The Ford Barn

Mike1291 · 03-07-2024, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wick

I finally got around to making a video on the light switch,horn rod. This might help a bunch of folks that hate working on the light switch.
It's posted on my YouTube channel named. Hookemfair garage.

Wick, thanks for the recommendation. The video had exactly what I needed to know - the position of the spider in the different switch positions. Now that I know that straight up and down is off I can fit everything in like it should

Badpuppy · 03-08-2024, 09:33 AM

In response to post #20 - My thinking is the switch control is within reach, the switch at the bottom keeps hot wires out of the column tube.

katy · 03-08-2024, 10:36 AM

Re post # 20, probably economics, having the switch down there uses less wire.

Rob Doe · 03-08-2024, 11:15 AM

Hello, a 3 year newbie here, but I've redone the light switch on our coupe. A lot of reading and research plus the physical efforts went in to the final solution. I think I can add some information of value to this thread for those that follow.

X2 on all of the above and Wick's Youtube video. All good and my experience encountered each piece of knowledge.

I resolved the issues by purchasing the expensive, made exactly to the Ford prints, light switch from Snyder's. You must buy the matching bale for the new correct switch. I bought an extra as they are not expensive:

LIGHT SWITCH BODY
Part # A-11655/67 | Model Year 28-31
Mounts on bottom of steering column. The light wire harness slips inside this unit to turn lights off and on. This is not the poor functioning import unit, this is a quality American made switch assembly made to the archive blueprints! Brass contacts are properly formed and housing is cad plated.

The black switch plate that the wires connect to for this accurate, original switch body is a thickness of .310-.315 if my memory serves me correctly. I purchased a new, correct thickness, switch plate from Tyree Harris:

Phone 804-556-5200.

03-08-2024, 09:33 AM	#22
Badpuppy Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Guthrie, OK Posts: 1,145	Re: Light Wire Harness Bucket Seized/Issues In response to post #20 - My thinking is the switch control is within reach, the switch at the bottom keeps hot wires out of the column tube.

03-08-2024, 10:36 AM	#23
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 5,046	Re: Light Wire Harness Bucket Seized/Issues Re post # 20, probably economics, having the switch down there uses less wire. __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

03-08-2024, 11:15 AM	#24
Rob Doe Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Central Illinois Posts: 494	Re: Light Wire Harness Bucket Seized/Issues Hello, a 3 year newbie here, but I've redone the light switch on our coupe. A lot of reading and research plus the physical efforts went in to the final solution. I think I can add some information of value to this thread for those that follow. X2 on all of the above and Wick's Youtube video. All good and my experience encountered each piece of knowledge. I resolved the issues by purchasing the expensive, made exactly to the Ford prints, light switch from Snyder's. You must buy the matching bale for the new correct switch. I bought an extra as they are not expensive: LIGHT SWITCH BODY Part # A-11655/67 \| Model Year 28-31 Mounts on bottom of steering column. The light wire harness slips inside this unit to turn lights off and on. This is not the poor functioning import unit, this is a quality American made switch assembly made to the archive blueprints! Brass contacts are properly formed and housing is cad plated. The black switch plate that the wires connect to for this accurate, original switch body is a thickness of .310-.315 if my memory serves me correctly. I purchased a new, correct thickness, switch plate from Tyree Harris: Phone 804-556-5200. __________________ "It ain't what you know for certain that gets ya in trouble. It's what ya know for certain that just ain't so!"