1932 5-window coupe door guts sequence

[Fredb_]

I'm getting ready to put the window channels, latches, regulators etc. into my 5-window doors and was wondering if there is a sequence that I should follow to avoid having to remove something once I've got it installed. I believe that I have the majority of the parts that I need. Here are the main pieces. I've also got several small parts and rubber bumpers.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Fredb_

I'm getting ready to put the window channels, latches, regulators etc. into my 5-window doors and was wondering if there is a sequence that I should follow to avoid having to remove something once I've got it installed. I believe that I have the majority of the parts that I need. Here are the main pieces. I've also got several small parts and rubber bumpers.

[Allinger]

Here's my cheat sheet for my Sedans...
The procedure should be the same, although the glass install maybe different as the sedan glass is much longer. There are also some extra steps as I have updated my car with power locks and mounted sideview mirrors.

Consider drilling additional drainage holes in bottom front and rear of door
Os-pho rust preventive sprayed inside of lower 6 inches
Truck bed liner vs Undercoat inner bottom edge
Install hinges on car (holes forward), leave hinge screws loose.
Install Dovetail and latch in door frame
Hang door on car (If top/back rubs- loosen 3/8 firewall bolt)
Mount Sideview mirror
Run power lock wires and place door stop (Must thread wires through rubber and washer!!!)
Install door latch and handle- (lock passenger side) 12-24 screws X3 plus 3 1/4x20 bolts for handle
Set glass into window (Can place Front channel in place prior to glass-don’t glue yet) Lower front of glass panel in first vertically, rotate horizontally
Raise glass to top, hold with suction cups or Vise C-clamp with 2 scrap 2x4s from top and Place rear metal window channel from below-attach with 12x24 screw in bottom
Place Rear felt Window Channel and glue(black RTV) in upper 2/3 (Metal tabs insert and align, then bend over) lower piece has a metal track to glue into once window and crank installed so window can be down while RTV dries- Metal track held in by 10-32 or 2-24 screw on lower 1/3 of door (metal track must be out to remove door latch)
Clamp window in up position while upper side RTV dries
Lubricate back of window regulator before install
Install Window regulator mechanism
Can lubricate window channel guides after regulator rollers in place
RTV Lower third of felt Window channel and screw into door edge and lower window (allow to dry with window down)
Install Power Door Lock, support bars, speakers and complete wiring
Attach Door Panel with seal attached, handles, lock knob, armrest
Install Garnish molding

[32phil]

The door latch and remote release go in first.
Then the metal strip with the felt liner next.
Typically the felt liners slide up into the slots and then drop into the hole on top'
The other end just slides across the door structure tab.
Don' forget the 2 little bumpers that go in the bottom of the garnish and the bottom edge of the door.
The wide felt with the glass is next. Felt goes in then the glass at an angle.
The wood fillers go in next.
Hold the glass up with tape. Watch that fresh paint!
Next is the regulator.
At this point I remove both tack strips by drilling out the rivets.
You can just take out 1 rivet and rotate the strips out of the way.
This allows the regulator to slide in and up and attach to the glass channel easily.
You may have to open or close the regulator arms to snap it into the glass.
Reattach the tack strips.
practice installing some of these parts to understand how they go on and work with each other.
Also make sure all the tapped holes are tapped and the screws work smoothly.
I have done quite a few cars over the years most recently my 5 window in October.
Patience will pay off on this job.
I hope this helps. Good luck!

[BoxCar Tom]

Phil are you soaking up sunbeams?

[Fredb_]

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Thank you!

[Fredb_]

Originally Posted by 32phil

The door latch and remote release go in first.
Then the metal strip with the felt liner next.
Typically the felt liners slide up into the slots and then drop into the hole on top'
The other end just slides across the door structure tab.
Don' forget the 2 little bumpers that go in the bottom of the garnish and the bottom edge of the door.
The wide felt with the glass is next. Felt goes in then the glass at an angle.
The wood fillers go in next.
Hold the glass up with tape. Watch that fresh paint!
Next is the regulator.
At this point I remove both tack strips by drilling out the rivets.
You can just take out 1 rivet and rotate the strips out of the way.
This allows the regulator to slide in and up and attach to the glass channel easily.
You may have to open or close the regulator arms to snap it into the glass.
Reattach the tack strips.
practice installing some of these parts to understand how they go on and work with each other.
Also make sure all the tapped holes are tapped and the screws work smoothly.
I have done quite a few cars over the years most recently my 5 window in October.
Patience will pay off on this job.
I hope this helps. Good luck!

Yes this certainly helps. I’ve done a couple of early Fords but never a 32 Coupe.

[DavidG]

With all due respect, the first step is to glue in the upside down U-shaped rubber weather seal at the top of the door. Also not mentioned is the installation of the lipped rubber weather seal that fits between the glass and the horizontal steel channel. Neither of those weather seals is shown in the photos. The for and aft placement of the glass in the steel channels is critical. If the glass is not perfectly centered, the window won't close properly.

If the coupe's doors are of early or mid-year production there will be stop brackets riveted into the door inner panel. There are reproductions of the rubber stops that fit into those brackets. If the doors are of late production, the stop function is built into the regulator and not have the riveted-in stop brackets.

While I appreciate the help that moving aside or removing the two horizontal tack strips in the lower part of the door, the installation can be done without doing so. Ford did not rivet in those strips after the glass was installed.

[Fredb_]

Originally Posted by DavidG

With all due respect, the first step is to glue in the upside down U-shaped rubber weather seal at the top of the door. Also not mentioned is the installation of the lipped rubber weather seal that fits between the glass and the horizontal steel channel. Neither of those weather seals is shown in the photos. The for and aft placement of the glass in the steel channels is critical. If the glass is not perfectly centered, the window won't close properly.

If the coupe's doors are of early or mid-year production there will be stop brackets riveted into the door inner panel. There are reproductions of the rubber stops that fit into those brackets. If the doors are of late production, the stop function is built into the regulator and not have the riveted-in stop brackets.

While I appreciate the help that moving aside or removing the two horizontal tack strips in the lower part of the door, the installation can be done without doing so. Ford did not rivet in those strips after the glass was installed.

Thanks for this additional information. Yes I experienced similar situation with putting the glass into my 38 sedan and it had to be placed precisely in order for the window to function properly. I will further inspect the doors to see if they have the stops described (I think they do). I’m not sure if I understand what the rubber seal at the top of the glass is. Any picture of that or part number?

[DavidG]

Normally that upper seal is part of the kit. It is also available separately from Drake where it is listed in their online catalog as "upper door window seal, 1932-33 closed cars" for $15.75. There is an illustration of it in the Drake online catalog. Likely it is available from other suppliers as well.

The same weather seal is also used at the top of quarter and rear windows when those windows operate up and down.


Drake also offers the window stop rubber cushion for $2 each.

[Fredb_]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Normally that upper seal is part of the kit. It is also available separately from Drake where it is listed in their online catalog as "upper door window seal, 1932-33 closed cars" for $15.75. There is an illustration of it in the Drake online catalog. Likely it is available from other suppliers as well.

The same weather seal is also used at the top of quarter and rear windows when those windows operate up and down.


Drake also offers the window stop rubber cushion for $2 each.

Thanks David, this helps. Here's the rubber parts that I've currently got for my doors.


B-7020706 - Lower Seal (2)
B-7021580 - Window Channel Stop Bumper (4)
B-46440 - Door Bumper (4)
B-7021452 - Door Glass Bumpers (4)
B-7021444 - Door Glass Bumpers (4)


Sounds like I need the upper glass seals.

[BoxCar Tom]

The rivets that hold the stop brackets into the door panel are clearly visible. It may be a struggle to insert the rubber bumpers into these brackets, it certainly was in my 3W. Even with soap and water, no luck, with WD40 still a battle. So I drilled out the rivets removed the brackets, inserted the rubber bumpers and reattached the brackets.