The Ford Barn

gearloose · 08-12-2010, 07:20 AM

The steering wheel has 3" of play and it's all in the box, adj nut is all the way in. Any way to adjust my way out of the play or is a rebuild the only way. What would be so worn to cause the play?

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 08-12-2010, 07:34 AM

Where you at with the shims? Have you removed any of those?

How much sector bushing clearance?

(The "adj nut" is likely not doing what you think it does!!)

.

gearloose · 08-12-2010, 08:03 AM

I have no info on how to adjust the box, seems all the books cover the 2 tooth well but not the 7 tooth other then the one "adjustment screw." Will shims help remove the 3" of free play in the wheel before the arm moves? All help appreciated.

rotorwrench · 08-12-2010, 09:20 AM

Most of the old Ford steering boxes could be adjusted for just a bit of minor wear before an overhaul was in order. What you describe could be major wear that most likely can not be fully compensated for. 7 tooth sectors can be adjusted for steering shaft end play and sector shaft end play and thats it. If the steering shaft has end play you can tell by pulling out and pushing in on the steering wheel. You need shims to adjust. There is a screw to adjust the sector shaft end play. No amount of adjustment can compensate for worn out bearings though.

Get yourself a copy of "Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook" by Les Andews or some equivalent publication to help you through the maintenance these old cars require.

Kerby

Ken Ehrenhofer · 08-12-2010, 09:24 AM

I would "play" around with it some more,

Sorry just had to say it,
Ken

2manycars · 08-12-2010, 09:37 AM

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Time to take it apart. You will perhaps find that one of the roller bearings is kaput, causing the slack. If the bearings are ok, then I suspect the gears are worn past normal, and will need to be changed. 3 inches seems a lot today, but when they were new, an inch was normal, so while 3 is not good, it is not the end of the world. The adjustment you are referring to is only for end play of the sector shaft. Turn it in until it stops, then back off about 1/8 of a turn and lock the lock nut.

Purdy Swoft · 08-12-2010, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearloose

The steering wheel has 3" of play and it's all in the box, adj nut is all the way in. Any way to adjust my way out of the play or is a rebuild the only way. What would be so worn to cause the play?

A lot of the problem MAY be that the pitman arm needs to be tightened. Have someone move the steering wheel back and fourth from one end of play to the other while you watch. If there is the least bit of slack between the square end of the sector and the pitman arm, this will cause inches of play at the steering wheel. You will need to remove the cotter pin from the castile nut and use a six point socket and a LONG 1/2 inch drive pull handle. You will need to really bow up on this one, It is not easy to break.

As for end play in the steering shaft, if present you will need to remove shims from the lower housing. You will need to remove the light switch and spyder, there is four bolts to remove and the lower part of the housing will come off. There will be a stack of thin shims under this part. Remove just enough shims to take out the end play. Check for bind, if there is the least bit of bind you will need to replace a shim. Trial and error will get er done. Good luck and let us know if it helps. If you can get it to where it only has two inches play or a little less, that will probably be as good as you will get it. As a side note, the sector bushings are the first thing to go and if they are worn out you will see the pitman arm move slightly up and down when the steering wheel is moved back and fourth

Fred K-OR · 08-12-2010, 04:40 PM

If you opt for a rebuild, I removed most of my play by putting in two new ball bearings and putting in a new oversized lower bushing. I had the machine shope turn down the steering shaft to fit the new oversize bushing. Just a few comments. Although it takes time and effort, it is not that hard to rebuild this thing. Also put in the tube to keep it from leaking. Even a know nothing about Model A's like me with the help of a number of Barners got the job done.

gearloose · 08-12-2010, 07:48 PM

Thanks, I have a lot to work with now. I will do the checks and shims and see how it goes
Thanks
Dan

08-12-2010, 07:20 AM	#1
gearloose Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South Berwick,Maine Posts: 59	1929 7 tooth box has 3" of play The steering wheel has 3" of play and it's all in the box, adj nut is all the way in. Any way to adjust my way out of the play or is a rebuild the only way. What would be so worn to cause the play?

08-12-2010, 07:34 AM	#2
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,546	Re: 1929 7 tooth box has 3" of play Where you at with the shims? Have you removed any of those? How much sector bushing clearance? (The "adj nut" is likely not doing what you think it does!!) . __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

08-12-2010, 08:03 AM	#3
gearloose Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South Berwick,Maine Posts: 59	Re: 1929 7 tooth box has 3" of play I have no info on how to adjust the box, seems all the books cover the 2 tooth well but not the 7 tooth other then the one "adjustment screw." Will shims help remove the 3" of free play in the wheel before the arm moves? All help appreciated.

08-12-2010, 09:20 AM	#4
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,489	Re: 1929 7 tooth box has 3" of play Most of the old Ford steering boxes could be adjusted for just a bit of minor wear before an overhaul was in order. What you describe could be major wear that most likely can not be fully compensated for. 7 tooth sectors can be adjusted for steering shaft end play and sector shaft end play and thats it. If the steering shaft has end play you can tell by pulling out and pushing in on the steering wheel. You need shims to adjust. There is a screw to adjust the sector shaft end play. No amount of adjustment can compensate for worn out bearings though. Get yourself a copy of "Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook" by Les Andews or some equivalent publication to help you through the maintenance these old cars require. Kerby Last edited by rotorwrench; 08-12-2010 at 10:24 AM.

08-12-2010, 09:24 AM	#5
Ken Ehrenhofer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Woodstock, Illinois Posts: 597	Re: 1929 7 tooth box has 3" of play I would "play" around with it some more, Sorry just had to say it, Ken

08-12-2010, 09:37 AM	#6
2manycars Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern CT Posts: 2,732	Re: 1929 7 tooth box has 3" of play Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Time to take it apart. You will perhaps find that one of the roller bearings is kaput, causing the slack. If the bearings are ok, then I suspect the gears are worn past normal, and will need to be changed. 3 inches seems a lot today, but when they were new, an inch was normal, so while 3 is not good, it is not the end of the world. The adjustment you are referring to is only for end play of the sector shaft. Turn it in until it stops, then back off about 1/8 of a turn and lock the lock nut.

08-12-2010, 04:40 PM	#8
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Re: 1929 7 tooth box has 3" of play If you opt for a rebuild, I removed most of my play by putting in two new ball bearings and putting in a new oversized lower bushing. I had the machine shope turn down the steering shaft to fit the new oversize bushing. Just a few comments. Although it takes time and effort, it is not that hard to rebuild this thing. Also put in the tube to keep it from leaking. Even a know nothing about Model A's like me with the help of a number of Barners got the job done. __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster

08-12-2010, 07:48 PM	#9
gearloose Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South Berwick,Maine Posts: 59	Re: 1929 7 tooth box has 3" of play Thanks, I have a lot to work with now. I will do the checks and shims and see how it goes Thanks Dan