1929 found at garage sale

[guitar4u]

I have a bit of a weird situation. I went to a garage sale that had a cute couple in their 70's. I noticed a car under a cover in the back of the garage. A little bit of talking later, I found out that it is a 1929 ford Sport coupe that the gentleman bought 40 years ago to restore. He never finished it. But he bought tons of parts, all kept in boxes. He also completed all the frame and suspention restoration, all the brakes are new. The body has been sanded and primered, but no dents or dings and I can't see any bondo. All the original steel is there. It has NO rust. He has kept it in his garage for 40 years. Pretty hard to find in Minnasota.

I guess my question is this...I want a hot rod. I am a musician and tour in my motorhome and would love to have a rod in my trailer. But this one seems too nice to make a rod out of. I am sure there is tons of put together rods out there, but this is an all original model A with all the original parts. No rust. Should be an easy restore. But the idea of having a restored car that struggles to do 60 miles an hour doesn't appeal.

After talking for a while, he decided that he could do $3500 for the car and all the parts. He has 2 windshields, an extra set of headlights, all the body parts, etc. All it really needs is the paint and upostery. He said the motor runs, but has a cracked head. He has another one new in the box. Just need to install it.

How valuable would the car be if completed original? Would it be a crime to rod this one out? MY thinking is buy the car and trade it to somebody that has a rod project and want something original. I am sure there are people in the other catagory ( Is this thing too far from original to try and restore?)

Give me some ideas. I have bought the car and will be picking it up on Tuesday.

Thanks
Russ

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by guitar4u

MY thinking is buy the car and trade it to somebody that has a rod project and want something original.

That's not a bad idea. 3500 you'll make money flipping it to a restorer. Then get something that is in you slot.

How much money are you willing to spend to make it a hotrod? Something to think about. Your car.

[Hitchhiker]

Hot rodding is not a crime....except if it is a nice original car. I don't think I could ever take a complete car and part it or rod it, at least nothing that couln't be reversed. I bought the worst body I could find for my av8. If it is nice, please sell it to someone that will restore it.

[Pilotdave]

Russ, thank you for posting about your find. I don't know what the price for that car and parts should be, but $3,500 feels low. I do know that rodding that car would be a major shame - I really like your idea of trading it for something you want. Good for you!

[guitar4u]

"Hot rodding is not a crime....except if it is a nice original car."

That is EXACTLY how I feel. This car is all original and should be an easy original restore. I have a 13 year old son that I want to build a car with before he is gone to college, and I REALLY want a rod, not a musle car ( I have owned several 60's cars). But we both want to build a dropped rod with a chevy 350-350 & ford 9"rear type of thing.

[28RPU]

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I know how you feel. When I bought the car in my avatar I was really wanting a car to rod but this one is so original that I just can't change it. I figure if it managed to last all of these years without being cut up then I won't be the one to do it. It may have been rodded if I hadn't been the one to buy it. I say buy the car and sell it to a restorer and buy what you really want. If you want a rod then you probably don't want a sport coupe anyway.

[Fred K-OR]

Russ you can find a number of Fords that have allready be rodded on EBay. May want to look there for one that would fit you needs and sell what you purchased to someone that wants to restore. Could be a money maker all the way around.

[CWPASADENA]

I agree with the rest. It sounds like too good of a car to Rod. There may be a better car out there for your needs.

Good original restorable cars are getting hard to find and I am sure some Model A person would really like to finish it. May be some one local could buy it and when it is all finished, they could take it by and show it to the Old Couple and may be take them for a ride. It would really make their day.

My Opinion,

Chris

[Hitchhiker]

Originally Posted by guitar4u

"Hot rodding is not a crime....except if it is a nice original car."

That is EXACTLY how I feel. This car is all original and should be an easy original restore. I have a 13 year old son that I want to build a car with before he is gone to college, and I REALLY want a rod, not a musle car ( I have owned several 60's cars). But we both want to build a dropped rod with a chevy 350-350 & ford 9"rear type of thing.

I think you know what you need to do. Sometimes "we" impulse buy a car and figure out what to do with it later. I think you just needed a catalyst to get you started in the early ford hobby. For me it was a rough 1924 c cab tub, I never did anything with it, but it started it all.

BTW you should check out The HAMB board.

[wrndln]

Russ,
I sent you a PM about the car.
Rusty Nelson

[Mike V. Florida]

A look at sites such as Ebay, Craigs list, local shows and the such, show that a restored Model A is worth less than a rodded one. So if it's just a matter of making money rod it.

If you wish to have a part of history that attracts more from attendees at shows and the general public at large, restore it.

Let me give you examples;

Last September at the Adirondack Nationals in NY, out of 1500 cars registered ,50 cars are picked as favotites and invited to come again the next year. In 2010 a stock Model T huckster was one of the 50.

This past weekend there was a tribute to the troops and fund raiser for the DAV. There were cars of all types there. Hot rods, street rods, customs, some owners even bragging about the $15,000 spent on custom chroming. With all the cars there, the Peoples Choice was a stock 1930 Model A roadster.

With the price you have mentioned you could sell it for enough profit to fund your rod project and help to get another original on the road.

Good luck with the work and good to see that your son is interested in something besides computer games.

[Leathernek]

For the love of Henry Ford, man, don't rod it! Preserve a piece of American history, cause these things are getting harder and harder to find. When all of the A's have been rodded, it'll be the originals that will be worth a mint! I just bought a rust bucket AA truck that I saved from being rodded- So please, save the A! -just my $0.02

[Tom Wesenberg]

It sure sounds like you got a good buy on that car. You should be able to sell it to a restorer for a fair profit, then buy this car. I helped move this car so I know what it is. It's missing the engine, tranny, and driveshaft, but Larry is giving an engine with it. It's about 9 miles from me, so if you are in MN it would be close by for you. I'd buy the engine from you, so you wouldn't have to load and haul it. This car has some rust in the areas that would be cut out if you channel it, so it's ideal for a hotrod. Larry is a wheeler dealer, so he might even buy your car to resell.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[Roadster62]

Restored or Hot Rodded it will take two years of your life and $20,000+, more if that 20G isn't in the bank as you read this.

[1930artdeco]

My two cents is that since the car is all there I would not rod it. There are glass/metal bodies, frames, engines etc. out there so you can buy a kit and poof instant brand new rod.

However, since you said that you wanted to build a car with your son and you want a rod here is an idea. Why not restore this car stock wheels, paint, body etc. Then put in a hi. comp. head with dual updraft/downdraft carbs, OD and high speed rear gears? That will get you downt he road at 60 mph, you have saved a car and you have your father/son project?


Mike

[Model A Man]

I see no crime in rodding it. it has been in a garage for 40 years. so if you buy it and rod it then it will be on the road instead of a garage and the stock parts can be sold to someone that is restoring a car. go for it you only live once. I will now duck as things start flying my way.

[SteveM]

If you search ebay, Hemmings and other sources, you may find just the hot rod you are looking for.

Building your own hot rod will cost a LOT of money and time.

Hot rodding is a lot like building a race car, it's cheaper to buy someone else's trial and error than to do your own.

Sell the car and the parts and put that towards your hot rod.

A lot of work has already gone into restoring that car. It would be a shame to let all that go to waste. Someone out there will appreciate the work and will give you enough for you to make a profit on it. You can sell that person the parts or sell them on ebay.

Steve

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by model a man

i see no crime in rodding it. It has been in a garage for 40 years. So if you buy it and rod it then it will be on the road instead of a garage and the stock parts can be sold to someone that is restoring a car. Go for it you only live once. I will now duck as things start flying my way.

duck

[guitar4u]

OK, I went back to see the car with everything taken off it. It had been in his garage for 40 years and was covered in misc. WOW...She is all original with no rust. All the fender are straight and no bondo. This car has never been in an accident! The only rust I could find was some surface rust on the bottom of the rumble seat area. But it is very light surface rust. No cancer. The car looks amazing. So cool to see her out in the light. I couldn't get a car hauler today, so it will have to wait until tomorrow, but she is amazing. The head is cracked, but he bought another one and give it to me with tons of other parts. The back of my suburban is FULL!

For seeing and buying this on a whim, it sure seems like a great buy. I see rust buckets going for what I paid. He says if I change out the head it should start right up.

I guess I am a member for good!

Russ

[Skeezixx]

I guess rodding or restoring depends on what you ultimately want to use the car for.

You said you are a touring musician and want to haul it on tour with you. I would guess you want to toodle around different towns you play in with style and character. You wouldn't be driving it long distances on interstate highways.

This is fine and Original Model A's certainly have character.

While restoring a car (even one as nice and complete as the one you describe) takes time and dedication. Parts are plentiful for Model As so one can work as dictated by one's bank account and time allowance.

Building a Rod requires re engineering much of the original vehicle. This takes more time, more money, and a degree of mechanical skill not always possessed by those of us not being professional engineers or mechanics.

That's why so many unfinished Street Rod projects are available with front ends welded in at wrong angles, water pipe steering linkage, Tires rubbing against fenders, and all other sorts of unsafe mods. The POs had a dream but not the skill to make it happen.

But putting an existing car, especially one as simple as an A model Ford, back together while replacing worn or faulty parts with new parts as designed by the manufacturer is a simple prospect. And I believe more economical in time and money.

If what you want to do is turn heads when you go past people, a Model A does that as well as anything.

If you want to do burnouts and make lots of noise while turning heads, then your Model A needs lots of major modifications.


JMHO

[guitar4u]

She is HOME! Here is some pics...<P>



<P>
<p><p><p>

[guitar4u]

You have to scroll over to the right to see the cute couple I bought it from. Roger handed me some paperwork for the car and it dated from 1964 and was address to him. He has owned the car for 45+ years, two years before I was born! I'll get that head switched out this weekend. He thinks she will fire up. Any tips on starting a car for the first time in 40 years? I know about fuel filters and mystery oil for the cylinders, cleaning the bowl on the carb, etc...

[Tom Wesenberg]

Looks like you got an excellent buy and should make a nicely restored Sport Coupe.

You could pull the distributor and pour a quart of oil down the hole so the mains have oil right away. Rather than do that, since you are pulling the head, just oil the cylinder walls and crank the engine over several times with the head off. Now you will prime the valve chamber to oil the mains, and you can also check that all 8 valves are moving up and down OK. If any valves are stuck, oil the stems and tap them down, but make sure the cam lobe is down for that valve before tapping it down. In other words have that cylinder's piston TDC on firing, then tap on the stuck valve.

Use the copper gasket and spray both sides with Copper-Coat, then install the head.

After the battery is installed with + ground, jump across the two cutout terminals on the generator for 1 second. This will polarize the generator.

[Richard Wilson]

Many of us restorers dream about finding an unrestored Model A in such good shape (and at such a good price). Condition of that body is amazing. Congratulations!

PS.....that is not a popular body style for a hot rod from what I have seen over the years.

[SGT in Ont.]

I think you already have your father-son project. Once you start you will be hooked.

[Tinker]

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Go Twins!!!

If you cut that car up you might as well go over to Rogers house and just punch him in the face too. Just kidding! He might not care at all.

If you have room in the garage and money to burn, keep it and buy a hotrod. If not flip to a guy here and buy a unfinished hotrod project. There are plenty. There is a huge difference in the definition of "hotrod" as well. Driving that one as/is could be considered a jalopy.

Hamb: listings for hotrod projects.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=594436
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=595482
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=593787
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=597016
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=593125

[Uncle Bob]

None of the advice given here is wrong, lots of good intentions. In the real world there are good intentions (or theories), and then there are actual outcomes. Not trying to be a wet blanket here, just more food for thought.

First, GREAT SCORE!!! If you were in love with a stock Model A sport coupe this is close to the score of this young century. Those that have been around this hobby for any length of time will encourage newer comers to buy the best starting material they can find/afford to ensure a higher likelyhood of a positive outcome. This is a good example of that. Since you've expressed a preference for a rod, this only fits if you REALLY want a mild, Model A based car. Some banger speed equipment, maybe hydraulic brakes, '35 wires, drop axle, that sort of thing. Maybe even a body swap if this one doesn't do it for you. If as a traveling musician you don't have the time to do a ground up car, and want something more modified than described here, it's probably not the right starting point, no matter how nice.

But here comes the rub. While folks can spin all manner of scenarios for you to consider, they're only meaningful if they are going to follow through with the transaction............otherwise it's just brain storming. Somewhere out there is "the right guy" for what you might want to do. The guy who's just dying to have this car, and has what you want to trade. But how do you find him, if he really exists? And are both of you in a position at this time, or when you're ready, to make it happen?

Abbreviated story: a few years ago I had a '40 deluxe tudor sedan deal similar to what you have here that came to me in a trade go round. Body wasn't as nice, but the chassis and drive train were all restored and finished. Box loads of NOS parts, plus some good repop stuff. It was absolutely complete, but not fully assembled. For a knowledgable '40 lover it would have been a killer package. I advertised heavily for 6 months. Sent out multiple replies with pictures and 5 pages of detailed spread sheet on the parts available. Typed and spoke lots of descriptions. NADA for real live buyers. This, BTW, was just a few years ago when the economy wasn't bleak and folks were buying old cars by using their home equity as a cash machine.........i.e. supposedly the "ideal" market. In the end I needed the space in the shop, and money back out for the other projects I had. Now some would say, "obviously you were priced too high." Well, except I ended up selling it in pieces for a bit more than half again more than I was asking for the total package. Not an uncommon experience that probably many here have shared.

The point is, anything CAN happen, but how much effort do you have to put in to MAKE it happen. You might get "lucky" and the right guy on this Model A dedicated board will see this thread and step up. I hope so, it would be nice to see someone who loves it make it whole again. But reality says you may have to work at it (hopefully not more than you're prepared for), even though I think you made the right choice and a hell of a good score.

[guitar4u]

Well,

I am keeping her original. I went out this morning and saw in my parts boxes that I had the crank for the motor. I tried it and the car went backwards. Ha, I had it in gear. But a good sign, the tranny and rear-end moved the car. Once I put her in Neutral she spun easily. So, I pulled the sparkplugs out, had my wife crank it and she has compression on all 4 cylinders. I will be heading to Dearborn west to get the head gasket later today.

I have Taken the car apart, and gone through all the parts and I have an abundance of some thing (mechanical), but I am missing a few things. I need the bottom frame to the rumble seat, the door panels (I have the steel trim pieces), the horn, The back deck for behind the seat, A battery, Ignition switch & keys, The original rod that connects the hood together, And tons more I can't think of.

But The three wood frames I have are original and in great shape, The wood on the top was replaced in the 70's( I Have the receipt). He got the wood from a place in Kansas that has gone out of business, but I guess they were the best. The top, no holes, but worn.

The biggest thing is I am putting together something somebody else took apart. So question marks abound. I am a good wrench. I used to rebuild motors for boats back in high school, so mechanical is not an issue. Body work is my weakness, but she looks real clean. I have a guy that restores hotrods that will do a "right" paint job, removing the fenders and putting that rubber beading back in and so on, that is very close to me. She is going back to original colors....Black and rose beige.

I will keep you guys updated on her progress. I have named her "Lucy" after my wife. It is her nickname due to all the crazy stuff she does. All I can say is marry a blond. It makes life interesting! HA!

Here is some more pics. There is a panel on the floor of the trunk, kind of where your feet would be sitting in it that looks replaced, but it looks solid and will be covered by carpet when done.

Thanks for all your input. After build 4 muscle cars, I am looking forward to this. It has been a while, but it will be a fun summer project. I must say, I have never falling in love with a car as much as Lucy. I have only had her for a day, but I love this car. I took her all apart and she didn't bite me once. Can't say that about any of my Mopars.

PS..When I was picking up the car, Rogers brother John came over to say bye to it. He told me a story of how Roger promised to give his kids a ride in it when it was done. That was 1970. His kids are 55 & 58 now, older than me, but if I can get her done in time, I am going to make sure he keeps his promise. Wish me luck!

Oh, and what do I need for the rumble seat to go back in? I didn't see the bracket that would mount to the car in anything I found. Can somebody post a pic of one?

And thanks to Rusty for help me get her home. Thanks bud!

[John Kennedy]

WOW! That's nice!
You be careful with that crank, or you'll get your arm in a cast. I think there's a particular way to do that.

Mighty cool ride! You gonna use that heater?

[Jason in TX]

I don't think he'll snap his arm just yet with the giant crack in that head. Maybe when he goes to get it running, then watch out!

[guitar4u]

Yes already.
My wife says I have a compulsion disorder. I don't know what the hell she is talking about, but I just got back from Little dearborn with everything I need to get her fired up, so.....I gotta go back and work on the car some more. With fingers crossed, she should be running tonight. I got a lesson on setting the timing from the good guys at little dearborn. What a cool group of guys. If you have ever seen the barbershop part of Gran Torino, that was this bunch. They schooled me on the heavy 600wt oil for the tranny and rear-end, and the non detergent 30wt oil for the motor, so I got that.

I called a local auto body shop and she is going in on Monday. Should take a month or so. I don't like telling auto body guys to hurry.

My goal is to first get the car back to Roger so he can take those kids for a ride, and second, we have a 100th anniversary Parade thing going on here in Waconia in late August along with a couple car shows. My kids are looking forward to throwing candy at little kids from the rumble seat.

[Pilotdave]

You are having WAY too much fun! Which is just terrific. Enjoy the rehab - hope you have it running soon!!

[WTSHNN]

What does the "B" stand for in the middle of the door? Briggs?

-Tim

[Hitchhiker]

I wish my car was half that clean! good score.

[dean from bozeman]

Guitar4u, this is just an amazing story. For a guy like me who loves Model A's this is almost a story that is too good to be true. But life is like that at times. You find a great car, ask for advice, bring it home and "change gears" on what you will do with it, ideas about giving the "old kids" a ride, your kids will eventually throw candy from the rumble seat... This is all too cool.

Rusty Nelson and the guys at Little Dearborn are some of the best. There are a ton of other great Model A folks in Minnesota (Tom Wesenberg, John Alinder, et al.) who would be more than willing to give a helping hand, advice or help find that part. Your kids will see this helpfulness and interaction and they will learn tons about the good in people. What a great opportunity. And it all started at a garage sale...wow! Good for you and your family. Have fun.
Dean

[Tinker]

Crank starting how to. Others will have better tips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDqPuzC1SJE

[Gumpy]

good for you on your purchase....the car is now yours and its your choice what you do with it....before v8"s became popular the 4 banger could put out quite a bit of power....you might be surprized if you add a high compression head to that motor!

[Gumpy]

GREAT FIND....nice pictures.....enjoy it!!

[Dave27]

That is one sweet looking car your way further ahead than I was when I got mine. Seeing that makes me want a 2nd one like yours and I'm not even done with my first one yet.I used to be a rodder also. I had a 1969 512HP NOVA SS .But now I'm more into nastalgia Great find and story,hats off to ya.....Dave

[Jason in TX]

I know you mentioned carpet in the rumble seat. Just letting you know that they make a rubber mat that you can buy that is what was originally back there. Then you just plop it down, and done!

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by guitar4u

. . . They schooled me on the heavy 600wt oil for the tranny and rear-end, and the non detergent 30wt oil for the motor, so I got that. . .

I'd take a pass on that bit of advice.

[1930artdeco]

I think that you and your family will have great times in the car at parades and on tours. Congradulations on your purchase and I am drooling heavily over your car.

Mike

[AstroZombie]

Congrats on an awesome score!!! My daughter LOVES the rumble seat, I'm sure your kids will too!

[guitar4u]

HELP!

I got the head changed out yesterday. While the head was off, I turned the crank to make sure all the valves moved and the piston walls were not scored. I used a little oil on top of the pistons just to make sure they are lubed. After cleaning it off, I noticed the pistons had ".030" stamped on the top. So that would explain all the extra parts I got for the motor, it was rebuilt. I have a crank, cam, pistons, and misc water pumps, etc.

I checked the block over and didn't see any signs of the block cracking. I think the head was the only problem.

While doing the head, I also replaced all the worn points, cap, rotor, sparkplugs, coil wire, battery, etc.

I have learned the starting procedure. Well, I think I have. The left lever on the column all the way up, the right down most of the way, the choke pulled up, after turning the mixture screw all the way clockwise and turning out half a turn, Key on (In my case switch) and hit the started button.

When I first started it, she fired for a couple seconds and died. Enough to blow mice droppings and nut shells all over my garage from the tail pipe.

After setting the timing 3 times from the front pin (to get TDC) and working my way slowly to one side or the other, I cannot repeat the results.

I know a little about motors so I pulled the spark plug wire off the distributer and bent it so there was a little gap, and the nice blue spark was seen. So that eliminates the coil, coil wire, distributer, etc. The spark plugs are new.

My wife had surgery today so most of it has been spent with her, so not much time to trouble shoot. But at this point, it must be a fuel issue….right??I have done nothing to the carb, and most likely it is flooding it. I am going to do a couple things tonight.

1. Use my handy compression tester and turn the motor over. Just to make sure my thumb didn’t lie, or that it has a leak in the cylinder walls, gasket etc.


2. I bought a carb gasket kit at little dearborn, so I can pull the carb and check the bowl for varnish and the jet.

Also, last thing. I bought some rust eating stuff at the local auto parts store. The guy said they have used this many times with excellent results for cleaning fuel tanks. It comes in a 1 liter bottle. I know the right way is to remove the fuel tank and clean it that way, but I don’t have to tell you guys what a job that would be. Anyways, I did that, and let it dry over night, filled it with fuel, and after replacing the gasket on the sediment bowl, I have fuel to the carb. Is there any chance the rust remover ruined the fuel? When I drained it out, the liquid looks clear. Not rusty at all. So Roger must have drained the tank (He said he couldn’t remember, that was 1964).

My wife is resting comfy in bed now. It has been a several hours since she was released. She seems fine, so I can get my hands dirty again.

I have borrowed the neighbors 6 volt battery charger and have run it down 2 times and recharged already. I am off to pull the plugs and use my compression tester to see what I have across all four. If that doesn’t work, then I am pulling the carb. If I can’t fix that, I will be at little Dearborn in the morning for a new carb.

I still love Lucy, but I was hoping for an easier time. I know she wants to run, but I am missing something. I wish she could talk! “hay, you forgot to pull this lever” lol

Oh well, my Mother always told me to be weary of girls that give it up too easily. I don’t have that problem with Lucy.

Keep me in your prayers, cross your fingers, find a four leaf clover for me, or lick a leprechaun. I need some luck right now.

Thanks
Russ

PS.. Anybody in the twin cities area that knows these cars want to come help?? Free food, beer, and unlimited amounts of gratefulness. I can even pay a little if you need some cash for gas and time.

[Tinker]

Geezzz... I hope your wife is okay!

The car will be okay.

Give it a rest and go give your wife a smooch :]'

but if you can't sleep... Compression check came up as? Clogged exhaust? Timing?

Does sound like a fuel deal. You can always run a separate gravity tank.

[Hitchhiker]

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pull the carb of and rebuild it.

[Jason in TX]

Use this timing procedure. It is a guaranteed winner.

http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm

Put the pin at top dead center
Push the timing lever all the way up
Set the rotor to the point in the picture.

Make up for the backlash, so when you tighten the rotor, turn it clockwise to take the lash out and make sure it looks like Marco's picture.
Pay attention to where the rotor is with the timing l

[guitar4u]

SHE'S ALIVE! LUCY LIVES AGAIN!
I went out to pull the plugs and do a compression check. I pulled The first, then realized that my compression tester was too small for the large spark plug hole. I went ahead and pulled the second, just to see the condition and the a voice in my head said "you didn't gap those plugs..." I am so used to plugs being gap right out of the box, I never checked. So I went and got my gap tool and sure enough, .020. It should be around .040. So, I re-gapped them and put her back together. She started right up. Ran her for 5 minutes. She idles around 700 rpm, any lower and she will stall. So I just need to fine tune her.

There is a little story I can share. When I told my Father on Friday that I had bought a 1929 model A, he said that is the same car my Grandfather used to move his family from Arkansas to Utah in. I did remember as a kid hearing stories about how my Grandfather's car would barely run and that every night on their way to Utah, while the women made supper, he would take the bottom end off the motor and replace the main bearings with shoe leather. He did this every day for the entire trip. This was back in the late 30’s before my father was born.

The strange part is the tool I used to gap the plugs is a tool my Grandmother gave from my grandfather’s tool chest. I guess back in the mid 80’s when he died, I was just out of high school and on my second muscle car, so she figured I could use them. I got a small box full of vintage Snap On tools he had from his gas station days. My grand parents owned a Shell service station back in the 50’s on old highway 99 up in Selma California. He built my father’s 1950 ford race car and sponsored his races. If any of you old guys remember the 50’s scene up in the Fresno area, my Father and Grandfather had a lot to do with those cars flying around at 100mph+. His name was Clifford Parker. My Father is Gene Parker.

What gets me is the voice in my head. I don’t really remember my Grandfather other than he didn’t talk much, but that voice was something I have never heard before. It was really weird. I wasn’t even thinking plug gap. It just came out of nowhere. I have lost all my grandparents, my mother, a couple of good dogs, and I have never felt the thing I felt tonight. All I can say is that if it is you Grandpa, I need a lot more help. Please stick around.

So tomorrow will be changing all the fluids. 400wt in the tranny and the rear end. What should I use for the motor? I have been told that I should use 30wt non-detergent. Is that correct? Next get all the non-paintable items off. Radiator shield, door handles, headlights, etc.. She has an appointment with an auto body shop on Monday. The guy is retired and does it just to keep busy. He is local and only does show cars. She will be two tone Rose beige. It will take about a month, so I will be part hunting during that time. Any places you guys know around the Minnesota area would be helpful. I am also ordering a interior kit and top from LeBaron Bonney. I think I will just buy most of the chrome stuff new. The original stuff is worn, but I will keep it. I can get the bumpers and mounting hardware for less than $500. Radiator cover for $150 more. Door handles and misc will be another $500 or so. I need tires, tubes and liners. Where is the best place to buy them??

When I am done, I figure I will have about $10,000 in her. From what I have seen, this should be pretty good. She should be worth much more than that when I am done. Not that I will ever sell her. I just don’t like being upside down in anything.

To all you guys that have given me such good advice, thanks. I will keep posting more as she progresses. August is coming very quick, but I think now we can make it. I can’t wait to see Roger face when I pull up! Hope those “kids” fit in the back!

Thanks
Russ

PS… To all of you that licked a leprechaun for me, I hope you brushed you teeth after.

[guitar4u]

Oh, and just so you guys know. My wife had a very minor surgery. Female issues. They didn't have to cut her and just some minor pain. I guess her periods will be much better now. They were getting pretty rough on her. I spent most of the day with her, so I am not some jerk that doesn't care about his wife. Funny thing is when I got the car running tonight at 11:40 PM (I have very understanding neighbors), she felt good enough to come downstairs and take a look. When she saw me she just said, "I had no doubt you could get her running!" When I am glad one of us did. 1964 was a long time ago.

Anyways, good night. MILLER TIME!

[48Ratfink]

Great story,Glad You saw the light! Slow down on buying repro. parts When I first got My 31 Coupe I went nuts buying a lot of crap and found that I could fix most of the original stuff. Join a local club,They will be a valuable resource! Hope the Wifey is feeling better! Do keep Us posted.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree on SLOWING DOWN on buy repro parts. The repro instrument panel DOESN'T fit right and you can't get the two lower mounting screws in. The original radiator shell fits and looks much better than the repro. For bumper clamps you want the good ones from A&L. DO NOT buy the aluminum bumper clamps. They are junk and the stud pulled out of my friend's aluminum clamp before the bolt was even snug.

[Tom Wesenberg]

When people don't use antifreeze and allow the engine to freeze, the head seems to be the first to go, but you also want to check inside the valve chamber and along the bottom of the water jacket on the driver's side. My 28 came with a head that looked just like your's, but I was lucky that the head was the only crack. This picture shows an engine block I bought at an auction, and this isn't the only crack. This block would be good for a cutaway project, showing the working parts.

[guitar4u]

Tom,

You are local. Do you know of a good plating shop?

Russ

[guitar4u]

Also, I checked for leaks, milky white on the dip-stick and oil in the antifreeze. Negative on all accounts. Block is solid.

Russ

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by guitar4u

Tom,

You are local. Do you know of a good plating shop?

Russ

There's a plating shop in Forest Lake that does nice work. As is the case will all plating shops today, they are not cheap.

If you prep your own parts you can save some money, but proper prep work is a lot of work, and you need the right sanders and buffers.

[Tinker]

I agree with the statements made about buying repo parts right away. Been there, done that. Sometimes you have to have some parts to complete your project.

Snyders Plug adapter for your compression checker. Just need one @ $7.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/3799

[1930artdeco]

Russ,

The great thing for you is that you are in the midwest. That place just seems to ooze model a parts. Stick with the originals if at all possible and spend the money to refurbish them as they will fit and feel and work better than 90% of the repros.

Also, check and mark your calender for two important dates: Hershey, Pa which is in Oct? and Turlock, Ca which is the last weekend in Jan. rain or shine. So you can make some road trips and support the local economies.

Mike

[Tom Wesenberg]

Iola, Wisconsin is also a good swap meet in July.

[sturgis 39]

There are four street rod shops in a town of 60,000 people. This is hard to believe. Old Fords are in trouble. It is going to be hard to find an original unmolested Ford in a few years and they will bring more money than a street rod Ford. When the advertisement says mustang two, sbc,sbf, automatic, 9 inch and air conditioning I am not interested. I like hot rods but not street rods. I think it is cool to modify the stock engine and gearing and make a hot rod. Street rods have wax and polish in the trunk and hot rods have tools in the trunk. That is what some one told me.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by fordgarage

Tom,
Why not just braze that crack up?

I may try that since the block has a new babbit job.

[sturgis 39]

I think I would buy a new high compression head. There might be a crack in the block too. You can buy a pressure tester for model "A" blocks pretty cheap to test for cracks. I made my own at machine shop class and you can build one with a drill press and some flat metal. The one I made requires a good head on the block. I think brazing the head might require the head to be machined or at least tested for flatness, What do you think Tom?

[guitar4u]

Hi guys,

Here is a before and after of the head I used, and some pictures of me and my Daugher Lindsay driving her yesterday. Fun little car. A bit of a lope, but I bet that is from the tires. She sat on them for 45 years. Tranny shifts fine.

[Tinker]

Nice!

[Dave27]

SWEET car!!!!! Coaker tires sold me some great looking Firestones Best service I have ever recieved. I ordered them in the morning when I got to work the next day when I got home from work all 5 tires,tubes,spoke protectors were on my doorstep.Could not believe it.... Here's a link just incase,I just did a quick lookup I think these are the ones I got.
http://www.cokertire.com/
http://store.cokertire.com/475-500-1...wall-tire.html

[guitar4u]

UPDATE...

Lucy is in the body shop. I need to decide on the color. Any ideas?

Also, I need a spring base for the rumble seat. Anybody know where I can find one?

I just got back from the DMV and no issues with getting her legal. I supplied a Transfer of ownership, Statement of facts, and 4 pictures of the car. The DMV is sending me the title with the "Pioneer" plates and they issued me a 60 day permit to drive her.

Roger stated on the statement of facts that he bought the car in 1962 and it was not running back then. He never did get her running. She she hasn't seen the road since the late 50's at best.

Looks like we will make the 100th Carver county fair.

Russ

[Tinker]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Your moving right along.

Model A color chart. Copra or Chicle Drab are nice. You might want something more colorful.

http://crankster.110mb.com/colors.htm

[1930artdeco]

I think it is the Ford garage that has a picture of a 31 that you can change the color combinations for your year. It will at least give you an idea what the cat will look like.

Mike

[guitar4u]

I am leaning to red and black with tan interior and top. Something like this..

I know it is not a 29 color, but they are wayy too dark. .

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's Marco's color change chart for his 1930 Delux Roadster.

http://www.abarnyard.com/roadster/co...orchange.shtml

There are several BEAUTIFUL original 28 and 29 colors that aren't too dark.

Gary Karr's Tudor and Dave Lopes' 28 Phaeton are two cars that come to mind with BEAUTIFUL original paint colors.

[Tinker]

If you like red you could use vermillon red. It's bright.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by guitar4u

I am leaning to red and black with tan interior and top. Something like this..

I know it is not a 29 color, but they are wayy too dark. .

Here is another version of authentic Reds, --albeit not 1929 colors however they are authentic Commercial colors, ....Rubelite and Tampa.

.

[white64]

dogoneit! I hate it when a neat story just abruptly ends like this one did!

[wrndln]

Maybe I can add a little to the story. I moved the 29 sports coupe from the sellers place in Minneapolis to Russ' home about 20 miles west of Minneapolis. He started to get it restored, but I believe he kind of lost interest or from lack of money. The last thing I noticed, was Russ had placed the car on Craigslist to sell ($6000). The listing said he had nearly all the bodywork done at a shop and it mostly just needed the final finish done. I don't know if it was really ready to paint or other work was required before painting it. I don't think the upholstery, top, glass were purchased or installed. The car was in decent condition, but not in very good original condition. It looked like the previous owner(s) had done some amateur restoring on the car that wasn't all that good. I tried to email Russ about 9 or 10 months ago concerning the car, but received no answer. It sounded like he may have moved onto other interests. I would assume he sold the car to someone, but really don't know. I doubt Russ reads or frequents Fordbarn as the A is probably gone, but really don't know. If he does read Fordbarn, Russ, feel free to confirm of refute what I have posted in the message.
Rusty Nelson

[700rpm]

I just sent him an email. Maybe we'll find out. People's lives can change unexpectedly, and what we think is going to happen can get set aside or abandoned altogether. I hope the car got to a good restorer if Russ had to give it up. It was/is too nice a car to lose to a destroyer.

[white64]

"destroyer" update! Trying to save this thrown away 31 body, and with help from you guys... It's getting close... The body measurements were all waaay off, you guys sent me the right ones.
The chop was terrible, I'm going to rechop it... (sorry) the back was cut off and poorly welded back on in some prevous decade ... square tube was actually used to fill the gap, which also held the body about 1.5 inches too wide.. I removed the tube and filled the gap with 18g... the floor had been cut out... the quarter patches I got from Mn had to be patched (yes I have patches on the patches) and I haven't decided whether to leave the welds showing as proof I didn't cut up a classic or not... they had used flat galv to fill the roof, I'm going to put wood back in thetop... new subframes, crossmembers and floors and over $1200 in panels have been added. So maybe you're right; this coupe WAS destroyed, but it will be on the road again... maybe I'll name it "Patches" and paint that name on a corner of the trunk.
But it's all ford! with the engine being the newest ford part. Thanks again Walt!

[jkcrosson]

Originally Posted by white64

"destroyer" update! Trying to save this thrown away 31 body, and with help from you guys... It's getting close... The body measurements were all waaay off, you guys sent me the right ones.
The chop was terrible, I'm going to rechop it... (sorry) the back was cut off and poorly welded back on in some prevous decade ... square tube was actually used to fill the gap, which also held the body about 1.5 inches too wide.. I removed the tube and filled the gap with 18g... the floor had been cut out... the quarter patches I got from Mn had to be patched (yes I have patches on the patches) and I haven't decided whether to leave the welds showing as proof I didn't cut up a classic or not... they had used flat galv to fill the roof, I'm going to put wood back in thetop... new subframes, crossmembers and floors and over $1200 in panels have been added. So maybe you're right; this coupe WAS destroyed, but it will be on the road again... maybe I'll name it "Patches" and paint that name on a corner of the trunk.
But it's all ford! with the engine being the newest ford part. Thanks again Walt!

Did we jump topics or did I miss something? I could've miss it, I'm on flu medication.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by jkcrosson

Did we jump topics or did I miss something? I could've miss it, I'm on flu medication.

I think that post was a red herring.

[dumb person]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

I think that post was a red herring.

Might have been someone showing appreciation for someone giving him the measurements for what a car should have started like.

[white64]

In hindisght it was a post hijack, I suppose I over-reacted to the "destroyer" comment! JEESUM... I gottah lighten up a litte... HOLIDAY STRESS!?!

But with the input from the guys here it's looking so much better!!!

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by white64

In hindisght it was a post hijack, I suppose I over-reacted to the "destroyer" comment! JEESUM... I gottah lighten up a litte... HOLIDAY STRESS!?!

But with the input from the guys here it's looking so much better!!!

I'm not a rodder, but I would not qualify what you are doing to that coupe as "destroying". It's more like restoring a rod, and it looks like you're doing a great job. I actually like that look! It's classic. My use of "destroyer" was specifically about the topic car, which was/is too complete and original to be rodded.