6 volt relay

[cmbrucew]

Jerry you need to put a shortcut for that pdf on your desktop.
Bruce

[Drbrown]

Good thread here. It underscores the concept that the use of relays can reduce the hazard of fire in the passenger compartment by restricting [where possible] high-amperage wiring to the engine compartment, can shorten high-amperage wire runs to reduce voltage loss and wire over-heating, and can enable the greater use of smaller gauge wiring to control the relays. All good stuff if done correctly.

[jacob smith]

How many amps should you have at the headlights if you are running the stock set up. Before is add relays to the headlights. I am going to check all the wiring.

[supereal]

Glad my original idea works so well for so many. Thanks to Mr. Seery for posting the photo. I needed the relays, as my halogen headlights were weaker than the originals until I fed them full voltage. I made the connections to the headlight loom at the left side of the radiator using bullet connectors. That way, no wires had to be cut, and could be returned to the original quickly. As for cost, I bought the solenoids from C&G for half the price at NAPA, about $25. I also used hem to design and build a control box for the top pump in my '47 convertible.

[Drbrown]

Here's a *.jpg (photo) schematic diagram of Seery's Bosch relay scheme as drawn by Radio Corp. They indicate use of 30 amp relays. Wire sizes labeled indicate its based on a 6 volt system. DON'T "wire direct to batt terminal" as this diagram says .... wire to batt side of solenoid as Seery said, and DO insert a fuse as close to the solenoid as possible.

[JSeery]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by supereal

Glad my original idea works so well for so many.

Here is an old post of Supers setup I have filed. As far as I know, this is the Original! It's an arrangement I really like. A Barn member sent my the brass strips I used, big thanks for that.

If you look at the photo I posted earlier, I have my relays turned the opposite direction compared to Supers, doesn't matter much as long as you keep track of which post does what on the solenoid you are using.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I didn't bring that approach up, but I agree with supereal and in fact that is what I use on my 33 coupe. I always though it was an original idea that I thought up, but after I saw a photo/sketch of the one supereal uses I decided I must of seen it before and had the idea in the back of my mind (ie. stole it!) LOL. The only difference is I use constant current relays and supereal uses starter (intermittent) relays. But he has used them for years (like Henry and his 12v relays), with good success, so go figure.

I mainly like the period look vs the modern square cube especially the black plastic ones. But that is just a personel thing.

That is a really nice setup - clean, simple and well done!

Got the diagrams and part numbers - you boys are FAST! I too have halogen bulbs in my original 32 headlights - they draw a lot of amps, so I need to "upgrade" the original wiring, but not screw it up if I want to take it back to original. I'll probably build something that hides inside the front driver's side frame rail - yet uses the stock headlight control switch for activation.

[JSeery]

Cole Hersee 24097 6v insulated continuous duty SPST Solenoid 85A
Normally Open, One circuit: Off - On
Housing: Plated steel.
Contacts: Copper 5/16" -24 thread, hexnuts and lockwashers included.
Coil, ignition and ground terminals: Steel 10-32 thread, hexnuts and lockwashers included.
Bracket mounting holes 5/16" x 19/32" (7.9 x 15.1) on 2 13/64" centers (56.0mm).

[4dFord/SC]

Another vote for Supereal's setup. A fun weekend project, and it works great. I used copper instead of brass for the bus bars.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Cole Hersee 24097 6v insulated continuous duty SPST Solenoid 85A
Normally Open, One circuit: Off - On
Housing: Plated steel.
Contacts: Copper 5/16" -24 thread, hexnuts and lockwashers included.
Coil, ignition and ground terminals: Steel 10-32 thread, hexnuts and lockwashers included.
Bracket mounting holes 5/16" x 19/32" (7.9 x 15.1) on 2 13/64" centers (56.0mm).

Any idea as to where I might buy those solenoids? Thought you might know - save me some time and maybe $$$! Thanks!

[JSeery]

I buy a lot of parts on Amazon, one of my biggest issues is shipping, I always try to get free shipping!

http://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Switch-Solenoid-Marine-Industrial/dp/B0081TGWCC

These are the cross-reference numbers:
Accurate7-1018
Cole Hersee24097
Johnson Electric5117040 & SO51170
Prestolite15-44, 15-5 & SAS4601

[jacob smith]

Thanks for all the info. Working on the fog lights. Think I will do this set up next

[green53]

I know this is an old thread, but my question is why shouldn't you run power straight from the battery to the relay? Why use the starting solenoid instead? If you put an inline fuse, aren't you ok?
Thanks.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by green53

I know this is an old thread, but my question is why shouldn't you run power straight from the battery to the relay? Why use the starting solenoid instead? If you put an inline fuse, aren't you ok?
Thanks.

Electrically, the two points of connection (battery post OR solenoid lug) essentially amount to the same point, as the two points are CONNECTED directly by a huge battery cable. Voltage should be constant anywhere along that cable. It is simply cleaner and usually more convenient to use a proper wire connector and connect in tandem with the battery cable end on the designated post on the solenoid. Much cleaner than rigging some ugly connection to the battery post. And remember, fuses are designed to protect WIRING in a circuit....NOT the appliance that the circuit is powering such as headlights, a horn, or a radio, etc. DD