The Ford Barn

Daves55Sedan · 11-13-2017, 01:41 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

As mentioned in the introduction, I decided it would be too much trouble to try to salvage the existing left side outer rear quarter.
Lrqtr1.JPG
The plan was to cut off the outer panel about 1 inch above the contour line, knowing that there was good metal to weld to below this cut on the wheelwell as the bottom of it had to be cut off also. In this way, I would be able to weld my wheelwell patch pieces from the outside rather than trying to weld overhead (under the wheelwell). However, to facilitate for this, I would not be able to simply run my jigsaw down the length of the outer rocker to cut it off, because the blade would run into the wheelwell (which would be cut off at a lower line than the outer quarter panel). So I used a cutoff disc fitted in a drill to cut the outer panel where the wheelwell was behind the outer quarter. Then I was able to simply use a jigsaw to cut off the bottom of the rusted wheelwell below the outer panel cutline, and I was able to run the jigsaw from alongside the outside of the car rather than trying to cut from underneath the wheelwell. The photo below shows the relationship between the outer panel cut line and the lower wheelwell cutoff line. At the time the photo was taken, the new wheelwell patch pieces were already welded on (see Part 6 of this series).
Lwhltub7a.JPG
However, it is important to note that the outer panels were cut, bent, flanged and temporarily fitted on the car prior to making the wheelwell patch pieces. The wheelwell work is described in PART 6. The work for the outer panels is further described below. The outer panels were fitted in place and temporarily remained on the car so that cardboard templates could be made for new metal patch pieces to fit between the existing portion of the wheelwell and the new outer fenderwell.
The bottom of the factory rear quarter had those factory resistance welds every 1-1/2 inches that had to be ground out to separate the outer quarter from the inner panel which I intended to salvage with a few patches. The plan was to then first cut and fit the new storebought outer panel and temporarily install it so that I could make cardboard templates for the inner pieces (see Part 6) to fit from the wheelwell to the fenderwell outlet. I added an additional 1/2 inch at the top of my cut on the new outer panel for step-flanging in behind the existing fender at the cut line and I could use sheet metal screws to hold the new panel to the existing fender through that metal flange. After the flanging was done, I used my handheld hole punch to punch holes thru the existing fender just above the cut line. I then fitted the new panel on and clamped it in place and marked those hole locations on the flange with an ink pen. Then I removed the panel and punched the holes at those ink marks. Then I re-installed the panel again using sheet metal screws thru all those holes and clamped the bottom to the inner rear quarter. The outer rear quarter panel is now ready to be fitted with the "front-of-rear-quarter piece in place on the car.
Lfender1.JPG
When it came time to fit the outer "front-of-rear-quarter" patch piece on over the inner patch, I used a little pair of needle-nosed vice-grips to clamp each "tab" to the outer fenderwell opening. To get the outer front of rear quarter piece and the new rear quarter panel fitted together properly, I first temporarily fastened both panels in place on the fender and clamped them at the bottom with vice-grips. I made a splice plate, bent to match the shape of the body contour for splicing the front piece to the rear quarter panel. I fastened the splice plate (positioned on the backside) to the front & rear sections with four temporary sheet metal screws (two each piece). Then I removed both outer pieces and welded the splice plate to the backside of the front of rear quarter section only, so that I could still work with the outer pieces separately as it would have been impossible to re-install them both welded together due to the step-flange at the top of the rear quarter panel. Prior to welding the outer pieces in place, I took them outside, primered the backside of the pieces and sprayed the backside with the metallic blue base enamel, with masking tape at the edges to keep the bare metal exposed there for welding.
pnt-backside.JPG
Welding the "tabs" all along the new outer fenderwell opening on the back side was very difficult. I had to get my head and shoulders stuck up inside the wheelwell with my arm holding the mig welding tip in that little area where the wheelwell meets with the outer fenderwell, but I got some good welds on each tab. I did a little grinding of the welds but didn't take great pains with this since it is not something normally seen from outside. The pic below shows the outer "front-of-rear-quarter" patch fitted over the inner patch pieces.
Lrdrjamb3.JPG
The inner rear quarter panel had rust holes at the very back, around the second drain plug and at the front corner at the bottom. These areas were all cut out and new metal patches were cut to fit and welded flush with the existing panel surface. In doing so, I eliminated the second drain plug. I also noticed the bottom of the first drain plug hole was rusted out so I removed and discarded that rubber plug too, and welded a round knockout in the hole. I patched over small gaps at a few weld seams with JB-Weld. At this point I temporarily removed the outer panels to clean, sand and buff out both sides of the inner rear quarter, then primered the panel on both sides with self-etching primer. Here is some photos.
Linnqtrpatch1.JPG Linnqtrpatch2.JPG Linnqtrpatch3.JPG
While I had the outer panels off the car, this would be the perfect opportunity to paint the base enamel overcoat on the hidden side of the inner rear quarter and the patched up wheelwell. I cut out a big piece of cardboard carton and wedged it in behind the top of the panel at the trunk floor so paint overspray would not migrate thru the opening onto the trunk floor. All the surfaces where welding would later occur at the bottom flange of the inner rear quarter and all the wheelwell flanges were masked off so that paint would not interfere with welding.
Then I permanently installed the front and rear outer quarter panels with the temporary screws and clamps. I welded the two panels together at the splice seam. The long step-flanged seam was first tack-welded at about 5 inch intervals, then I went back and made weld beads 1/4-3/8 inch long all along the seam leaving little gaps in between. I removed the screws and welded the screw holes shut. I did not like the way the storebought outer rear quarter panel was shaped at the very back at the bottom because it did not mate with the original curve of the inner rear quarter, so I cut "V-slots" and bent the panel over to meet with the rear bottom corner of the inner rear quarter. I clamped the inner panel to the outer with needle-nosed vice-grips and welded those "V-slots" in solid. After grinding the weld smooth there, it looked okay. I proceeded then to finish grinding the outer quarter weld seams flush with an angle grinder. Some of the welded areas at the "front-of-rear-quarter needed to be ground down using a Dremel rotary tool with a thick grinding disc due to all the close corners. After welding the outer pieces to the new wheelwell inner "tabs" was finished, I plastered the tabs and the weld seams on the underside with JB-weld epoxy, then sprayed on a coat of primer. I also caulked the wheelwell-to-outer-fender seam and the inner rocker to outer rear quarter panel seam with 3M Fast-N-Firm caulk and primered over that.

11-13-2017, 01:41 AM	#1
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	'55 car rust repair Part 7: Left side inner & outer rear qtr pnls Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) As mentioned in the introduction, I decided it would be too much trouble to try to salvage the existing left side outer rear quarter. Lrqtr1.JPG The plan was to cut off the outer panel about 1 inch above the contour line, knowing that there was good metal to weld to below this cut on the wheelwell as the bottom of it had to be cut off also. In this way, I would be able to weld my wheelwell patch pieces from the outside rather than trying to weld overhead (under the wheelwell). However, to facilitate for this, I would not be able to simply run my jigsaw down the length of the outer rocker to cut it off, because the blade would run into the wheelwell (which would be cut off at a lower line than the outer quarter panel). So I used a cutoff disc fitted in a drill to cut the outer panel where the wheelwell was behind the outer quarter. Then I was able to simply use a jigsaw to cut off the bottom of the rusted wheelwell below the outer panel cutline, and I was able to run the jigsaw from alongside the outside of the car rather than trying to cut from underneath the wheelwell. The photo below shows the relationship between the outer panel cut line and the lower wheelwell cutoff line. At the time the photo was taken, the new wheelwell patch pieces were already welded on (see Part 6 of this series). Lwhltub7a.JPG However, it is important to note that the outer panels were cut, bent, flanged and temporarily fitted on the car prior to making the wheelwell patch pieces. The wheelwell work is described in PART 6. The work for the outer panels is further described below. The outer panels were fitted in place and temporarily remained on the car so that cardboard templates could be made for new metal patch pieces to fit between the existing portion of the wheelwell and the new outer fenderwell. The bottom of the factory rear quarter had those factory resistance welds every 1-1/2 inches that had to be ground out to separate the outer quarter from the inner panel which I intended to salvage with a few patches. The plan was to then first cut and fit the new storebought outer panel and temporarily install it so that I could make cardboard templates for the inner pieces (see Part 6) to fit from the wheelwell to the fenderwell outlet. I added an additional 1/2 inch at the top of my cut on the new outer panel for step-flanging in behind the existing fender at the cut line and I could use sheet metal screws to hold the new panel to the existing fender through that metal flange. After the flanging was done, I used my handheld hole punch to punch holes thru the existing fender just above the cut line. I then fitted the new panel on and clamped it in place and marked those hole locations on the flange with an ink pen. Then I removed the panel and punched the holes at those ink marks. Then I re-installed the panel again using sheet metal screws thru all those holes and clamped the bottom to the inner rear quarter. The outer rear quarter panel is now ready to be fitted with the "front-of-rear-quarter piece in place on the car. Lfender1.JPG When it came time to fit the outer "front-of-rear-quarter" patch piece on over the inner patch, I used a little pair of needle-nosed vice-grips to clamp each "tab" to the outer fenderwell opening. To get the outer front of rear quarter piece and the new rear quarter panel fitted together properly, I first temporarily fastened both panels in place on the fender and clamped them at the bottom with vice-grips. I made a splice plate, bent to match the shape of the body contour for splicing the front piece to the rear quarter panel. I fastened the splice plate (positioned on the backside) to the front & rear sections with four temporary sheet metal screws (two each piece). Then I removed both outer pieces and welded the splice plate to the backside of the front of rear quarter section only, so that I could still work with the outer pieces separately as it would have been impossible to re-install them both welded together due to the step-flange at the top of the rear quarter panel. Prior to welding the outer pieces in place, I took them outside, primered the backside of the pieces and sprayed the backside with the metallic blue base enamel, with masking tape at the edges to keep the bare metal exposed there for welding. pnt-backside.JPG Welding the "tabs" all along the new outer fenderwell opening on the back side was very difficult. I had to get my head and shoulders stuck up inside the wheelwell with my arm holding the mig welding tip in that little area where the wheelwell meets with the outer fenderwell, but I got some good welds on each tab. I did a little grinding of the welds but didn't take great pains with this since it is not something normally seen from outside. The pic below shows the outer "front-of-rear-quarter" patch fitted over the inner patch pieces. Lrdrjamb3.JPG The inner rear quarter panel had rust holes at the very back, around the second drain plug and at the front corner at the bottom. These areas were all cut out and new metal patches were cut to fit and welded flush with the existing panel surface. In doing so, I eliminated the second drain plug. I also noticed the bottom of the first drain plug hole was rusted out so I removed and discarded that rubber plug too, and welded a round knockout in the hole. I patched over small gaps at a few weld seams with JB-Weld. At this point I temporarily removed the outer panels to clean, sand and buff out both sides of the inner rear quarter, then primered the panel on both sides with self-etching primer. Here is some photos. Linnqtrpatch1.JPG Linnqtrpatch2.JPG Linnqtrpatch3.JPG While I had the outer panels off the car, this would be the perfect opportunity to paint the base enamel overcoat on the hidden side of the inner rear quarter and the patched up wheelwell. I cut out a big piece of cardboard carton and wedged it in behind the top of the panel at the trunk floor so paint overspray would not migrate thru the opening onto the trunk floor. All the surfaces where welding would later occur at the bottom flange of the inner rear quarter and all the wheelwell flanges were masked off so that paint would not interfere with welding. Then I permanently installed the front and rear outer quarter panels with the temporary screws and clamps. I welded the two panels together at the splice seam. The long step-flanged seam was first tack-welded at about 5 inch intervals, then I went back and made weld beads 1/4-3/8 inch long all along the seam leaving little gaps in between. I removed the screws and welded the screw holes shut. I did not like the way the storebought outer rear quarter panel was shaped at the very back at the bottom because it did not mate with the original curve of the inner rear quarter, so I cut "V-slots" and bent the panel over to meet with the rear bottom corner of the inner rear quarter. I clamped the inner panel to the outer with needle-nosed vice-grips and welded those "V-slots" in solid. After grinding the weld smooth there, it looked okay. I proceeded then to finish grinding the outer quarter weld seams flush with an angle grinder. Some of the welded areas at the "front-of-rear-quarter needed to be ground down using a Dremel rotary tool with a thick grinding disc due to all the close corners. After welding the outer pieces to the new wheelwell inner "tabs" was finished, I plastered the tabs and the weld seams on the underside with JB-weld epoxy, then sprayed on a coat of primer. I also caulked the wheelwell-to-outer-fender seam and the inner rocker to outer rear quarter panel seam with 3M Fast-N-Firm caulk and primered over that.