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#1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Plains of Montana
Posts: 18
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1950 F1
Just from cranking several times in an effort to start the truck, I've got oil coming out past the seal on the oil canister lid. Good oil pressure, I guess ![]() Thanks for your help. |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sweden
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Is the restrictor in place on the inlet to the filter ??
Otherwise you will get a leak like that. And the returnline to the oilpan not clogged ? |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
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The oil should enter the filter through a .060 restrictor and exit the filter through two .060 holes. There should not be any pressure build up inside the filter housing (not enough to cause a leak if it is sealed properly). I would make sure the restrictor is in place.
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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If this is a new installation check the return line fitting on the oil pan is open to the interior of the pan.
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#5 |
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If you have the correct gasket seated in the lid, and firmly tightened I don't see how Ford oil pressure could push thru and leak even if the restrictor holes were plugged solid. Check the lid and cannister gasket surfaces. JMO
John Last edited by oldford2; 02-18-2020 at 07:37 AM. |
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#6 |
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#7 |
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I agree. You have pressure on the inlet and a gravity drain. You will pressurize the canister.
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#8 |
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Well, it is not exactly gravity drain. The canister is pressurized because of the inflow of oil through the restrictor. But, the flow is being restricted. The grain holes see the same pressure in the canister, but should be capable of twice the flow out. Not sure how to calculate the canister pressure without thinking about it a bit, but if flow out can approach double the flow in there should be a lower pressure in the canister vs oil supple pressure. Regardless, there will be some pressure in there and the lid needs a good seal. Also, the filter material will restrict the flow and increase the pressure around it. If there was not a pressure differential the oil would not move through the filter. Another reason for the outlet having twice the flow as the inlet.
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#9 |
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I think I may have posted this before> In our 46 there is a restrictor hole in the stand pipe and also another where the drain goes into the pan:
restrictor.jpg |
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#10 |
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Location: Coral Springs FL
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Is this the style canister you have? You might just need a new gasket.
Make sure it is completely seated and doesn't shift during tightening. |
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#11 |
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When you buy a new filter the correct gasket is included
CARQUEST # cfi 85516 Unless he is trying to use an old gasket and filter He has not responded to folks trying to help him? Last edited by oldford2; 02-18-2020 at 07:26 PM. |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Plains of Montana
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Sorry for not responding.
I am absorbing as much info as possible. I can't reply to every question with an answer. I have only short chunks of time when I can go to the vehicle and try to accomplish something. Its not nearby, its outside and its winter. I did reuse the old gasket because initially I couldn't get the filter out. The oil leaked when I got the engine to crank. 2nd attempt I got the filter out but did not replace. Cranked more and watched the oil ooze into the canister. I reached in and felt a ton of sludge at the bottom. Tomorrow I will clean the canister out as well as the return line and see what happens. Thanks for your time! I love that so much knowledge and experience is offered by all of you. PS. The truck came with some old Atlas filters. Ok to use or should I get new filters? Thanks! |
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#13 |
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if the filters are sealed and have been stored correctly there should be no problems but if in dout throw them out engines cost a lot more than a filter
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#14 |
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On mine I really have to crank down the lid bolt to keep it from leaking, and I ended up putting two new gaskets on it, instead of one. There is a lot of pressure in there, even with the restriction.
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#15 |
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The pressure pushes the oil through the filter. There is a pressure drop between the inlet and drain due to this. This means the drain hole sees less pressure than the inlet.
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#16 | |
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Location: East Hartford, Ct
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The oil returns via (2) .063 dia. holes in the center stand tube that are located about the same level as the input fitting on the side of the canister. Make sure the canister return line is clear as well as the (2) holes in center tube. If the filters you have are new old stock they should be OK to use.
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#17 |
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Thank you for posting the picture with the holes in the drain tube!
I got it apart as much as possible, cleaned out the sludge, pulled the drain line, but couldn't get anything to come out the bottom. I stared at it and thunk hard about how oil gets out. I was dumbfounded. Those little holes escaped my attention for a long time. Someone had mentioned them earlier, but I just couldn't figure it out. Thanks everybody for your help! |
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#18 |
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Does this help any?
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#19 |
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Vermont
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Thanks for contributing to this thread, it gave me great info. I do have a couple of questions?
I recently purchased a 1939 Mercury eight chassis with a "running" 239. I plan on using it in a 1941 ford Tudor project I have. So I built a stand to mount the engine and radiator so I could run the engine and see what it needs. It has nice compression in all cylinders but when I pulled the oil pan and filter it had a lot of sludge. So I cleaned it all and ordered the filter for the canister. When I got the filter I went to install but I could not see how the oil could drain. I cannot find the two .063 holes in the tube and on further inspection the inlet does not seem to be a restriction of any sort. Looks like a .25" fitting. It appears that when it last ran the filter path was plugged solid so oil must be in bypass. I'd like to have a filter when I crank this engine up and test run. So my question is can I buy the inlet restriction fitting and can I just drill new return holes in the tube? Any insight or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dan |
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#20 |
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I would bet the return holes are there, they can be hard to see. There is really no reason they would not be there unless it has been modified for some reason, which would be odd. The restrictor on the inlet side can likewise be somewhat difficult to locate. It could in at the fitting coming out of the block or inside a T-type fitting going into the canister. It can probably be in other locations.
If you find you do need to add a restrictor they are available, they are also used on turbo-chargers. |
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#21 |
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Location: East Hartford, Ct
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Plug the outlet on the canister and use an air gun to blow air into the center tube.
This should aid in locating any unplugged holes in the tube or blow clear any plugged holes.
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#22 |
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Location: Vermont
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[QUOTE=JSeery;1883898]I would bet the return holes are there, they can be hard to see. There is really no reason they would not be there unless it has been modified for some reason, which would be odd. The restrictor on the inlet side can likewise be somewhat difficult to locate. It could in at the fitting coming out of the block or inside a T-type fitting going into the canister. It can probably be in other locations.
Thanks, I'm sure they are there but they are really plugged and hidden. I have applied 100psi on the tube and no leaks so they have been that way a long time. I'd feel a lot better about drilling a relief hole if I knew I had a restrictor on the inlet. I'll have a look at the supply end near the oil pressure sending unit maybe it is there. Thanks again for the reply Dan |
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#23 |
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Thanks 51 MERC-CT, I have tried that and 100psi won't break it loose.
Thanks, Dan |
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#24 |
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Sounds like it's time to remove the canister and the lines and clean them out.
You may have solidified sludge. |
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