The Ford Barn

tandnhome · 12-09-2011, 06:26 PM

B-4 and after rust converter

bobpo · 12-11-2011, 08:29 AM

Can't really tell from the photo, but are you satisfied with the results?

tandnhome · 12-11-2011, 12:37 PM

Works real well, better then Ospho... Go's on and turns purple .. in a short time, cleans up with water and the surface is ready to paint.

rollingsculpture · 12-11-2011, 11:40 PM

sounds like the same kind of stuff as the spray on/rattlecan you get at the the autozone

seems like a good once over with an orbital sander before application would obtain a smoother surface and still get the rust conversion /protection for the really stubborn stuff

metalho · 12-11-2011, 11:45 PM

You should send the pic to Works, looks like an add.

Doug in NJ · 12-12-2011, 07:49 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

This stuff is a tannic acid based formula. The same basic formula has been available for a long time from many vendors. Here is an explanation of the chemistry:

http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Con...AQs-W48C2.aspx

The one thing I could never figure out is why nobody sold a tannic acid-based convertor without the water-based polymer component. The tannic acid seems to actually work, but then you end up priming the part with something similar to Elmer's Glue...

Doug

Kurt in NJ · 12-12-2011, 09:41 AM

When you say "works really well" does this mean that there are no little rust bumps showing in areas that were pitted a year or more after final paint??
The local autobody shops in my area using rust converter have trouble with the rust coming back after less than 1 year --starting with little bumps in the final paint, and big chunks of paint falling off in 3 years ---I have seen this happen with the cheap and $$$ paint jobs.

So far the only method that has worked for me in the long term (more than 5 years of normal outside parked driving)) with no reoccuring signs of rust or paint failure has been sandblasting,picklex 20, epoxy primer, surfacing primer---etc under the final paint,I would like an easy miracle method other than sandblasting that works in the long term.

TD · 12-12-2011, 02:10 PM

Rustoleum has a rust converter that stays wet w/o running and when it dries, takes a while, the magic is done and its a flat black surface that is treated and adheres well to anything you wish to put down. Just say'n

12-11-2011, 08:29 AM	#2
bobpo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NW Ohio Posts: 556	Re: Rust Converter Can't really tell from the photo, but are you satisfied with the results?

12-11-2011, 12:37 PM	#3
tandnhome Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lucedale Mississippi Posts: 10	Re: Rust Converter Works real well, better then Ospho... Go's on and turns purple .. in a short time, cleans up with water and the surface is ready to paint.

12-11-2011, 11:40 PM	#4
rollingsculpture Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Takoma park md Posts: 271	Re: Rust Converter sounds like the same kind of stuff as the spray on/rattlecan you get at the the autozone seems like a good once over with an orbital sander before application would obtain a smoother surface and still get the rust conversion /protection for the really stubborn stuff __________________ Rust and roll will never die

12-11-2011, 11:45 PM	#5
metalho Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Bothell Washington Posts: 530	Re: Rust Converter You should send the pic to Works, looks like an add.

12-12-2011, 07:49 AM	#6
Doug in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Princeton, NJ Posts: 965	Re: Rust Converter Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) This stuff is a tannic acid based formula. The same basic formula has been available for a long time from many vendors. Here is an explanation of the chemistry: http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Con...AQs-W48C2.aspx The one thing I could never figure out is why nobody sold a tannic acid-based convertor without the water-based polymer component. The tannic acid seems to actually work, but then you end up priming the part with something similar to Elmer's Glue... Doug __________________ My '31 S/W sedan project:http://31ford.dougbraun.com My restoration diary: http://dougbraun.com/blog

12-12-2011, 09:41 AM	#7
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Rust Converter When you say "works really well" does this mean that there are no little rust bumps showing in areas that were pitted a year or more after final paint?? The local autobody shops in my area using rust converter have trouble with the rust coming back after less than 1 year --starting with little bumps in the final paint, and big chunks of paint falling off in 3 years ---I have seen this happen with the cheap and $$$ paint jobs. So far the only method that has worked for me in the long term (more than 5 years of normal outside parked driving)) with no reoccuring signs of rust or paint failure has been sandblasting,picklex 20, epoxy primer, surfacing primer---etc under the final paint,I would like an easy miracle method other than sandblasting that works in the long term.

12-12-2011, 02:10 PM	#8
TD Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: shelby, nc Posts: 201	Re: Rust Converter Rustoleum has a rust converter that stays wet w/o running and when it dries, takes a while, the magic is done and its a flat black surface that is treated and adheres well to anything you wish to put down. Just say'n