Another Evaporust success story

[mrtexas]

This is the liftgate hinge from my 41 woodie. It was rusted shut and now operates as it should after soaking overnight in generic Evaporust from Rust911.com. I've also used the same stuff from http://rustdepot.com/rustremover/rustremover.htm but it is more expensive. I like the generic in that it is way cheaper and comes as a concentrate for $3.72/gallon mixed vs $30/gallon for Evaporust. It can be mixed stronger than Evaporust so it works faster as well. I also rescued the hinge on a rusted shut 36 glove box the same way. I can't think of another product to fix a rusted shut folded over type hinge. It dissolves the rust and leaves no residue.

[tubman]

This is good to hear. I just got my first gallon of Rust911" after using "Evaporust" for years. I put about two quarts in the cooling system of my '51 Merc engine along with 14 quarts of water on Friday. I've run the engine up to operating temperature 3 times since then, and will do it again today and then again tomorrow. Then I'll drain it to see what I have. Looking into the water outlet openings, it had a lot of rust in it when I started.

[adileo]

will it work in a spray bottle?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by tubman

This is good to hear. I just got my first gallon of Rust911" after using "Evaporust" for years. I put about two quarts in the cooling system of my '51 Merc engine along with 14 quarts of water on Friday. I've run the engine up to operating temperature 3 times since then, and will do it again today and then again tomorrow. Then I'll drain it to see what I have. Looking into the water outlet openings, it had a lot of rust in it when I started.

Please let us know what you find - the results with pictures if possible...

And, the title of this thread should have read: "Another Rust911 success story"
Rust911 is not "Evaporust" > http://www.rust911.com/

[corvette8n]

Originally Posted by adileo

will it work in a spray bottle?

Not really it works by Chelation so it needs to be in constant wet contact with the metal, best you could do is cover with paper towels and keep them wet.

[mrtexas]

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Originally Posted by petehoovie

Please let us know what you find - the results with pictures if possible...

And, the title of this thread should have read: "Another Rust911 success story"
Rust911 is not "Evaporust" > http://www.rust911.com/

You are right but more people know what Evaporust is.

Rusty item needs to be submerged.

The rust is hidden inside the hinge. :You already see the results. Before I put the hinge in the solution yesterday it wouldn't open all the way like it is in the picture. The rust911 gets black when it dissolves the rust.

[35fordtn]

I have used rust 911 and it is equally as good as evaporust and way less $$.. I love it

[Bruce/CT]

Hi,
Are there any paint types that can not be used over RUST911?
Thanks, Bruce/CT

[Bruce Lancaster]

Evaporust is great for entire assemblies that are badly rusted as you don't have to worry about non-ferrous parts. I've dropped in complete Strombergs to clean up screws and throttles before teardown (the crusty screws would have wiped out the threads in the zinc otherwise) and left them in the soup for weeks. The stuff will NOT eat metal after it is finished with the rust, and I'm sure you know that any other rust cleanerupper would have eaten the entire Stromberg in a day. Creative container use can help you submerge odd shaped parts without huge amount$ of ER, things like Texas's pipe or gutter up there, or cardboard boxes cut to shape needed and lined with plastic sheeting.
I don't know if Rust911 is same stuff as ER...I know there are numerous formulas, and the Home Depot equivalent is not the same.
Actual ER leaves most paints alone (except of course any that has rust underneath it), but it actually strips some tin boxes like elderly Snap-on 1/4" sets. I don't know what sorts of paint these are, but I haven't seen any removal of automotive finishes. I would except things like gauges and speedometers...faces of those can be destroyed by just water. Probably the things that give trouble were originally water based.

[Tinker]

Thanks for the tip on rust911. I used evaprorust on my truck door mechanisms. Cleaned them right up. I'm glad there's a cheaper version now.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

Creative container use can help you submerge odd shaped parts without huge amount$ of ER,

I've been wondering if others had the same problem keeping Evapo Rust contained. I put some heads in a plastic storage box lined with a trash bag. Then I filled around the heads under the bag with dirt to minimize the volume of ER needed. Some of the ER leaked out into the dirt. I kept adding ER to soak the heads and when I removed the bag I couldn't find any holes. It might be that trash bags are not the ticket for this use.

[Bertha]

Love the stuff.....





Bob

[Kahuna]

Hi Tubman
What was the outcome?
Thanks
Jim

[tubman]

Jim,

Yesterday, I drained the "Rust911" solution from the system. What came out looked like very muddy water. I refilled the system with water and a bottle of rust inhibiter/water pump lube and ran it up to operating temperature a couple of times. When I drained that, it came out looking like mud again. Since there seemed to be more in there, I filled it with the "Rust911" solution again (this is getting expensive!) and ran it up to operating temperature again a couple of times, I'll do this again for the next couple of days until I can get relatively clear water out of it.

One thing I did notice is that before I started, it didn't take much time to get to 190 degrees on the test stand. (The radiator and fan setup is not the best.) The last couple of times I ran it, it took substantially longer to get to 190, so something is happening. If the water flush in a couple of days comes out looking like mud again, I've got enough "Rust911" to run another cycle or two. I'll probably have a better idea of where I am next week.

I'm spending some time on this because this engine seems to in excellent shape It has 105-110 lbs compression on all eight cylinders and runs 25 lbs oil pressure at idle and 45 lbs at 1500 rpm and up. After I'm all done, I'm going to take the stock heads and manifold off and replace them with racy aluminum parts. At that time, I'll have a better chance to check the water passages and see what's up. From the looks of the coolant when I drain it, it seems something beneficial is going on.

Here's a crappy video of the engine running. For a used engine I bought 20 years ago (I did hear it run then) for $400, I figure I lucked out.

https://youtu.be/2-aA6jF1jRA

Tubman

[40cpe]

It sounds healthy.

[tubman]

Thanks. It sounds better in person. I think the ignition is feeding back to my camera causing the "crackling" sound.

[Kahuna]

Tub
My understanding is that the rust stuff is reusable, after straining thru a cloth of some sort.
Maybe that's only the Evaporust
Jim
Thanks for the response. Hope it works out well.
I'd say you did real well on the purchase of that engine. Did the Fenton headers come with it?

[tubman]

Jim,

Even with "real" EvapoRust, I found that when it gets black, it doesn't work any more. I doubt that you could filter much out of it; my understanding of it is that it works by bonding the iron ions from the subject with the active ingredient in the solution. I will try to run some of the next coolant drain through a couple of layers of cloth and see what happens. It's sure be nice if you're right about it. I think I'm probably going end up running the whole gallon through this engine.

The Fenton headers have been on the original engine in the '51 for almost 30 years. I know it's not supposed to hurt, but I just don't like running open exhaust ports, so I bolted them on. The way this engine has turned out so far, I don't want to take any chances with it.

[tubman]

For anyone who is still interested, I ran the engine up to temperature a couple of more times today. I drained a little of the solution out of the engine. It is starting to clear up, which is good, but it is still kinda black. I strained about 8 ounces through 4 layers of a clean old towel I had at the shop. The "Rust911"solution looked as bad (muddy) as it did before I strained it. To give it a final test, I put a rusty screw and bolt into the strained solution, and I will let them soak overnite. I'll let you know what happens. I am pretty encouraged with the results. I am going to flush it again tomorrow and do the "Rust 911" thing one more time. After that, I'll clean and paint the engine, and remove the heads and manifold to see what I have. At that time, I'll take a bunch of pictures, and you folks can judge for yourselves.

Stay tuned.

[Kahuna]

Ok Tub
Tap, tap tap. Waiting & waiting, ha ha
Jim