How to remove old pour in gas tank liner

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I have a friend who resorted to installing saddle tanks, that hide behind the running board splash shields.
On Coupes & Roadsters, a vertical, rectangular tank "could" be fabricated & placed against the back seat cushion, along with an electric fuel pump.
Bill W.

[Benson]

I had a customer 7-8 years ago that had a tank with some bright orange silicone rubber looking stuff.

Never did find out how he removed it from tank. He was going to do it himself once he saw the mess inside the tank.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with Keith. No liner will ever be in any of my tanks. Even if a tank had some rust, I'd clean it with Evaporust, then just use filters.

[justold]

just a thought ,how about washing with soap and water and put in a powder coating oven and bake it like they do to remove powder coat ?

[DougVieyra]

Dismantle the tank from your restored car, cut the tank apart and "properly" clean it out, and weld the tank back together, and then re-install it back into the car. Then do a re-paint 'touch up' job on your cowl section, where removal and installation of the gas tank chipped the paint job of your restored car.

. . . . . so how much is that 'proper way to do it' going to cost $$$$$$ to have done at a 'Restoration Shop' ? $$$$$$$ Without knowing, and not being 'in the business', I would only guess between $1,000 and $2,000. And would not be surprised if it were more.

I ask because some of us do not have either the shop, equipment, abilities, or inclination to do the job in our garage.

Ofcourse, many on the Ford Barn Forum DO have such talents and resources, and such a project would have both FUN and minimal costs. But for the rest of us, I am asking "How much would a Restoration Shop charge to do the job ? "

- 5 years ago, I just spent some time cleaning out my tank with various ways and then installed a 'pencil' filter above the Shut Off valve. Car has worked fine for 5 years now. And I can tear down and clean out my fuel line in 5 minutes IF it ever becomes necessary in the future.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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I agree with Doug.
We want a safe reliable car, but sometimes overthink and overspend to fix a problem.

[Oldbluoval]

Tom- agreed as above and I know u painted with a broad brush
However, I've seen many problems even with micro-fine
rust in a tank. Filters, carbs et al
Getting a clean tank is an big deal
Imho

[Russ]

If the sealer is not epoxy based, Methl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) may work. This was successful in a very similar situation on an airplane wing on my dad's homebuilt airplane.

Cutting/re-welding the tank will solve one problem but cause a few more. You'll have distortion of the panels and either not enough weld penetration or (depending on location) a weld seam protruding into your tank that will collect sediment. The weld metal will oxidize very quickly if it is not protected.

The best way to clean the inside and outside of the tank is to have it chemically stripped (I used Redi-Strip in the Chicago area). But as someone mentioned, this will dissolve brass (filler neck on '28/'29). The filler neck will have to be carefully removed with a torch and the tank filled with water just below the filler neck.

After almost 90 years, the sacrificial lead/tin Terne coat is either almost gone or entirely depleted, which is why these tanks are usually rusted. I had mine re-tinned (no more lead these days) at Archer Tinning in Chicago. The results are fantastic and I'm hoping to do a write-up in one of the magazines when I get the time. Another side benefit of re-tinning is that this will reseal the steering column bracket on the '28/'29 tanks, which often start to leak over time.

Hope this helps.

[Bruce_MO]

I've had the misfortune of having to do a tank twice... first time to remove an old "aircraft fuel tank sloshing compound" I used to line the tank in about 1985, and again when the radiator shop used "Redcoat" tank sealer and it didn't cure properly in a couple places. I think the shop used MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) to remove the sealer, and then also boiled it out. And yes, I had to repaint the tank each time. I reviewed the Material Safety Data Sheet on Redcoat sealer, and I recall it did say that MEK would remove it.

[Maclab58]

I spoke with Steve at Bert's. He recommended that I put on a couple of gallons in the tank and let it sit for a couple of days and see what progress is. If it is coming off, he recommended to fill the tank with acetone and let it sit for a few days. If it appears it has all come out, then follow with several gallons of evaporust and let that sit for a few days changing the position of the tank so that all services are covered. Then drain the tank and replace in the car. I am thinking this might be worth a try and not be a budget killer. Anybody else have any comments? Steve said he is done this on several tanks and had been successful.

[AL in NY]

Just be VERY CAREFUL when using that quantity of acetone. It is extremely flammable to the point of being explosive. Definitely do this outside far away from ANY source of ignition. Good luck!!!!

[Maclab58]

Here is follow up. I poured 1 gallon of acetone into the tank and watched as the sealer began to curl up. This is not going to be that hard to do, rest assured I'm doing it outside too. The cap is off the tank and I have it sitting on an outdoor rocking chair so I can rock it back and forth to agitate it. I'm guessing 3 or 4 gallons of acetone and a couple of days and the problem will be solved. I plan to take it and power wash it and the possibly still hot tank it at the end. I will then follow up with a couple of gallons of evaporust. Then all I need to do is paint. Must admit I'm feeling a little better about this issue.

[zzlegend]

I hope anyone thinking of putting sealer crap in their tanks reads this thread. I have always said, that I would not even put that crap in my toilet. I have had three motorcycle tanks brought to me in the past with the same junk peeling away and clogging the fuel lines. I installed a good tank in my 27 roadster about 4 years ago. It had a little lite rust in the bottom. Poured in 3 gallons of evaporust and let it set for a week and occasionally would shake it around. Drained it and it has old very lite stains in the bottom that will never hurt a thing. Will it get creamed? Hell no. Just keep it running on clean gas and an in line filter and that's it. No worries. I also picked up a real clean 30-31 tank at a swap meet about 4 years ago. Saving that for a future project,,,,,,,,,maybe. So they are out there.

[gardon]

40 years ago I cut out the front of my 31 tank, sand blasted it, welded it back in,reinstalled and never looked back. I've kept gas in it and it is still rust free.

[eagle]

20 years ago I had a couple original tanks for my stationary engines that were solid pinholes. Unrepairable and basically junk. I lined them with the white sealer, had to do it a few times as even the sealer leaked through all of the holes. 20 years later, with gas sitting in them continuously, they are still good. That stuff has its place, but the tank must be CLEAN. I wouldn't ever use it in a car though unless it's last resort. For some of the odd hit and miss stationary engines, repro tanks aren't available and an original can be big bucks.

[wrndln]

I don't think you would need to "fill" the tank with a chemical like acetone or MEK. If you fill it half full, you can stand the tank on end and the flip the tank every so often. That will save some money and you wont have as much chemical to dispose of. Just a suggestion.
Rusty Nelson

[5window]

MEK and Acetone are both highly flammable and carcinogenic-big time. Cutting apart a tank, not necessarily in this case, but in general, can be dangerous, too and should be done by someone who knows what they are doing.

No matter what step you take with this tank, you have one with a questionable inner surface and maybe welded repair spots. Do you have a backup plan? A new tank, if one were available, might save you a lot of future grief .

[H. L. Chauvin]

For a simple Model A chemical "Experiment", for dissolving and removing "any" petroleum based product:

A. First try Kroil, PB Blaster, acetone, paint thinner, gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, lacquer thinner, WD-40, and about 20 or so similar products to see the results.

B. Next try the specially formulated water based chemical POR 15 Marine Clean mixed with hot water, designed to remove petroleum products not just on the surface, but in the deep pores of metal.

C. Always worth a try prior to removing a Model A tank ..... worked for removing my "petroleum" based tank sealer.

[Bruce_MO]

A common brand of gas tank coating is "Redcoat", and I believe their tech data sheets say it can be removed with MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone).

[H. L. Chauvin]

Not much different from curing simple, residential wood deterioration:

A. First: Try to find out if it is Fire Ants, Regular Ground Termites, Formosan Termites, excess moisture mixed with air, or what ever.

B. Second: Put on your Exterminator Cap, and/or Wood Treatment Cap, with your cap beak pointing forward.