head removal

[billfish]

I'm going to attempt to remove the right hand head on my stock 1951 flathead V8 to inspect the exhaust valve after a failed leak down test on cylinder number 3. After reading the many posts on this site about removing broken head bolts I know I need to be careful and have a plan before I just attack each bold with a socket and a breaker bar. Any ideas on how I should proceed will be greatly appreciated.

[48 coupe]

I would use an impact wrench. Slow and easy.

[Ol' Ron]

Ditto

[billfish]

Unfortunately I do not have access to an impact wrench.

[billfish]

Looks like I can rent an impact wrench, what would be best air or electric, I do have a compressor.

[keith oh]

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Air , start low pressure.

[Rand]

When I broke my dizzy hold down bolt I had to remove the head to fix it. In the process I broke 3 head bolts (should of used a impact wrench) =/ anyways...if you look on Reds Heads website you will find a process of extracting the broken bolts in your block while the engine is still in the car. This worked wonderfully for me =) I would even lend a fellow Ford Barner the needed sleeves for drilling mentioned on Reds website.
Good luck!
Also.. I've read of people blowing them out with a torch (scary) or welding a washer and a nut to the broken bolt. Personally I've had no experience with either of those.
Randy

[flatford8]

If they start to turn hard, turn them back in a little and spray penetrent on the shoulder, then back out. The rust jams the threads and then they will break...... MARK

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by billfish

I'm going to attempt to remove the right hand head on my stock 1951 flathead V8 to inspect the exhaust valve after a failed leak down test on cylinder number 3. After reading the many posts on this site about removing broken head bolts I know I need to be careful and have a plan before I just attack each bold with a socket and a breaker bar. Any ideas on how I should proceed will be greatly appreciated.

Lets get back to your first post. you mention leak down test. before I'd remove the head I'd put an adapter in the spark plug hole, turn engine so piston is close to TDC and pump air in the cyl, if it blows out exh. pipe it's ext valve, if it blows up carb it's intake, if it blow alot into the base it's the rings. Walt

[billfish]

Walt thanks for the reply--I put 100 lbs pressure into cylinder #3 and air came out exhaust on TDC. I also turned engine by hand with pressure on #3 and air came out exhaust no matter what position the crank was in.

I will use impact tool on head bolts but with engine in the car it looks like I will not be able to get to several of them with the impact tool. Is there any other tricks I can use if a few of them give me trouble, such as heat or penetrating oil?

Thanks Bill

[oldford2]

I don't think heat or penetrating oil will get down to the threads. Might try with the breaker bar to tighten 1/8 turn then back off 1/8 turn, then tighten 1/8 turn then turn the bolt out. Bolts don't seem to break as often as studs do. JMO

[48 coupe]

Not sure . if it's a later block. 49 /53 does it have studs or nut's on the head bolts. if it has nuts[ not studs]. If you have to use the breaker bar. slow, back it out some then in. use panther piss. and some heat. slow is the name of the game.

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by billfish

Walt thanks for the reply--I put 100 lbs pressure into cylinder #3 and air came out exhaust on TDC. I also turned engine by hand with pressure on #3 and air came out exhaust no matter what position the crank was in.

I will use impact tool on head bolts but with engine in the car it looks like I will not be able to get to several of them with the impact tool. Is there any other tricks I can use if a few of them give me trouble, such as heat or penetrating oil?

Thanks Bill

If it is just a stuck valve, have you considered taking the intake manifold off first to see if it can be unstuck? To replace it you will have to take the manifold off anyway, might save you the hassle of wrestling the head off.

[billfish]

The head is put on with bolts not studs. The cylinder #3 does have 40 lbs with the compression test but does not fire at idle, but must fire at higher rpm because plug is clean and looks like the other 7 when removed. Thinking the valve is closing but not sealing completely. Car starts and runs well except for a very rough idle. No change in rpm at idle when #3 plug wire is removed.

[Russ/40]

You have a compressor, and no impact gun. Good grief for 20 or 30 bucks, get a cheap harbor freight one. I'm still using my cheap HF one 20 years later.

[billfish]

Just getting back into the car hobby after two many years busy raising kids and working. I'll be updating the tool box sooner than later. I'm having fun working on the 51 Victoria, I owned this same make and model 55 years ago and would pull the heads off at that time with no hesitation. Smarter and more cautious today.

[48 coupe]

That's a good looking 51. Just dive in. It's more fun doing the restore than it is after it's done. I thought I would drive mine like I did back in the day. didn't work out that way. HMMMMM might be something to do with being 76. I would run some . at. fluid down the carb. fog up the area.

[billfish]

SOFAKING suggests removing the intake manifold first to check valve before removing head. If the problem is a stuck valve will I be able to move the valve from the intake manifold opening to un-stick it? I'm thinking the valve must be closing almost all the way to still have 40 lbs on compression check.

[Jack E/NJ]

Maybe. You should at least be able to see if it's indeed stuck or sticking.

Jack E/NJ

[48 coupe]

No you can't see anything in the intake valley, except if the lifter, and valve stem is going up and down. You could check to see if it had extra clearance. that would indicate it may not be closing all the way. Just pull the head and intake and get it over with. Sounds easy to say if I don't have to do it, LOL