clutch wont disengage

[jdjj]

have t-5 conversion behind 1953 flathead pickup engine putting in 1935 pickup. Using chassis engineering pedals. Speedway kit using original fork and shaft. Setting up clutch cable. Put arm on end of fork shaft to operate by cable. Can not get clutch to disengage. Throw out bearing travels almost a inch before contact to pressure plate fingers. A m using 3 finger pressure plate. Is that a normal amount of travel before contact with pressure plate. Looks to put fork at forward angle before any attempt to disengage. Seems like i would be losing leverage. When i torque pressure plate fingers are drawn in which i assume is correct but could they be to much? Parts are all and new using 10.5 pressure plate and clutch disk.

[Ronnieroadster]

To get the clutch to release you need to reduce the 1 inch free play you have. The throw out bearing needs to be as close as possible to the fingers on the pressure plate but not touching. Once you reduce the amount of free play you now have the clutch will release.
Ronnieroadster

[V8COOPMAN]

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You may have the wrong throw-out bearing. They come in "short" and "long" configurations. You may need a LONG T/O bearing. Coop

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[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by jdjj

have t-5 conversion behind 1953 flathead pickup engine putting in 1935 pickup. Using chassis engineering pedals. Speedway kit using original fork and shaft. Setting up clutch cable. Put arm on end of fork shaft to operate by cable. Can not get clutch to disengage. Throw out bearing travels almost a inch before contact to pressure plate fingers. A m using 3 finger pressure plate. Is that a normal amount of travel before contact with pressure plate. Looks to put fork at forward angle before any attempt to disengage. Seems like i would be losing leverage. When i torque pressure plate fingers are drawn in which i assume is correct but could they be to much? Parts are all and new using 10.5 pressure plate and clutch disk.

The fork should not be at a forward angle when contacting the throw out bearing. Is the fork installed on the shaft correctly, correct bearing and hub?
The fork should contact the bearing just a few degrees before the center of its arc.
Bill

[rotorwrench]

The type of clutch and throw out set up for flatheads is important. Adjustable fingers help but many replacements aren't adjustable. The Centerforce diaphragms clutches have bent fingers and add on spacers.

I stick with conventional type mechanical linkages on the old Fords. Cables and hydraulics go too far for me.

The fingers have to clear the input shaft and make good contact with the throw out bearing.

[jdjj]

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Thanks for reply. As far as the fork being installed correctly. Isnt the hole in shaft centered or is it off set? Would it make a difference to mount on other side of shaft?

[jdjj]

Is it possible to incorrectly install throw out bearing fork on shaft? Hole looks centered but is it off set? I know curved side goes against bearing. Will flipping shaft make a difference? Will it put bearing closer to pressure plate fingers?Throw out bearing travels almost a inch before making contact with pp fingers.

[alanwoodieman]

hold the clutch arm with a pair of plyers, using the plyers to move the release arm against the fingers on the clutch and adjust the pedal arm linkage to fit this--in other words remove all of the free play that is causing the long pedal movement, then let the arm come back to let it move just off fingers