The Ford Barn

DWester · 12-21-2014, 09:10 AM

An old question I'm sure, but I'll run it by once again. After getting the correct torque on the mains, I noticed that some holes for the wire don't line up. I did a search here and found this from a few years back. Would I be good to go with Kurt's post?

This is a 1948 '59' block.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...tle+nuts+crank

Henry/Kokomo · 12-21-2014, 09:18 AM

Kurt's post seems right to me. Personally, I use the Chevy rod nuts and did not wire them. No problem thus far.

Ol' Ron · 12-21-2014, 09:38 AM

You can buy grade 8 nuts from your local auto supply, been doing this for years.

DWester · 12-21-2014, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

You can buy grade 8 nuts from your local auto supply, been doing this for years.

Would you do the same for the rods Ron? When I took this motor apart, it had keeper/retainer nuts behind the rod nuts.

rotorwrench · 12-21-2014, 09:59 AM

In the aviation world, we use a multitude of hardware that is either safety wired or cotter pinned. the common practice is to use a thin washer under the nut if it won't make torque up with an acceptable alignment. The next option is to go on to the next castellation but sometimes it stretches the threads & fastener too much. FoMoCo used pal nuts on the con rod caps in the early 8BA era but finally realized that if properly torqued, a pal nut was not necessary. Aerospace still has a practice of double safety on all control system hardware but there are several ways to do it. Some, like Robinson Helicopters, still use pal nuts. Others use castellated elastic stop nuts and cotter pins.

Ronnie · 12-21-2014, 11:07 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DWester

Would you do the same for the rods Ron? When I took this motor apart, it had keeper/retainer nuts behind the rod nuts.

Just use Chevy 350 rod nuts they will work just fine.Install them and torque and they will never come loose. There are 100,000,000,000 + of them running down the freeway all day long.

R

40 Deluxe · 12-21-2014, 11:52 AM

Just threading some wire through the holes is not really "safety wiring" it! If you look at some wiring jobs, you can visualize the bolt/nut backing off a quarter turn or more before the wire does any good. Oops, too late! There is an art to a proper safety wiring job. The wire has to be routed so that when it is twisted tight, it is in effect pulling the bolt/nut tighter.

deuce_roadster · 12-21-2014, 02:41 PM

I worry less about the nut and more about the forged "bolt" part of the rod.

supereal · 12-21-2014, 03:16 PM

The correct torque for mains is 75-80 ft lbs. For rods with castellated nuts, 35-40, with self locking, 40-45.

DWester · 12-21-2014, 03:53 PM

That's right. Studs with nuts are 80 and bolts are 100.

12-21-2014, 09:10 AM	#1
DWester Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Fort Jones, Calif Posts: 94	Castle nuts and correct torque An old question I'm sure, but I'll run it by once again. After getting the correct torque on the mains, I noticed that some holes for the wire don't line up. I did a search here and found this from a few years back. Would I be good to go with Kurt's post? This is a 1948 '59' block. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...tle+nuts+crank __________________ Darol

12-21-2014, 09:18 AM	#2
Henry/Kokomo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kokomo, Indiana Posts: 1,731	Re: Castle nuts and correct torque Kurt's post seems right to me. Personally, I use the Chevy rod nuts and did not wire them. No problem thus far. __________________ Henry

12-21-2014, 09:38 AM	#3
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,857	Re: Castle nuts and correct torque You can buy grade 8 nuts from your local auto supply, been doing this for years.

12-21-2014, 09:59 AM	#5
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,424	Re: Castle nuts and correct torque In the aviation world, we use a multitude of hardware that is either safety wired or cotter pinned. the common practice is to use a thin washer under the nut if it won't make torque up with an acceptable alignment. The next option is to go on to the next castellation but sometimes it stretches the threads & fastener too much. FoMoCo used pal nuts on the con rod caps in the early 8BA era but finally realized that if properly torqued, a pal nut was not necessary. Aerospace still has a practice of double safety on all control system hardware but there are several ways to do it. Some, like Robinson Helicopters, still use pal nuts. Others use castellated elastic stop nuts and cotter pins.

12-21-2014, 11:52 AM	#7
40 Deluxe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: now Kuna, Idaho Posts: 3,778	Re: Castle nuts and correct torque Just threading some wire through the holes is not really "safety wiring" it! If you look at some wiring jobs, you can visualize the bolt/nut backing off a quarter turn or more before the wire does any good. Oops, too late! There is an art to a proper safety wiring job. The wire has to be routed so that when it is twisted tight, it is in effect pulling the bolt/nut tighter.

12-21-2014, 02:41 PM	#8
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,799	Re: Castle nuts and correct torque I worry less about the nut and more about the forged "bolt" part of the rod.

12-21-2014, 03:16 PM	#9
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: Castle nuts and correct torque The correct torque for mains is 75-80 ft lbs. For rods with castellated nuts, 35-40, with self locking, 40-45.

12-21-2014, 03:53 PM	#10
DWester Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Fort Jones, Calif Posts: 94	Re: Castle nuts and correct torque That's right. Studs with nuts are 80 and bolts are 100. __________________ Darol Last edited by DWester; 12-21-2014 at 04:00 PM.