New Owner Million Questions:Engine builders

[VFRhugh]

Following up on my engine evaluation. I've pulled the front and rear main caps and babbitt is cracked on both. I've reached the end of my capabilities at this point. There seems to be lots of babbitt material with no major scoring. I believe the previous owner chose a bad re-builder in the Austin, TX area. The shims were not even on the rear main, .021/.032. Very shallow oil groves in the babbitt. My engine seems to have the "go to" parts(adjustable lifters, SS valves, ect) but assembled poorly. So after reading post after post about bad experiences with engine rebuilds, I'm looking for input where to go from here. I know nobody wants to trash anyone publicly but I would really appreciate feed back and recommendations from follow Ford Barn folks on shops with in 50/75 miles of Houston. I actually live 35 miles east of Houston in Mont Belvieu. I bought this A because of the amount of new and reconditioned parts that had been installed. I guess it's the luck of the draw with a rebuilt engine.
Thanks,Hugh

[CarlG]

PM sent

[VFRhugh]

What a long strange trip it's been! The first week of July I discovered the source of an exhaust leak, broken manifold flange. No big deal manifold sets easy to replace and not that expensive. When I removed the broken parts I noticed rust in #4 exhaust port. Removing the head didn't reveal anything bad. I thought about cleaning things up and installing a new gasket but since I'd come this far might as well check the main bearing clearances also. Although I'm reasonably good with hand tools I'm not a mechanic. After studying the situation and reading all I could about shimming caps it was obvious that if I was going to be successful the engine was coming out. I took my time and had it out without any drama (no blood). What started out as a simple repair took a dark turn as I disassembled the engine. All the main caps babbitt was in bad shape. The block babbitt wasn't that worn but it was becoming obvious the skill of whoever did them was less than stellar.

It was also obvious that my engine couldn't be reassembled with the caps is such poor shape. When I purchased my A the previous owner had restored it with great care using only parts from Snyder’s. He had the engine rebuilt somewhere but I don’t know where or who.

I posted a request for engine builder references on The Barn. Knowledgeable folks contacted me through PMs but one in particular saved my bacon. Turning a potentially expensive rebuild into a $550 fix ($300 for a lift, stand, and a few tools, $250 parts). His name is Dave and goes by tbirdtbird. I sent Dave photos of my caps, crank journals, & block. Dave put me in touch with Bill Barlow in Bend, Oregon. Bill is an awesome guy that was easy to talk to and does caps. I sent him mine with my journal dimensions. Bill’s work is jewel like as you can see from the photos. Caps are $50 each exchange plus $12.65 USPS shipping. He determined from my main cap the thrust location was way off. I also had .014” thrust clearance contributing to the rear main oil leak. The inside flange of the rear block babbitt was filed to match the new main cap thrust surface. I used a Dremel tool and opened up the oil grooves in the block babbett.

Interestingly the rods were good. I have to believe different people did the rods. While I had everything apart I lightly honed the cylinders and installed new Hastings rings from Bratton’s. The distributor gear assembly was also replaced.
With Dave’s support I assembled my engine and put it back in the car a couple of days ago. There were a few moments where I doubted the outcome would be successful. Having a knowledgeable person to correspond with was very helpful. Along the way I learned a few things (how to safety wire, remove rust from an 85 year old engine block using an old speedometer cable, gap piston rings, separate shims, set clearances, torque head bolts, remove a 63# flywheel without hurting myself).

https://youtu.be/1TB_WvglfSc

I realize it’s only a stopgap measure but now I have time to plan a replacement. Once again thank you Dave and thanks for Bill Barlow.

[DJ S]

Wow! Great job on the engine repair and those oil grooves were almost non-existent!

[700rpm]

You were lucky to have found two of the most knowledgeable guys in the hobby. Dave has counciled me through a tough engine problem, and Bill has rebuilt two engines for me.

[Great Lakes Greg]

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Aw, c'mon, a ten second clip? I love hearing those engines tick, but that was just a tease.

[mshmodela]

Dave is not only one of The Gentleman here, he knows a lots about engines. I for one thank him once more for his advice.

[CWPASADENA]

Great looking repair.

You may be surprised how it runs and find there are many miles of good service left before you have to do something more.

Chris W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with Chris, you should have a good engine that can go for several thousand miles before you worry about it, or planning a replacement.

[VFRhugh]

Temporary fix follow up. It's been 9 months since the "fix". I'm getting greedy now!! Still driving 75 - 100 miles a week. Haven't had any new noises in awhile. I picked up a complete rear end with a Mitchell 26% overdrive from a fellow barner three months ago. I can't believe how it's opened up my A experience. Being able to run 50 mph without vibration is great. Without any head wind 55 is quite comfortable.
I acquired a running diamond block that happened to have a counterbalanced crank and lightened flywheel from another barner this spring. It didn't have much time on it and that's good thing . The crank and flywheel are the best parts. Main Babbitt job not so good. Ive already had Bill Barlow repour the main bearing caps. Since I have a back up I'm thinking about trying a cam and HC head in the "fixed" engine as an experiment.
The adventure continues
Hugh