Two Shock Absorber Question

[Chuck Dempsey]

If I could only afford, for now, two shocks on my '29 Tudor, where should they go? 1-front, 1-back? Two-front? Two-back? Or am I just asking for trouble by only having two?

Thanks

[J Franklin]

2 on the rear. Then get 2 more for the front!

[updraught]

Two for the front.

These are more difficult to fit up with an alternative. Also, the front is more critical for ride.

You can use MGB or tube on the back, or maybe even friction. Not so critical.

[Oldbluoval]

The car will rock and bounce more without rear shocks
It will not follow steering and wander on rougher roads without fronts
Just imho

[Fred A]

Chuck, if you are asking for a judgement, what about clarifying. What two shocks? Do you not have access to swap meets? Are you going for the gold standard shocks that are truly investment grade? Shocks are a great example of buying the best cores and ratcheting up as you find better. I would never have considered running a pair of shocks when living in a world where Model A shocks are abundant. Good for Me? I hear it all the time. Perhaps one of very few advantages living in a "peoples's republic".This morning I was at the Long Beach performance meet and found myself examining Houdaille shocks. With such a habit, I found only poor examples, but that saves me a reputation as a hoarder. The common price for what I have found to be usable shocks, $5 to $20. $5 if you take the pile. Obviously rebuilt shocks, which I find once a decade will be much more. Lots of crap quality import are not considered. Don't expect to score useable shocks every time, but why ignore a resource? Good Luck: Fred A

[Chuck Dempsey]

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Thanks Fred. I've heard only good things about Stipe shocks, except the price.... So, being a Poor Pensioner, I'm thinking Santa can bring me two for Christmas this year, two next year.

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by Fred A

Chuck, if you are asking for a judgement, what about clarifying. What two shocks? Do you not have access to swap meets? Are you going for the gold standard shocks that are truly investment grade? Shocks are a great example of buying the best cores and ratcheting up as you find better. I would never have considered running a pair of shocks when living in a world where Model A shocks are abundant. Good for Me? I hear it all the time. Perhaps one of very few advantages living in a "peoples's republic".This morning I was at the Long Beach performance meet and found myself examining Houdaille shocks. With such a habit, I found only poor examples, but that saves me a reputation as a hoarder. The common price for what I have found to be usable shocks, $5 to $20. $5 if you take the pile. Obviously rebuilt shocks, which I find once a decade will be much more. Lots of crap quality import are not considered. Don't expect to score useable shocks every time, but why ignore a resource? Good Luck: Fred A

That was not the question he asked. It also must be understood that each of us have access to different resources.

[Fred A]

If I were a poor pensioner, sure wouldn't blow that kind of money on the high end shocks while riding for possible years on none. Like waiting for caviar while my family is hungry. I vote for the rear. Seen old Fords bounce the rear wheels off the ground after a bump. The appearance of a dangerous old car on the road reflects on us all out here. Good Luck Chuck: Fred A

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

This debate could go on forever, ...and on many levels. It is my opinion that the purpose of the shock is to control the movement of that wheel. Having shocks mounted on the front allows for more control of the front wheels. It is important to keep the front wheel & tire under control for steering control and for safe braking. A tire that is bouncing is not able to steer well nor brake well.

This also needs to be understood from another perspective in my opinion. Just because someone considers themselves as a poor pensioner is not a good excuse for doing something that could be considered unsafe. The lack of shock absorber IMO is really no different than a tire that is rotted and a potential for a blow-out, -or the same as having a non-working brake, -or an unsafe steering system. None of of would ever feel it is prudent to safely drive our Model-As with only the rear or front brakes operational. It is my position that if someone cannot afford to have a safe Model-A to drive, they should only use it for enjoyment in the parked position.

[rotorwrench]

I drove a car with no shocks for a while. The only thing that saved me was the fact that the springs were shot too. The only suspension was the air in the tires. Needless to say, the car literally rode like a lumber wagon.

I agree with Brent. The steering end of the car is the most important end. Both ends should have good shocks and springs to be safe so I'd recommend at least looking for a set of friction shocks first so a person could have all four corners running stable until a set of originals types can be procured. Save money by learning how to overhaul them and use originals instead of the high dollar reproductions.

To me, some things can end up being a liability for recommendations like this. It's like asking whether to fix the front brakes or the rear brakes. I just can't give a person a recommendation on stuff like this and feel OK with it. Safety first is something I've lived with for most of my working life so I'm sticking by that motto.

[NZ28ModelA]

I agree with Brent, if its going to be front or rear, it should be front..

My 28 Roadster pickup came to me with no shocks and I drove it like that for three years before I purchased a late model aftermarket shock kit from Snyders.

I got frustrated with the pickup ducking and diving with every pothole and dip in the road. I presumed it was just the way the older cars were. But after i fitted the front shocks i am super happy with the improvements to the steering and ride quality.

I am still to fit the rears, i see I have to drill the chassis and disassemble the rear brakes to attach the brackets.

Steve

[Hotrodfil]

I'd go front and MGB lever on the rear. It's what I ran on my Tourer for years until I trialled the new Rotoshims.

www.rotoshim.com

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

This debate could go on forever, ...and on many levels. It is my opinion that the purpose of the shock is to control the movement of that wheel. Having shocks mounted on the front allows for more control of the front wheels. It is important to keep the front wheel & tire under control for steering control and for safe braking. A tire that is bouncing is not able to steer well nor brake well.

This also needs to be understood from another perspective in my opinion. Just because someone considers themselves as a poor pensioner is not a good excuse for doing something that could be considered unsafe. The lack of shock absorber IMO is really no different than a tire that is rotted and a potential for a blow-out, -or the same as having a non-working brake, -or an unsafe steering system. None of of would ever feel it is prudent to safely drive our Model-As with only the rear or front brakes operational. It is my position that if someone cannot afford to have a safe Model-A to drive, they should only use it for enjoyment in the parked position.

Are the tube shock conversions a viable solution to shock replacement? Sure is a lot cheaper.

John

[dave in australia]

One thing to check, do you have one CW and one AC shock. Whichever end you put them on, you will need one of each.

[bavArian]

Put them in the rear. The rear tires are more important for keeping your vehicle in the lane.

[Kevin in NJ]

Let me end the debate with fact.

When I did my 30 fordor suspension, that is took the springs apart and lubricated them. Plus redid the brakes and replaced the cracked wishbone.

I took the car out for a test drive. I got over 20 MPH and went over where the railroad tracks used to be. The car felt like it was going off the road, you know tha sinking feeling you get as you start to lose control of a car.

I kind of knew that would happen, but I wanted to test drive the car and see if the brakes worked.

I only had 2 shocks handy that were rebuildable. By rebuildable, they were already apart and I just needed to put a seal kit in and put them together. At the time I did not know how to easily get the shocks apart.

So I put them on the front of the car.

Control, as in I would run the car at 60 MPH no problem. You could tell the rear was a bit springy, but it did not affect overall control. That is running 60 on bumpy back roads control.

So I can tell you if you are only going to do 2 shocks put them on the front.

I will add, this was a 30 fordor which is a heavy car. I am not sure how these results would go on a roadster. You may need all 4 in that case.

Oh, for those who do not think the A can run 60. You all have never driven a well restored Model A. I grew up with A's we always ran highway speeds with no concern so that is all I know. As for mods, a model B cam and ignition cam along with a burn out proof condenser are the only mods.

[Fred A]

Aermotor seems to figure that tube shocks are "Sure a lot cheaper". Quite sure when compared to the Stype shocks, the quality of which I respect. I'm often beating the drum, making the case that Model A parts being the great bargain and should be considered. I get out among them (swap meets) a few times a month and find that to be true. If I were doing my planning out of a parts catalogue or advertisement the view would be different. Comparable frustration may be felt by the strong "as Henry made it" crowd. I'm sure not there. Go for it you profligate spenders! Fred A

[bavArian]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

So I put them on the front of the car.

Control, as in I would run the car at 60 MPH no problem. You could tell the rear was a bit springy, but it did not affect overall control. That is running 60 on bumpy back roads control.

So I can tell you if you are only going to do 2 shocks put them on the front.

Did you even try it with the shocks at the rear axle?


If everyone that knows what he's saying says to put the good tires at the rear, why should it be different with shock absorbers?
The rear axle is what holds you on the road after all, the front is "just" there for the steering.


I wouldn't take the compromise of using only 2 shocks anyway. Seems like a bad idea to save money at tires/brakes/suspension.

[JKY]

Originally Posted by McMimmcs

That was not the question he asked. It also must be understood that each of us have access to different resources.

Thanks for pointing that out. I believe he asked if the OP had access to swap meets and then proceeded to offer some advice on how to locate good used shocks if he did have access. I presume he was TRYING TO HELP him locate a total of four inexpensively.