New to me '35 Fordor

[ndnchf]

Yesterday I brought home this '35 Fordor. It drives really nice, but needs a few things - generator is not charging, brake adjustment, fluid changes, etc.

I'm primarilly a model A guy, but have had a lot of antique cars and motorcycles over the last 50 years. But this is my first flathead V8. I have a lot to learn!

[mercman from oz]

ndnchf congratulations. You won't be disappointed.
That 35 Ford Deluxe Fordor Touring Sedan looks a beauty.

[Zeke3]

Congratulations on your new acquisition, that is a great looking sedan.

[ndnchf]

Thanks guys. Its an older restoration, but still shows pretty well. It has the original radio too.

[civilwarlife]

Great car. Keep posting.

[mercman from oz]

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The original radio in this great new acquisition

[mercman from oz]

A bit of Trivia for 1935 and 1936 Ford Fans.
Did you know that the Australian & North American 1935/1936 Ford Fordor Touring Sedans are different at the rear?
Check out this comparison shot of an Australian 1935 Ford and a North American (ex New Zealand) 1936 Ford.
Notice that the Trunks are lower on the Australian models.
I have no idea why Australia chose to make it different?

[danliveshere]

Thanks for sharing Trevor. Yet another piece of 35/36 information we love to hear about! Obviously then our trunk lid will be different to the US version too. I wonder if the rear section of the touring sedan body was pressed in Canada before shipping to Australia?

[TonyM]

nice

[ndnchf]

An interesting tidbit - thanks. That reminds me of a question I had the other day. What is the difference between a deluxe fordor sedan and a touring fordor sedan? I saw them listed as available models in 1935 (as well as the fordor standard sedan).
Thanks, Steve

[mercman from oz]

This 1935 Ford Fordor Touring Sedan was assembled in New Zealand with parts shipped from Canada.
It has the high trunk area like all USA and Canadian 1935 and 1936 Ford Touring Sedans have.
Not sure about the interchangeability of the two Trunk Lids?
Notice that the licence Plate reads TRU-35

[mercman from oz]

By comparison, this is the Australian 1935 Ford Deluxe Fordor Touring Sedan.
Notice the lower Trunk extension than on the American bodied Green 1935 Ford pictured above.

[mercman from oz]

To answer ndnchf's question, the Touring Sedans have the outside Trunks while the regular Sedans have a flat back.
The Deluxe models have extras like that Chrome Trim on the Running boards plus Chrome Plated Windscreen Frame plus extras inside the cabin.
They also had a painted Grille..

[mercman from oz]

1935 Ford Deluxe Fordor Sedan.
Tudor Sedans were never sold in Australia, which is a pity.

[corvette8n]

Nice looking car, enjoy.

[ndnchf]

I got the first problem resolved this morning - the generator was not charging. It had some odd electronic cutout on the generator. I replaced that with one of my refurbished original Ford cutouts and polarized the generator. Its working just fine now 😀

[Planojc]

Great looking car.

[Ol' Ron]

Try to find an old Clytons motor manual of the late 30/40s tis should answer MOST of your questions and is a great help.
Gramps

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

I got the first problem resolved this morning - the generator was not charging. It had some odd electronic cutout on the generator. I replaced that with one of my refurbished original Ford cutouts and polarized the generator. Its working just fine now ��

[KiWinUS]

Beautiful. Enjoy.

[Model51]

Nice car! Hope you consider joining the Northern Virginia Regional Group of the Early Ford V8 Club www.nvrg.org. We have members in Fredericksburg and lots of folks with experience on 1935 Fords and a good source of information for troubleshooting and even parts. We have monthly meetings in Fairfax and one member drives up from Fredericksburg so you could carpool.

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by Model51

Nice car! Hope you consider joining the Northern Virginia Regional Group of the Early Ford V8 Club www.nvrg.org. We have members in Fredericksburg and lots of folks with experience on 1935 Fords and a good source of information for troubleshooting and even parts. We have monthly meetings in Fairfax and one member drives up from Fredericksburg so you could carpool.

Thanks for the invite. I think you are referring to Terry who drives up from Fredericksburg. He and I are old friends.
Steve

[Model51]

Steve,
You are correct. Terry is a great guy. It would be great to have you join us. They guys in the club have been a great help to me with my 1935 truck.
Dave

[ndnchf]

Mechanucal brake question. The car stops very well and straight, no pulling, but has some excess pedal travel. So brake adjustent is on my to-do list. I looked at the backing plates expecting to see a protruding adjuster like my model A has. But no, just the threaded hole. All 4 wheels are this way. Can anyone explain this? Was it some kind of modifcation? Internal self adjusters?

[Model51]

Like you, I would expect to find a square adjuster shaft protruding from the backing plate. I guess you may have to take on wheel and brake drum off to see what you have.

[petehoovie]

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Originally Posted by ndnchf

Mechanucal brake question. The car stops very well and straight, no pulling, but has some excess pedal travel. So brake adjustent is on my to-do list. I looked at the backing plates expecting to see a protruding adjuster like my model A has. But no, just the threaded hole. All 4 wheels are this way. Can anyone explain this? Was it some kind of modifcation? Internal self adjusters?

[alanwoodieman]

brake shoe equalizers?

[ndnchf]

I'm wondering if somebody left the adjusting wedges out because the new brake linings were too thick to get the drums on. Seems rather extreme and not consistent with overall quality of the car. Regardless, the car stops very well.

[V8ER]

It is highly likely that the car is equipped with "floaters" or equalizers, which is why it stops so well.

[Seth Swoboda]

Nice car. I have a Model A as well. You'll find out the early V8's are a much nicer driving car and more enjoyable than the Model A's. Although I like them both.

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by V8ER

It is highly likely that the car is equipped with "floaters" or equalizers, which is why it stops so well.

That may be the case, But I have Ted's floaters on the front of my model A. It still has adjusters, they are just a little different. This car has none.

[Brian]

There is a style of aftermarket floater conversion that uses a star wheel adjuster accessible through that hole the square adjustment protruded from

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by Brian

There is a style of aftermarket floater conversion that uses a star wheel adjuster accessible through that hole the square adjustment protruded from

Someone else mentioned the same thing to me last night. I'll check it out tonight. I hope that is the case, Do you know who made them? - thanks.

Steve

[Terry,OH]

The original style adjusters are removed for the installation of brake equalizers AKA Floaters. simple one or two notch adjustment should bring the pedal higher.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The original style adjusters are removed for the installation of brake equalizers AKA Floaters. simple one or two notch adjustment should bring the pedal higher.

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The original style adjusters are removed for the installation of brake equalizers AKA Floaters. simple one or two notch adjustment should bring the pedal higher.

Excellent - thanks for the instructions 😀

[ndnchf]

Indeed it does have floaters and star type adjusters in place of the wedges. I got the fronts adjusted tonight. Tomorrow I'll work on the rear. Thanks guys.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

Indeed it does have floaters and star type adjusters in place of the wedges. I got the fronts adjusted tonight. Tomorrow I'll work on the rear. Thanks guys.

[Dennisfly]

Steve,


Nice looking car. I too have a Model A and a 35 and live at Lake Anna. I've had the 35 for about a year. If you haven't already seen it, here is an interesting video about another Virginia 1935: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TGe97L7RUs&t=90s Maybe we could meet for coffee sometime.


Dennis

[ndnchf]

Hi Dennis - sure, I'd love to get together. I'll send you a PM.

I got the brakes adjusted last night. I'll test drive it tomorrow and make final adjustments.

[ndnchf]

I dug through my spare parts and have everything needed to rebuild this May 1935 date code generator for the car. I already checked it on my test stand, so I know its good. But a fresh rebuild will make it good for many years to come.

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by Dennisfly

Steve,

If you haven't already seen it, here is an interesting video about another Virginia 1935: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TGe97L7RUs&t=90s Maybe we could meet for coffee sometime.


Dennis

That's a great video, beautiful car. I learned quite a few things from it. Thanks.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

I dug through my spare parts and have everything needed to rebuild this May 1935 date code generator for the car. I already checked it on my test stand, so I know its good. But a fresh rebuild will make it good for many years to come.

[Model51]

Dennisfly - The voice on the video is the owner of the 1935 being featured, Tommy Harper who lives in Bedford, VA. Tommy did an amazing restoration on his car. A couple of us helped him fix the final few items he needed for a virtually perfect car. He's been a member of the Northern Virginia Regional Group of the Early Ford V8 Club. Steve just joined us, hope you consider it too.
Dave

[ndnchf]

I got my brakes adjusted, wow what a difference. It stops like a new car. The parking brake works now too.

Another question - does anyone make correct 1935 lower rubber hood corners? I see 1932-34 and 1936 at Third Gen and Drake. It seems 35 uses the same front rubber as '34, but the rear is different. I dont have a body parts manual, but I imagine it is a different part number.

Thanks,
Steve

[ndnchf]

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I got what I believe is the original engine back to my garage yesterday. It looks to have been rebuilt at some time in the not too distant past. It turns over smoothly and the valves all move. Based on the casting date tag, the heads appear to be post war replacements. The plugs look pretty good too.

I can find no numbers on it. What do you think? I sprayed fogging oil in the cylinders to keep it happy for the time being.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

I got what I believe is the original engine back to my garage yesterday. It looks to have been rebuilt at some time in the not too distant past. It turns over smoothly and the valves all move. Based on the casting date tag, the heads appear to be post war replacements. The plugs look pretty good too.

I can find no numbers on it. What do you think? I sprayed fogging oil in the cylinders to keep it happy for the time being.

[ndnchf]

I spent several hours today washing, polishing and waxing the 1935 Ford Deluxe Touring car. I've never been one to give my cars pet names, but while spiffing her up today, she called out to me. I'm calling her "Miss Daisy".

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

I spent several hours today washing, polishing and waxing the 1935 Ford Deluxe Touring car. I've never been one to give my cars pet names, but while spiffing her up today, she called out to me. I'm calling "Miss Daisy".

[Brian]

"I can find no numbers on it. What do you think? I sprayed fogging oil in the cylinders to keep it happy for the time being".

I'll tell you what I think...the valve springs are still painted, so they haven't done a big mileage. The valley is clean. This would lead me to believe someone has recently performed work of some description to that engine, which included replacing those springs....

[deuce lover]

Take a pic of the front deck of the block since you have the intake off. Sometimes they have letters stamped near the front of the deck between the head and where the intake bolts on.Also we can see if its a vented block.

[38 coupe]

Post pictures inside the valley of the push rod area and of the front of the valley, that will show ventilated 1935-1936 block or earlier non-ventilated block.
If you really want a positive identification pull the oil pan and measure between the main bearing cap retaining studs. The poured bearing motors have smaller main bearing journals and the bearing caps are narrower than the ones in the insert main bearing motors.

[ndnchf]

Ive got the manifold loosely bolted on and it tucked in the corner right now. But here a photo from the other day. It has a large down tube at the forward passenger side. I'll pull it our later in the week and get closer photos.

[38 coupe]

Tube at the front of the valley means 1935-1936 engine block.
Last identifying feature: distance between draft on oil pan and front main bearing area of oil pan. The insert main motors, "LB" engines, have larger diameter main bearings with wider main bearing caps. The front of the oil pan is a bit wider to clear the larger main bearing caps. The space between the crankcase vent on the oil pan is much smaller on the LB motors, see picture for comparison with the insert motor pan on the left and the Babbitt motor pan on the right.

[ndnchf]

I pulled it out and got some pics of the front of the oil pan. Im not sure which it is, the difference is subtle.

[38 coupe]

Based on the first picture where you can see all the way passed the crankcase vent I'm guessing it is a Babbitt motor. That isn't necessary a bad thing as they make the same power as the same year insert motor and with good care last a long time.

[ndnchf]

Ok, thanks. FWIW, I just read in the '35-36 book that the oil drain plug was moved from the side to the center in Feb/March of '36 to accomadate a new oil pump. This has the center drain plug.