How do you get front wheels straight before setting Toe-In

[jwilliams81]

If you were looking at the car from a bird's eye view, and one wheel has more toe-in or toe-out while the other wheel is perfectly point straight ahead, what do you adjust?

How do you guys get both wheels straight before setting the toe-in?
What do you measure against?

Do you eyeball each wheel straight ahead, and then adjust each end of the tie-rod evenly with the other end until you can drop the tie-rod onto both wheels?

What are some other ways to make sure both wheels are pointed ahead before you start setting Toe-In?

Toe-In I understand... but how do you make sure one wheel isn't pointed more in or out before you even start.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

By turning the steering wheel until it looks purdy straight.
Bill W.[/B]

[Keith True]

It's not a modern car,you can't drop the tie rod ends into a precise hole.You just loosen the clamps on each tie rod end,and turn the tie rod to adjust in or out.One has a right hand thread,and the other a left hand thread.Also not like a modern car,you can't adjust the right and left independently.You don't get to adjust the steering wheel to center like a modern car either.When you do adjust the toe in,using whatever method you like best,it has to be done with the weight of the car on the wheels,not jacked up.After turning the tie rod,you have to roll the car to get it accurate.

[Herb Concord Ca]

the only way to get both wheels straight, if they are not, is to start both ends at the same time, best done with the tie rod and ends removed from the steering arms. Thread each end one complete turn and place the tie rod with ends on the steering arms, adjust them and then turn tie rod the get the toe-in you want. Hope the steering arm balls are round, if not, they should be replaced, and that's another story.

[jwilliams81]

I was thinking about removing the tie-rod. Eye balling both wheels straight.

Then screw in each side of the tie-rod in equally while still off the car... until the bar ends are close to lining up with the steering arm balls.

Then reattach the tie-rod and go to town setting the toe-in.

[J Franklin]

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That is the way I would try it.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

The caster setting controls the path of each front wheel. When the car moves forward the pivot point is in front of the wheel and it will naturally go straight. You just roll the car forward and it will self-correct into a straight forward condition.
Like when you turn a corner and release the steering wheel it will automatically straighten out.
So just drive it in as straight as you can and then let go of the steering wheel for about a car length and it will self-correct and that will be as close as you can get it.

[Purdy Swoft]

That is a good one that we all need to know . Thanks Dennis for the good info !!!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Some of this is SO CONFUSING! Why not take it to an Alignment Shop & have the WHOLE Front End aligned?
Bill W.

[quickchange]

take a piece of string , tie to a rear spoke , turn front wheel till string touches front & rear edge of tire, then take to other side , tie too a rear spoke , pull string to front wheel
it will touch the back of the tire ,so then measure the gap between tire & string at front edge , this will give toe in or out (if gap is at the rear ) simple , works for me, still cool in NZ

[WHN]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Some of this is SO CONFUSING! Why not take it to an Alignment Shop & have the WHOLE Front End aligned?
Bill W.

I agree with Bill. As I have mentioned before, $49.95 is money well spent.

When we had our 29 done two years ago, the dealer did not want to charge us because of the crowd it had attracted. We still paid him. Car drives down the road as straight as an arrow. Steers like it has power steering once moving. You can very easily drive along using just one hand. No shimmy ever and they checked everything for looseness or other potential problems.

It is a hobby, but these are still real cars being driven on public roads.

Do it or have it done right the first time.

[rogerkb1936]

not quite the answer to your question, but I put a shortened pitman arm on my pu, and the steering wheel was not centered when wheels were straight ahead. the arm was not made correctly. the shortened arm on my roadster is right on center.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Some of this is SO CONFUSING! Why not take it to an Alignment Shop & have the WHOLE Front End aligned?
Bill W.

Take it to an alignment shop and you take away the fun. I want to do it myself !!!!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by quickchange

take a piece of string , tie to a rear spoke , turn front wheel till string touches front & rear edge of tire, then take to other side , tie too a rear spoke , pull string to front wheel
it will touch the back of the tire ,so then measure the gap between tire & string at front edge , this will give toe in or out (if gap is at the rear ) simple , works for me, still cool in NZ

Or 2 LOOONG 2 X 4s, tied to the spokes.
Bill Carpenter

[24ruxstel1339]

I like to sight down the tire from the front edge to the rear edge, near the centerline. Using the rear tire as reference, I try to just not quite see the rear of the front rim on each side, that's usually close.

[daren007]

Center the steering wheel then align the wheels. when you obtain the correct toe in the wheels will be in alignment.

[Cape Codder]

Soooooo.......are you saying I have been doing my alignment wrong because my steering wheel is not correct? My steering wheel is not in the "X" position after aligning the front end. I have never seen that part of alignment in any book but sure seems reasonable as I can't easily see my speedometer while driving. The only question I have is if I center the steering wheel, the wheels will be to the right or left, will the alignment process bring them back to straight ahead position?

[cw253748]

Just adjust your front wheels for proper toe in. Your wheels will always self center so that the toe will always be equal between both sides. You can’t drive with one wheel straight and the other toed in. Also toe CAN NOT cause a car to pull. Camber, caster, or tires can.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

WHATEVER method you use, just keep your eyes on the wear pattern & see if they're scuffing from the inside-out, or visa-versa---If they are, Common Reasoning will tell you WHICH way to make a SLIGHT correction.
Bill Straightasanarrow

[V4F]

I adjusted mine to my best effort , then took it to alignment shop for 4 wheel alignment .

it was so close they told me to go home as I didn't need anything done .

[WHN]

Originally Posted by V4F

I adjusted mine to my best effort , then took it to alignment shop for 4 wheel alignment .

it was so close they told me to go home as I didn't need anything done .

I believe the only thing that can be checked on the rear end is thrust angle. Because of the leaf springs and solid axel I don’t believe there are any adjustments that could be made to rear end for alignment.

If your rear axel is out of alignment the front wheels will automatically compensate for this. Your steering wheel will not be centered as it now has to be turned to one side or the other for the car to move down the road in a straight line. This would cause the car to have an angle as it drove down the road.

A front end shop will be able to check this for you. Bent frame, and worn rear end parts could all contribute to thrust angle.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Originally Posted by V4F

I adjusted mine to my best effort , then took it to alignment shop for 4 wheel alignment .

it was so close they told me to go home as I didn't need anything done .

Now THAT is what makes a guy really enjoy the hobby!

[Cape Codder]

Originally Posted by daren007

Center the steering wheel then align the wheels. when you obtain the correct toe in the wheels will be in alignment.

I don't understand how the steering wheel will stay centered. Can you further explain?

[daren007]

The steering shaft key should be in the 12 o'clock position If I remember right. That is your wheel center. You cannot control the left wheel alignment at this point as there is no drag link adjustment. All you can do is set toe in when you are finished the wheel may be off center somewhat for various reasons such as distance from axle to steering gear. If this changes just slightly the wheel will be off. if you are dog tracking the wheel will be off.

[Cape Codder]

I think how it can be made right is when a Steering Column is restored THEN the shaft with the key have to be positioned at the 12 o'clock position. There is nothing I can do now that the Steering Column is installed.

[daren007]

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turning the wheel lock to lock may not give you an exact center. Use the key way. The key way should clock the wheel either in a X or + position.

[DHZIEMAN]

Toe-in is the easy part! What I found on my rims was the two front rims were just a little out of whack! (not running true) I read how to straighten the rims, and chose rather to find the two straightest rims and put them on the front axle, and then redo the toe in. There are a lot of articles on rim straightening by use of heat and tools I don't have!

[LeroyM]

Get a set of toe in plates and two tape measures. It will take the guess work out of it. I think I toed mine in about 3/16" of an inch.


Something like theses.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Longacre-Ra...IAAOSwEUdajJla

[daren007]

While true running wheels are a plus they are not necessary for setting toe in. Spin the wheels and scribe a line.

[redmodelt]

What I think this all boils down to is he is trying to clock his steering wheel. Guess that would be the least of my worries. I would find the center on the steering box, same number of turns left or right back to center and work from there. With out hands on there could be all kinds of issues, steering arms, one drag link screwed on more then the other, pitman arm bent, tie rod bent etc etc.

[jwilliams81]

All,

I have replaced the steer arms, and pitman arm to get new balls. I have had the steering box rebuilt.

I found a piece of 20' PVC that I had, placed it about 4-5 inches off the ground against the back wheel. Then I removed the Tie-Rod completely. I adjusted the front wheel on each side to hit the PVC pipe that was parallel with the rear wheel. Then I adjusted the Tie-Rod to basically sit down on top of the steering arms that are now correctly positioned.

Screwed in all the end caps for drag link and tie-rod.
Then I set toe-in, rolling the car back and forth a couple times to make sure the measurement was correct.

She runs straight and true now.

My steering wheel is a little off center, but that is ok.
I have about 1/2" of play in the steering wheel.

Thanks for everyone's input.

[100IH]

I think all Model As have the option of either x pattern or spoke at top. The important thing is that the box is centered with equal travel R & L and at the point of least free play. If your intent is to have the wheel just so, you're missing the point completely. As has been mentioned, get an adjustable drag link. Dog legging will throw the box centering off but so does + or - camber on the road.

[whirnot]

Back in the old days when I was in Automotive college, I was taught that centering the steering wheel was always the first step.
As far as using the back wheels for a reference line, that isn't too accurate if you have a very slightly bent rim on the front or rear.
Daren007 nailed it above. Jack up each front wheel and spin the wheel. Hold a sharp point against the tire and it will scribe a line around the tire at the true center of rotation. Let it back down on the tires, bounce it a little to settle it in and then measure from your scribe lines at the front and back of the tires.