Repop Front Spring

[Joe K]

no longer available from Travis Cook. It is understandable as Travis reports he has trouble getting stock, and to produce a Model A spring to "Ford standard" is difficult - and he's not getting any younger.

So the pursuit is continued to "alternates." It is amazing what non-conforming springs are sold as "Model A" on Ebay.

Recently arrived from Eckler's/Macs below.

I've seen this spring on Ebay from a seller for about 1/3rd more. I don't imagine this is American steel, nor made in "varying" leaf thicknesses as the original Model A springs were. But it is advertised as "authentic" - and in various details it is: the tapered end of the leaves, the dimple to retain the spring clamp.

It is a step above the "trailer spring" front equivalent that JC Whitney was selling back in the 1970s and which has been on my car variously as I've tried out different front springs.

Ecklers/Macs recommends the spring be "disassembled" (carefully) and each leaf cleaned and greased - and the top-most leaf have the edges "curved" to better fit the frame juncture on top. While I do this I will document the as found leaf thicknesses.

Does anyone know of a producer for this particular spring?

Joe K

[Pete]

As automotive leaf springs have slowly gone out of style, so have shops that work on them.
If you can find one that knows what a leaf spring is and still does their own heat treating, reconditioning a stock original spring is probably the best way to go.

[Stage1gs]

I put a new spring from these guys in the front of my A.. worked well. I got the 12 leaf spring and needed longer u-bolts..

https://eatondetroitspring.com/db/es....3L+-+200.5cid

[Bob from Northport]

I have a brand new one in my shop that was not installed on a customers car if interested.

[Joe K]

Now I'm at the point of disassembly of the Eckler'/Mac spring.

The center bolt is 1/2 head 9/16 nut. While spring was loose on the bench I took a half a turn out of the nut - and got an ominous "grunt" out of the spring. There is obviously some "pent up energy" here - which I knew.

So into the press (pix below) and with some appropriate "restraint" I continued to undo the center bolt - and was rewarded with a couple more "grunts" as the press took up the slack and the nut came off. Backing off on the press (keeping one's body off to one side lest the spring "squirm" out of the restraint) I got to the point where the spring was totally "de-tensioned." To be sure of this I gave the center bolt a "hit" with a hammer (to be sure one leaf wasn't hung up on the paint of the bolt.)

With the press cleared off and center bolt removed, one by one I unstacked the leaves and measured the length of each (for comparison) and then the thickness. I tried to choose spots for "mic" where the paint was thin - or non-existent. (Painting was very rudimentary and seemingly done after spring assembly.)

Surprisingly, this "authentic" spring was not far if any outside of Ford Spec - at least for leaf thickness. The four largest leaves are "thicker" and within the Ford thickness range, and the six smaller leaves are "thinner" - and again all within Ford thickness range.

As I don't have Brent's print and can't see the "fine print" on that drawing, I can't really go further and into a true "Quality Assurance" verification. Particularly I can't really verify the "radius" that each leaf is free-bent to - the "pre-loading" of the spring if you will. Still given that "stored energy" discussed above, it is probably right. AND this tensioning is what separates a worn front spring from a tensioned original - or this seemingly high quality repop.

I say high quality - and for the things that count probably so. But I did notice that one of the leaf "tapers" was cut "off center" - which won't affect service but does affect appearance. This may be able to be minimized for appearance with a hand grinder. Also, one may want to "ease" the leaf ends/leaf juncture anyway to prevent the leaf ends from "cutting" into the leaf below it - this has not been done.

So in many ways this is a "work in progress" front spring - but Ecklers/Macs warns you about that at least in part.

And the price is not bad, all considered.

Joe K

[Pete]

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I see many steel companies have the bar stock so I don't think material is the problem as far as spring availability.

[Richard Knight]

I have bought two new front springs in the last two years. The first one was from Travis to replace a totally clapped out twelve leaf. The car was nose down. New spring helped but car still was low in the front. I called Travis, he sent me another main leaf which I cut the ends off and added It to the stack. The car now looks and rides good. The second spring was from brattons for my coupe which now looks like gasser with its front up in the air and the ride is harsh. I should have disassembled the spring and greased it bit I am thinking about removing a few leaves.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Pete

I see many steel companies have the bar stock so I don't think material is the problem as far as spring availability.

I spoke to Travis at the "height" of the Covid supply issues. He cited the difficulties in getting "the proper stock" as contributing to his decision to pack it in. It may be, no I know, it is better now.

But not Travis. He soldiered on at the Model T site for a while afterwards - probably selling off prepared stock. He also queried me "would you accept a front spring with the eyes turned 'reversed'" as those he still had in stock.

So perhaps best said - "petering out?"

Joe K