The Ford Barn

larry harding · 09-25-2015, 06:08 PM

1. I removed my carb to clean and put in new gaskets. the fuel line from the sediment bowl to the carb had only a ball of cotton string behind the brass nuts to seal it. I've seen this done for packing a few times over the years, but surely this is not factory. what should I use , some type of ferrule or maybe an o ring?
2 . my doors must have come from a junk yard where they just torched off the inner flap instead of unbolting them. i've got two decent doors needing a little work, but useable. i'm not going for a show car and am considering just welding on a piece of strap or the missing pieces rather than putting on new expensive hinges. a good weld with some grinding and sanding won't even be noticeable. any body ever do something like this?
3. I am thinking about using flat head bolts with nuts and lock washers rather than trying to rivet the hinges back to the door. any comments on this?

Tom Wesenberg · 09-25-2015, 07:32 PM

Most fuel lines are either flare fit or use a ferrule. A picture of the fittings would also help. The carb should have a brass ferrule, and the repro nuts that have the ferrule attached take a lot of force to properly seat and snap the ferrule off the nut.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 09-25-2015, 07:36 PM

1) yes, a ferrule soldered to the steel fuel line is best.

2) anything is doable with perseverance and skill. If you believe you can do it, then go for it. Most of us honestly have no idea what your resources and/or skills are.

3) knowing what bodystyle you have would help us answer more precisely. Is there any reason why you are choosing to 'half-do' your project instead of taking a little extra time to do the job correctly?

BTW, Welcome to Fordbarn!

larry harding · 09-26-2015, 06:54 AM

what I have is a 30 pickup that is really rough. I just want to make it decent and drivable. I don't want to put more $ money and time in it than it would be worth when finished. I would have to replace almost every piece of sheet metal that is available and that is not counting mechanical and other problems I will probably encounter.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 09-26-2015, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry harding

what I have is a 30 pickup that is really rough. I just want to make it decent and drivable.I don't want to put more $ money and time in it than it would be worth when finished. I would have to replace almost every piece of sheet metal that is available and that is not counting mechanical and other problems I will probably encounter.

You might as well stop right now because THAT ain't gonna happen.

katy · 09-26-2015, 10:23 AM

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Ditto

larry harding · 09-26-2015, 11:22 AM

what ain't going to happen? I don't think a sane person would have bought a project in the condition of mine for a complete restoration, but it can be a decent driveable rat.

1930artdeco · 09-26-2015, 11:35 AM

You are right a sane person would not have. But you and the rest of us are not sane. What I think they are saying is that no matter what you do you never will get your money back. Yes the parts are not that expensive but I assume your time is. There is a thread here about what people started with for a resto. At least you have a complete truck - more or less.

Since you are going for the rat rod, you may just want to arrest any deterioration of the body and focus just on the mechanicals. I may be mistaken but the door hinges should just be screwed to the door and post wood. As for the the carb Tom and Brent answered that.

Mike

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 09-26-2015, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry harding

what ain't going to happen? I don't think a sane person would have bought a project in the condition of mine for a complete restoration, but it can be a decent driveable rat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry harding

what I have is a 30 pickup that is really rough. I just want to make it decent and drivable. I don't want to put more $ money and time in it than it would be worth when finished. I would have to replace almost every piece of sheet metal that is available and that is not counting mechanical and other problems I will probably encounter.

So you tell me, what is the 'market price' on a "Rat"?

YOU are the one one that stated you do not want to spend more on it than what it is worth. If you replace all of the sheetmetal, -and then do the mechanical repairs, you still have a "rat" when you are finished. Doing all of what you described and having less in it (your labor plus parts) than it will be worth 'ain't gonna happen' in my professional opinion.

stewwolfe · 09-26-2015, 02:19 PM

Keeping our Model A's on the road entails spending more money than we will ever get back if we sell them. That said, I've found that every cent I spent on my cars is worth it due to the enjoyment I (and others) have gotten, and continue to get, out of my cars. This is not a hobby for the faint of heart or a person who is looking to make a profit. Spend what you think you should for entertainment and enjoyment and you will profit.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Tom Wesenberg · 09-26-2015, 06:28 PM

Rough doesn't mean the same as "rat", which means to chop up and make it look as goofy as possible. I've seen some cars left rough but very drivable, and a guy wouldn't have to spend a lot for one like that, if the engine is half good.

dsarge390 · 09-26-2015, 08:43 PM

Welcome to the barn, Larry.
Honestly, you have to have a goal in mind before beginning any restoration. What is the end product you are trying to achieve? What is your true budget? How are your skills involving the necessary repairs? All of these need to be addressed so you dont end up over your head, and lose interest in the P/U.
1. Post some pictures: the people here on this website are a great wealth of knowledge, they will be more than happy to lend advice, or point you to professionals. Sometimes paying a shop/builder/restorer a sum of money once, will be well worth it.
2. Join a local Model A or Car Club. Having a group of friends that are local, is a great resource.
3. A good place to work. Set aside an area that is solely for the project. If all of the kids bicycles, and wife's treadmill, etc. are going to be in the way then find a better spot. Trust me, it's only going to lead to problems.
4. Include specialty tools into your budget. MIG welders, sanders, droplights, etc. will be needed. See "find local car club". Some people are willing to loan you tools/jigs.
I have a 30 Closed Cab P/U that's almost complete. Buy the door hinges. Good luck, and we are here to help.

larry harding · 09-27-2015, 08:39 AM

I went to a guy's house yesterday who had two restored a's and one under construction. the two restored a's had the hinges bolted to the door and the one being worked on had rivets, so they must have done it either way depending on body style, year or maybe the restorer just went with bolts. the catalogs list screws for this but I don't know if they had threaded plates on some models or used nuts. maybe someone can clear this up for me.
this ain't my first rodeo having fooled with antique motorcycles and a few cars over the years. I have a pretty well equipped shop and a reasonable amount of skill. I have to keep convincing myself that the money spent on my projects for me entertainment kind of like going to disneyworld to others. no way I am going to show a profit, but it is what I like doing.

09-25-2015, 06:08 PM	#1
larry harding Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: western n.c. Posts: 393	new guy more questions 1. I removed my carb to clean and put in new gaskets. the fuel line from the sediment bowl to the carb had only a ball of cotton string behind the brass nuts to seal it. I've seen this done for packing a few times over the years, but surely this is not factory. what should I use , some type of ferrule or maybe an o ring? 2 . my doors must have come from a junk yard where they just torched off the inner flap instead of unbolting them. i've got two decent doors needing a little work, but useable. i'm not going for a show car and am considering just welding on a piece of strap or the missing pieces rather than putting on new expensive hinges. a good weld with some grinding and sanding won't even be noticeable. any body ever do something like this? 3. I am thinking about using flat head bolts with nuts and lock washers rather than trying to rivet the hinges back to the door. any comments on this?

09-25-2015, 07:32 PM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: new guy more questions Most fuel lines are either flare fit or use a ferrule. A picture of the fittings would also help. The carb should have a brass ferrule, and the repro nuts that have the ferrule attached take a lot of force to properly seat and snap the ferrule off the nut.

09-25-2015, 07:36 PM	#3
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,513	Re: new guy more questions 1) yes, a ferrule soldered to the steel fuel line is best. 2) anything is doable with perseverance and skill. If you believe you can do it, then go for it. Most of us honestly have no idea what your resources and/or skills are. 3) knowing what bodystyle you have would help us answer more precisely. Is there any reason why you are choosing to 'half-do' your project instead of taking a little extra time to do the job correctly? BTW, Welcome to Fordbarn! __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

09-26-2015, 06:54 AM	#4
larry harding Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: western n.c. Posts: 393	Re: new guy more questions what I have is a 30 pickup that is really rough. I just want to make it decent and drivable. I don't want to put more $ money and time in it than it would be worth when finished. I would have to replace almost every piece of sheet metal that is available and that is not counting mechanical and other problems I will probably encounter.

09-26-2015, 10:23 AM	#6
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 5,046	Re: new guy more questions Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Ditto __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

09-26-2015, 11:22 AM	#7
larry harding Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: western n.c. Posts: 393	Re: new guy more questions what ain't going to happen? I don't think a sane person would have bought a project in the condition of mine for a complete restoration, but it can be a decent driveable rat.

09-26-2015, 11:35 AM	#8
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,552	Re: new guy more questions You are right a sane person would not have. But you and the rest of us are not sane. What I think they are saying is that no matter what you do you never will get your money back. Yes the parts are not that expensive but I assume your time is. There is a thread here about what people started with for a resto. At least you have a complete truck - more or less. Since you are going for the rat rod, you may just want to arrest any deterioration of the body and focus just on the mechanicals. I may be mistaken but the door hinges should just be screwed to the door and post wood. As for the the carb Tom and Brent answered that. Mike __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

09-26-2015, 02:19 PM	#10
stewwolfe Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: North Chesterfield, VA Posts: 299	Re: new guy more questions Keeping our Model A's on the road entails spending more money than we will ever get back if we sell them. That said, I've found that every cent I spent on my cars is worth it due to the enjoyment I (and others) have gotten, and continue to get, out of my cars. This is not a hobby for the faint of heart or a person who is looking to make a profit. Spend what you think you should for entertainment and enjoyment and you will profit. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk __________________ '31 40B '31 68C

09-26-2015, 06:28 PM	#11
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: new guy more questions Rough doesn't mean the same as "rat", which means to chop up and make it look as goofy as possible. I've seen some cars left rough but very drivable, and a guy wouldn't have to spend a lot for one like that, if the engine is half good.

09-26-2015, 08:43 PM	#12
dsarge390 Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 55	Re: new guy more questions Welcome to the barn, Larry. Honestly, you have to have a goal in mind before beginning any restoration. What is the end product you are trying to achieve? What is your true budget? How are your skills involving the necessary repairs? All of these need to be addressed so you dont end up over your head, and lose interest in the P/U. 1. Post some pictures: the people here on this website are a great wealth of knowledge, they will be more than happy to lend advice, or point you to professionals. Sometimes paying a shop/builder/restorer a sum of money once, will be well worth it. 2. Join a local Model A or Car Club. Having a group of friends that are local, is a great resource. 3. A good place to work. Set aside an area that is solely for the project. If all of the kids bicycles, and wife's treadmill, etc. are going to be in the way then find a better spot. Trust me, it's only going to lead to problems. 4. Include specialty tools into your budget. MIG welders, sanders, droplights, etc. will be needed. See "find local car club". Some people are willing to loan you tools/jigs. I have a 30 Closed Cab P/U that's almost complete. Buy the door hinges. Good luck, and we are here to help.

09-27-2015, 08:39 AM	#13
larry harding Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: western n.c. Posts: 393	Re: new guy more questions I went to a guy's house yesterday who had two restored a's and one under construction. the two restored a's had the hinges bolted to the door and the one being worked on had rivets, so they must have done it either way depending on body style, year or maybe the restorer just went with bolts. the catalogs list screws for this but I don't know if they had threaded plates on some models or used nuts. maybe someone can clear this up for me. this ain't my first rodeo having fooled with antique motorcycles and a few cars over the years. I have a pretty well equipped shop and a reasonable amount of skill. I have to keep convincing myself that the money spent on my projects for me entertainment kind of like going to disneyworld to others. no way I am going to show a profit, but it is what I like doing.