What Master Cylinder

[glennpm]

"I thought somebody might cruise over to the HAMB and check out the ad and determine exactly what is involved) the seller says that it came off a 34 Ford stock front axle including '34 spindles, NOT Corvair spindles"

Here is the HAMB ad:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...rsion.1263486/

[glennpm]

This bolt pattern jig is a good option if the diameter of the bolt surface of the rotor is large enough and the wire wheel bolt circle has sufficient contact to the re-drilled rotor.


https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/wheel-...ill-guide-jig/

[jeepguy1948]

Thank you Glenpm for posting that link I didn't know how to do it

[glennpm]

:-)


Glenn

[rich b]

FYI that disc brake set up on the hamb came off a Corvair front end that was under a '34 not off a Ford beam axle.

Those 5 on 5-1/2" disc brake kits use F-150 rotors and are [U]big[U] and won't even begin to work with '35 wires.

No need for disc brakes anyway; best set up would be Boling Bros (MT) brakes on all corners and they will work with your required '35 wires using a support ring.

Way more than enough brakes for an A.

Would still be a good system with Lookheed brakes on the rear.

Would also be a good time to upgrade to V/8 spindles and a better steering box.

Do some more reading and research until you are familiar and comfortable with your plan.

[V8COOPMAN]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by glennpm

"I thought somebody might cruise over to the HAMB and check out the ad and determine exactly what is involved) the seller says that it came off a 34 Ford stock front axle including '34 spindles, NOT Corvair spindles"

Here is the HAMB ad:

Hey Glenn.....I went snooping-around looking for that ad last night, with less luck than you had. Anyway, you found it, and here's what I get out of it.

The seller, if not intentionally, did a good job of convincing you AND DON that those parts were mounted on a '34-ish I-beam axle. I just didn't see how that was possible. BELOW, I have directly quoted the verbiage the seller used.

"This came on a '34 Ford I bought. I am GOING BACK to a dropped axle."

Clever & convincing if you read through it quickly. MY OPINION....that junk was NEVER mounted on an I-beam! In the picture shown below, you can clearly see the spindle on the right (as well as the other spindle) appears to be unaltered, and also looks to be set-up to mount between upper and lower A-arms via ball joints....just like a stock Corvair! My God, you'd even have to convert to rack & pinion steering to use that Corvair 'thingy'.




I'm tellin' y'all, that poor old '34 had the entire Corvair front crossmember mounted on it like SOME guys did in the '70s, this one BELOW being taken out of a '32.



It looked like Maggie's old red drawers, and this seller wisely decided to bring this one back to an I-beam. And you'll note (probably for good reason) that he DOES NOT plan on re-using the disc brake parts on his I-beam.

Glenn....Are you & I back on the same page together, so far?
__________________________________________________ _________

Don (and Glenn, too)....I honestly am not trying to shed a dim light on your desire to run 4-wheel discs, especially with your hope of running the '35 wire wheels. The more I think about it, I don't remember ever seeing the '35 wires mounted REASONABLY or SUCCESSFULLY on disc brake rotors, where everything looks "RIGHT". There have been a few examples over the years, but the wheels/tires either stuck-out way too far, or there was some other sort of exotic (read expensive) machine work involved. But there is another fundamental problem with interference between a mounted caliper, and the bowl-shape of the center hub on a '35 wire wheel. BELOW is a '35 WIRE wheel & a typical brake disc with caliper mounted in position. Now try to imagine the five holes in that wheel being bolted to the disc. With that in mind, now try to imagine that BOWL LIP on the center bowl CLEARING that caliper....AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN! And you're going to have the same interference with a disk brake caliper and a '35 wheel in the rear, too. So Don (and Glenn)....what do you think about what I've pointed-out here? If either of you feel like I'm full of it in any way, let me have it.

Don - There ARE reasonable alternatives that WILL make your A-bone stop...WITH your beloved '35 wires.

"rich b" in post #45 ABOVE has it right!











.

[glennpm]

Re., "Glenn....Are you & I back on the same page together, so far?"


Yes we are. When I found this last night I immediately saw that the spindles were NOT Ford straight axle types.


You also have a good point on clearance. It may work without a wheel to rotor spacer.

[glennpm]

... and the outside diameter of the mounted caliper may rub on the rim itself.


Don, you could take your wheel to a junk yard, find an 80's Chevy, pull the front wheel and see if it fits.

[glennpm]

Like Rich says, "No need for disc brakes anyway; best set up would be Boling Bros (MT) brakes on all corners and they will work with your required '35 wires using a support ring.

Way more than enough brakes for an A.

Would still be a good system with Lookheed brakes on the rear."
especially with a booster!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Like Rich says, "No need for disc brakes anyway; best set up would be Boling Bros (MT) brakes on all corners and they will work with your required '35 wires using a support ring.

Way more than enough brakes for an A.

Would still be a good system with Lookheed brakes on the rear."
especially with a booster!

Yup, I CONCUR 110% on all of this. PLUS....Gary Mussman ("Krylon32" here on the 'Barn) is an MT dealer, and offers 10%-off for FordBarn members. The COMPLETE Model A package BELOW. Click the link BELOW and research the website. Custom or partial packages can be put together.

https://www.bolingbrothers.com/brake-kits-model-a/




Is this a GREAT place, or what?

Coop

.

[42merc]

Save

[glennpm]

Is this a GREAT place, or what?

Yup!

[jeepguy1948]

I appreciate everybody's input I will let this all simmer for awhile. Thanks

[jeepguy1948]

Hey Guyz, I’m reviving this thread because summer is over and I’m ready to get back on this. A few things have happened since I last posted here #1 is that I ordered and received a Cardone 1923. #2 I was approached by some local club members and traded all my mechanical brake parts and pieces (plus some cash) for a complete ‘40 Ford style juice brakes including the Boling Brothers battery box master cylinder set up (which I will not be using), backing plates modified to fit the stock Model A axles/spindles ( not pretty but functional). I purchased new front and rear wheel cylinders for thes so I knew exactly what I had. I also picked up a set of round back spindles. I also stumbled upon a complete set up for a Model A axle: Square back spindles, F2/F250 backing plates (these are Bendix style)(with strange one side only wheel cylinders), and Buick aluminum finned brake drums. Rich B has been a huge help to me evaluating these parts and figuring out what the heck it all was before and after I decided to buy the parts. I will be updating the wheel cylinders to the conventional 2 sided ones. I will be honest with Y’all, I am neither young or dumb or inexperienced but I am currently overwhelmed with figuring out what to do but with all the help it is slowly coming together. Big shout out to Glenn & Rich!

[jeepguy1948]

Glenn, I am trying to get down on paper what I have and what I need to move forward. I have here the Cardone 1923 and I confess that the whole “stepped” thing has me confused. N .945” N1 1.417”, what does this mean (I think it has something to do with the “stepped” thing). What are the front and rear cylinder bores? Thanks!

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by jeepguy1948

Glenn, I am trying to get down on paper what I have and what I need to move forward. I have here the Cardone 1923 and I confess that the whole “stepped” thing has me confused. N .945” N1 1.417”, what does this mean (I think it has something to do with the “stepped” thing). What are the front and rear cylinder bores? Thanks!

I think that Glenn explained this, with a picture in Post #5


-

[glennpm]

Hi Don,

I edited one of the drawings I had, to answer your question.

Do you have a plan for the master cylinder and booster mounting? It is going to take a LOT of room but your wife MAY be happy, "Oh honey, appreciate all the work you did but the brakes are too touchy for me"

I'm interested in the feel with the #101923 without the booster. Initial foot force will be high but will quickly transition to normal once the large bore piston pass the second port in the MS.

Glenn

[jeepguy1948]

Howdy Glenn, I have done a great deal of measuring and figuring and imagining and think I have the install worked out. But, there’s the old saying “everything goes to hell as soon as the shooting stops” so we’ll see how it comes together when I actually am mocking it up. Your drawing refers to an MS but I don’t know what that means, I’m used to MC for Master Cylinder but that’s obviously not it. You also refer to the Cardone 1823 but I’m pretty sure that’s a typo though. So, from looking at the drawing I can see that the cylinder bores are the same (after N-1 has done it’s job). Correct? Stock master cylinder that went with these backing plates was 1 1/16” so I can see the benefits of the 2 stage function, quick take up but then more force than stock with the .945” “N”. Going back to our original posts I see that with drum-drum I will need 10PSI residual valves, correct? I have more questions but I have found that too many variables in one post does not work too well. Thanks!

[jeepguy1948]

Oops, should read “Everything goes to hell when the shooting STARTS” LoL.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by jeepguy1948

Your drawing refers to an MS but I don’t know what that means, I’m used to MC for Master Cylinder but that’s obviously not it. You also refer to the Cardone 1823 but I’m pretty sure that’s a typo though.

Typos fixed

So, from looking at the drawing I can see that the cylinder bores are the same (after N-1 has done it’s job). Correct?

Yes

Stock master cylinder that went with these backing plates was 1 1/16” so I can see the benefits of the 2 stage function, quick take up but then more force than stock with the .945” “N”. Going back to our original posts I see that with drum-drum I will need 10PSI residual valves, correct?

Yes

I have more questions but I have found that too many variables in one post does not work too well. Thanks!

Puntuation and paragraphs help

Read through the earlier attachments and posts for deeper understanding please.