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10-16-2013, 05:14 PM | #1 |
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Location: The Villages, FL
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Camshaft re-grind
I was going to send my camshaft to Cam Techniques for a re-grind. When I called there today I was informed that they are closing. Any suggestions? I was hoping to get the L-100 grind.
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10-16-2013, 05:18 PM | #2 |
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Location: Tallahassee, FL
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
When I spoke with the owner he said he was looking for someone to take over the patterns for the L-100. I hope so as I would like one too but I have started looking at alternatives just in case.
--louis |
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10-16-2013, 06:04 PM | #3 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
I was very happy with a regrind from Nelson cams in Utah.
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10-16-2013, 06:07 PM | #4 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
Sorry it was Nielson
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10-16-2013, 06:33 PM | #5 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
I would ask Pete for a grind. He did several for me and they are nice.
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10-16-2013, 06:43 PM | #6 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
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Thanks, --louis |
10-16-2013, 09:47 PM | #7 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
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10-16-2013, 09:53 PM | #8 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
Pete here.
I don't have masters for the L100. I have something that will clean a L100 easily in any car though. Drive-in idle also. Pm me for info. "Been in the cam business 60 years" |
10-17-2013, 04:54 AM | #9 |
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Location: Georgia
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
I had Reed Cams here in Ga to regrind mine a few years ago
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10-17-2013, 05:32 AM | #10 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
I believe Reed has gone out of business. Maybe a couple of years ago.
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10-17-2013, 10:15 AM | #11 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
Pete grinds an Isky 1007B, which is a very good cam, but weather it is better than the L-100, we'll never know.
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10-17-2013, 10:40 AM | #12 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
I have a extra l-100 if some one needs it 8ba
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10-27-2013, 10:44 AM | #13 |
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Location: Downtown Houston TX
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
I'm interested in your L-100, if you still have it.
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10-27-2013, 08:31 PM | #14 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
is there a way to identify a L100 cam ? will it be stamped or something?
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10-28-2013, 01:30 PM | #15 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
With respect to the Flathead cams, Comp can grind just about any spec's that are out there in service presently.
If you require any VERY specific lobe dimensions, all that's necessary is either a cam already finished OR the actual lobe numbers (dimensions). Having the duration @ .200" numbers, besides the usual .050", helps for an exact duplicate. I didn't inquire about this OR "regrinding" any used blanks but I'm assuming they would like to sell new. This is my own guess, I will inquire next time I speak with the rep. We also use ONLY the original Johnson tappets. These have become somewhat "pricey" lately, but are available. Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. They can also "nitride" the blanks for some add'l "surface" hardness. It does add some cost and is always another "option".
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10-28-2013, 02:17 PM | #16 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
"If you require any VERY specific lobe dimensions, all that's necessary is either a cam already finished OR the actual lobe numbers (dimensions)."
This is very true. However, copying an existing cam is not always the best way to go. Every time a cam is copied you lose some of the original profile. Some of the cams being sold today are 4th or 5th (maybe more) generation copies. Unless you can get a cam ground off the original masters or a regenerated set, you are not getting the original specs. Nitriding is good but VERY expensive as Gary noted. Most old time cam grinders re-heatreat their cams. This gives a surface hardness in the toe area of 55RC or better. Much better than original. As a side note. The heat treat in many of the new billets is EXTREMELY POOR! It is not consistent. There will be spots that are hard as a diamond and right next to that it will be dead soft. I wouldn't put one in one of my engines. |
10-28-2013, 05:27 PM | #17 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
Hi Pete, just to be clear, I'm not recommending copying at all, it just seems up here that there's a general consensus that the L-100 cam is a nice piece??
I have no reason to doubt it, but I've never tested one back-to-back with another brand. I can say with all honesty we can deliver a decent Flattie with the Isky line. We've had no issues delivering 150/160 HP & 260/270# Torque on a basic stroker. Fairly straightforward for the most part. We've been running low now on the original Johnson tappets which we purchased some years ago direct from Johnson. At that time we were below $4.00/per, how the times have changed. I don't have to tell you where they are now. We use to put 3 or 4 trays in at a clip, 96 to a tray back then I believe (92 now). I look back now and wish I had invested some more in them. But it's the same story with most Flathead parts, rods, mains, gaskets, etc. Back in the mid to late '80's and early '90's we were doing all the machining for one customer, he would be doing the assembling. He would average around 15 or so builds per year. On a side note, this winter (if we slow down some) I'll be attempting to setup a hydraulic flat-tappet cam program. Will be "labor-intensive" but I have the plan in my head. Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. The "nitriding" process on the cams I believe is a real "plus", but having said that, I can't recall the last "flat-lobe" I've encountered here, and we still do numerous flat-tappet platfoms. All mfr's, not only the Flatheads.
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10-28-2013, 06:29 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
Quote:
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10-28-2013, 07:26 PM | #19 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
I'm curious as CompCams was mentioned, wouldn't they have a CNC machine that if they started with good/original cam, profiled...wouldn't each and every cam come out exactly the same?
I know nothing about cam grinding or variables involved (although I can see that as Pete mentioned if a measured cam was worn, it would not be the same as what it was built from)...but would think if the first program put into the machine was known "as good"...all subsequent ones would be? Thanks. |
10-28-2013, 07:27 PM | #20 |
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Re: Camshaft re-grind
Hi Pete, I totally agree with you and can add this, with any cam mfr that has "reasonably similar specs" you will NOT see much, if any, difference in the measureable number's on the dyno.
Been there, done it! Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. The only difference with most cams in the same range is the idle quality/sound, depending on the grind. It's for this reason I disagree (for the most part) with Comp's "Thumper" series. But that's me. "The sound" is and was always important with the Flatties though.
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