1935 front motor mount

[hotstuff1143]

I am putting a 1937 engine in a 1935 ford fordor. I read some were that i would need to put spacers on the front mounts to raise the engine 1 1/2 in. Why would this be is it because of the difference water pumps. i will be using 1937 style pumps.

[danliveshere]

I had a 37 engine in my 35 and had no clearance issues. You are going to work out what fan you’re using to make sure you have clearance around the radiator. I used an electric fan so I never had that issue

[tubman]

As I understand it the difference is between pre and post 1941. Hurst lists the spacer for use their standard mount series in '35-'40 Fords. (they were initially designed to be used for '41 through '48 vehicles.)

"petehoovie" - Here's another problem with posting pictures. The picture here is a .pdf, and when I click on it, it downloads. Do you know how to make appear inline in the thread?

[hotstuff1143]

I was planning to use the set up that is on my 35 engine. I though it would work.

[Shorty]

I have a 35 sedan with a factory replacement engine. The engine is a 37 short block with water pump block off plates on the front of the block. I use the '35 221 iron heads with the stock water pumps. I'm also using a cooling fan in the stock location mounted on an alternator. It also uses the stock '35 front motor mounts.



The car runs cool, has decent power and comes with the factory insert bearings.


I would stick with the stock water pumps so you don't have to mess with the motor mounts. All you would need are the two block off plates. If you can't find them they would be real easy to fab. You could use a block mounted water pump gasket as a template. You'll be glad you did...

[JM 35 Sedan]

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The '37 engine is basically a drop in and bolt up conversion in an original unmodified '35 Ford, "IF" you use block off plates where the '37 water pumps mounted, '35 front engine mounts/coolent inlets, '34-'36 heads, water pumps, generator, fan, intake manifold and distributor.
This conversion even looks totally original untill you happen to notice the block off plates on front of the block.

[Leadfoot4U]

[tubman]

Thanks,"Leadfoot". That's what I was looking for.

[hotstuff1143]

so the 37 style pump i put on the engine will not work. I have 37 style heads.
what would i have to change to make them work?

[Brian]

so the 37 style pump i put on the engine will not work. I have 37 style heads.
what would i have to change to make them work?



Rest assured, it will all bolt up, 37 water pump mount spacing is identical to that on 35...you'll need to sort radiator hoses etc...the bottom hoses to suit an 8BA will work, they have a slight kink in them and will take up the slight mis-alighnment you'll discover exists. Top hoses: a while back Bob Drake offered the top hoses to suit centre head outlets to 35-36 radiator, you'll need to possibly shop around to find a dealer with them in stock.

[hotstuff1143]

Originally Posted by Brian

so the 37 style pump i put on the engine will not work. I have 37 style heads.
what would i have to change to make them work?



Rest assured, it will all bolt up, 37 water pump mount spacing is identical to that on 35...you'll need to sort radiator hoses etc...the bottom hoses to suit an 8BA will work, they have a slight kink in them and will take up the slight mis-alighnment you'll discover exists. Top hoses: a while back Bob Drake offered the top hoses to suit centre head outlets to 35-36 radiator, you'll need to possibly shop around to find a dealer with them in stock.

Thank you Brain. I already have the radiator hoses for the 35 to 37. So my fan set up on the 35 engine should work on the 37 block right.

[Brian]

In 1937, Ford redesigned the inlet manifold, lowering the generator mount. As the fan was now lower, they could increase its diameter, but also changed the distributor coil to provide clearance... I'm not sure which year components you are using here, you will be ok using all the 35 parts, probably also, all 37 parts. You'll probably strike interference with coil/fan/radiator by mixing these components...

[hotstuff1143]

Originally Posted by Brian

In 1937, Ford redesigned the inlet manifold, lowering the generator mount. As the fan was now lower, they could increase its diameter, but also changed the distributor coil to provide clearance... I'm not sure which year components you are using here, you will be ok using all the 35 parts, probably also, all 37 parts. You'll probably strike interference with coil/fan/radiator by mixing these components...

Thank you I plan on using all the bolt on parts i am pulling out of the car.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by hotstuff1143

so the 37 style pump i put on the engine will not work. I have 37 style heads.
what would i have to change to make them work?

That's another option if you don't want your engine and engine compartment to appear too be an original '35. The '37 to '48 stock type water pumps will work fine and will actually give you better cooling by pumping the coolant thru the lower block more efficiently than the early style pumps mounted in heads. The motor mount feet on the '37 to '48 style water pumps will sit on the rubber donut motor mounts exactly like the '35 mounts. You do not need those U shaped spacers shown on another post here. They would normally be used when installing an 8ba engine with '49 Mercury water pumps with wide belt pullies. Or truck water pumps could be used with an 8ba engine and again no U shaped spacers would be necessary.
Going with a complete '37 engine will also require longer "S" shaped top hoses that are available from gates, or you could also make up your own as I've done in the past when installing a 59 series engine in my '35.
Another situation you may encounter is using the stock '37 intake will set the generator with fan mounted to pulley lower than the stock '35 intake. So, because of this, I would suggest using a '35 or '36 intake manifold and a '34 to '36 cooling fan.