Oops of the day

[Minn-Tex Lee]

After many trys, I got my paint ( Black PPG acrylic enamel) to lay out pretty nice.
I hand buffed a 6"x6" spot and then polished it and could see the smile in my face.
I then got out my new buffer with a foam pad , using proper buffing cream I proceded to do the rest of the fender.
Within 15 seconds I removed the paint down to the primer.
I had only waited over-nite from paint to buffing. Should I have waited longer?
My paint can didn't address this. What do you paint experts think.
Lee

[29ModelA]

Probably too soon, but maybe not enough hardener as well?

I sprayed enamel on my first truck years ago, and followed the directions. That paint was always really soft.

[gweilbaker]

Enamel requires a very slow pad speed best controlled by variable speed buffer. Could this be the issue?

[Droobie]

Two years later and I am still waiting to buff my car out...... My wife says Im lazy. I told her the paint is not dry yet.

[Minn-Tex Lee]

My buffer only has one speed. Since it is a roadster (not a lot of area), I think hand buffing will be the solution. I really don't want to wait too long because the buffing really makes it look good.
Thanks for the thoughts.
Lee

[Marco Tahtaras]

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Acrylic enamel needs a week to "rush it" and much longer to do it right. It was still soft as butter below the surface!!!

[J Franklin]

Just remember the old adage "Haste makes waste"

[Richard Wilson]

I have read that it is very easy to buff through even dried paint if you do not have the right equipment, knowledge and/or skills.

I am not a "color sand and buff" guy. That is why I use acrylic enamel with hardner (proper spraying technique and it will flow out and shine like glass) and not base/clear paints. When I finish pulling the masking tape I am finished with paint, rather than about half finished. I wait six months to a year to even wax a car painted with enamel/hardner and never color sand and buff.

Good luck with the repaint.

[Bob C]

The information you need is probably not on the paint can, you need to download the P-sheet
from the manufactures web site. Here is a link to DAR P-sheet http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdarp.pdf

Bob

[Bill in SoCal]

Thanks for sharing. God knows I've made my share of 'Oops' or is it 'Oopses.' The job does go easier the second time because I have experience. :-) Bill

[lindy williams]

Lee, did you use the hardener in the paint? your post doesn't say. Did you apply 3 coats. I always apply 3 coats when I plan to sand and buff. The other guys are right though, 24 hrs or less drying time is really too short.

[wi0v]

I have had great luck with Enamel. I spray three coats about 15 to 30 Minutes apart. Wait one day and wet sand it with 2000 grit paper with a foam backing pad. Just when the shine and orange peel and dust particles are gone, (don't have a booth) I polish it with a Cyclo polisher with soft foam pads using the finest grit polish I can get. It only takes a few quick passes. If I have a dead bug in the paint that doesn't come out the first time, I just clean it with a little thinner and respray it.

Painting really isn't rocket science. If you mess up a piece, just sand it with 1500 or 2000 wet paper untill the runs, dirt, finger prints and bugs are smoothed out and do it again. Have done an airplane, car and my Model A this way and it works fine.

It's fun and a great part of the hobby. I really enjoy saying "I painted it in the Garage" rather than giving some expensive body shop all the credit.