the curved lever assemblies from A's and more in Connecticut in the early ninties. I don't think that they are early 28 parts. The 28 style assemblies were fatter on the end that enters the king pin. They may be be 32 or later , I don't know.

[ctvpa]

Thank you, I thought I was going crazy. I have a copy of "Ford Chassis parts and Accesssories Catalogue" a dealer parts order book from 1949 but includes all model A, and I cannot find these.

[ctvpa]

Do you have the curve forward, or to the rear. Mine have been facing forward for the last 34 years, however on rebuilding the brakes, I had to turn them to cure to the rear for them to allow enough movement of the arm.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by ctvpa

Many people have said this, but I have compaired them, and handled both. They have not been modified, when I place both together they are exact, with identical cure. They are not bent, but have an arch that is identical, too close to be altered. Placed side to side, exact mach.
I truly believe that they are made with this arch style. The car is early, Feb 28, with a 5 digit number. I am wondering if anyone else has seen a car with arched, or curved arms?

The inner side of the arm base is chamfered to ride against the dust ring while the outer side is flat. This makes them asymmetrical when you add the forward curve.

Have you ever wondered why these arms only worked with worn out brakes?

[Fred]

Originally Posted by ctvpa

I recenty posted the issue, my brake activators are curved. I received many comments that they had been alter. They are identicle, and look to be forged. I don not see a number or marking. I bought the car in 1975, and they were in it then.

Has anyone seen curved a curved actuator in you experence?

The car is a Feb 28

Thank you

This set is 100% NOT for a Feb. 1928 Car or Truck. Or for that matter ANY Original Model "A"

[ctvpa]

These arms have no chamfer on either side, but are beveled on both sides and the dust ring fits fine into them from either side. They are symmetrical and identical in every way.

The brakes worked fine, I drove the car since 1975, and when I would change the brake shoes, they adjusted fine and worked well. I have recently done a ground up, and with that I questioned the arms when I evaluated and compared my car to some others close up. At the recent Regional meet, I noticed mine were different from others.
For the first 38 years I have had the car, I never realized the difference. In that amount of time, I have gone through many sets of brakes, I never said that they only worked on 'worn out brakes', however on rebuilding, I noticed that the tolerance of the brake rod was tight on the inferior aspect, and speculated that they would have more range of movement if they were turned to arch to the rear. That caused my inquiry, and hence led to my posting.

[ctvpa]

Perhaps this one part is from another car, make or model. Or an aftermarket part. Via this site, I now know that another car also has them. That is the reason for my post, research of a part.
In the years since 1928, many cars have been retrofitted with all sorts of parts. Can anyone identify if these are from another make?
However the rest of the car is indeed a Model A, and these work well. I am not building a points car, and they work. So I will keep them.
I hope some of you will be at the museum opening, my car will be there, and I would enjoy meeting all who have helped me with this question. Thanks

[Fred]

Originally Posted by ctvpa

These arms have no chamfer on either side, but are beveled on both sides and the dust ring fits fine into them from either side. They are symmetrical and identical in every way.

The brakes worked fine, I drove the car since 1975, and when I would change the brake shoes, they adjusted fine and worked well. I have recently done a ground up, and with that I questioned the arms when I evaluated and compared my car to some others close up. At the recent Regional meet, I noticed mine were different from others.
For the first 38 years I have had the car, I never realized the difference. In that amount of time, I have gone through many sets of brakes, I never said that they only worked on 'worn out brakes', however on rebuilding, I noticed that the tolerance of the brake rod was tight on the inferior aspect, and speculated that they would have more range of movement if they were turned to arch to the rear. That caused my inquiry, and hence led to my posting.

You can see what you should have on your car in the Restoration Guidelines on page 7-5 revised 2011.. It shows ALL that were made by Ford for the Model A..

[ctvpa]

Fred, Thank you very much for all your help. I did look at the guidelines a few weeks ago (They have been my bible during this process, very well done), and that is why I posted this. I realized that I had something very different, but what. It is either from another make, or an aftermarket gimmick. Men like you, and this website have been very helpful on my quest. I am doing it all myself.
You must understand that during the 60's and 70's Model A's were fun little projects for a guy to have, and the clubs went on tours with the family on the weekend. Back then you really did not do a lot of repair work. When your tranny was making a noise, you would say it at the club meeting and about 5 members would have a couple trannys in their shed and you just swapped it out. You never spent a lot of money, because you could get another car for $600. I have a receipt for a total engine job from 1976 $730, and my whole new exhaust was $9.95. I have an early Snyders book I should post, you would all love the price of things back then.
It's very different today.
Thanks again, Craig

[Marco Tahtaras]

Are you still using the same push rods, wedges, worn roller tracks, etc.? Those are the wear points the curved levers were there to compensate for. As these areas wear, the levers move increasingly rearward to remove free-play in the system. Replacing, repairing these wear points does exactly the opposite moving the levers forward.

[Purdy Swoft]

The ones on the coupe were arched to the rear. At the time that I did the brakes, I used the curved arm assys. because they were the tightest and best that I had on hand. I drove it from the mid seventies through the ninties and then gave it to my daughter a few years ago . I have another set in one of my parts buildings that are arched to the front . I figure they could be later model levers or it could have been an aftermarket lever for improved brakeing. The coupe has had very good brakes . I used the old style floaters and cast iron drums. I did shorten the push rod about 5/16 but that was necessary to use the old style floaters. My daughter still drives it and it'll stop on a dime.

[ctvpa]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Are you still using the same push rods, wedges, worn roller tracks, etc.? Those are the wear points the curved levers were there to compensate for. As these areas wear, the levers move increasingly rearward to remove free-play in the system. Replacing, repairing these wear points does exactly the opposite moving the levers forward.

It has taken me several years, but I have brought every piece on the bench and worked it back as close as I can. I mig'ed the roller tracts and ground them to speck, I am still using my original push rods. I find the reproduction rods are too short. I ordered from several companies and they were up to 1/4" too short. I don't understand how they sell them. My rods were in good condition and the correct length. I corrected my wedges, and polished them smooth. If these were an aftermarket item, and anyone has an ad, or information on them I would enjoy seeing it.

I am converting to "Flathead Teds" brake modification. I did not understand the difference between the regular and the 'deluxe' conversion kit, but I will say that Ted is a very fine person who sent me several emails.
I do not see any of the U.S. dealers offer his 'deluxe' kit, or they sell a knock-off, and I was also stunned to see that it is cheaper to order direct from him, shipping from New Zeland is less than the suppliers ($20 vs $37). So I have the deluxe kit, and hoping they work a good as everyone says.

Thank you so much. If you go to the museum opening, I will be the guy with the curved brake arms.

[ctvpa]

For all of you who have helped, if you're interested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJHMrVqkvnw

[blgitn]

Yeay!!