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#21 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Gonzales, LA
Posts: 457
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I will search Old Henry's block flushing method and try that. I pulled the radiator last night and will take it to the shop this morning. I have also wondered if timing was an issue leading to this problem. How do I know if the dist. is advancing? I'll admit I am very ignorant when it comes to timing and advance. The reason I have wondered about timing is that at idle, I get a consistent "pop" from the exhaust and it is especially pronounced while shifting between 1st and 2nd when the clutch is pressed and the load is removed from the engine. Could these two things be related? By the way, you guys are great! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
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#22 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Manawatu, New Zealand
Posts: 1,416
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As mentioned previously they (well at least mine) will puke if overfilled simply due to thermal expansion. Its happy running level may be lower than you think. Karl
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Such a fine sight to see-Its a Girl, My Lord, in a Flatbed Ford slowin' down to take a look at me. |
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#23 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Manawatu, New Zealand
Posts: 1,416
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Sorry I have put him wrong in my last post -I thought it was only 34's
Always nice to learn something ! Karl
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Such a fine sight to see-Its a Girl, My Lord, in a Flatbed Ford slowin' down to take a look at me. |
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#24 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 52
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I went through all you are with my 35 five window. A new core solved the problem. 80 yr. old cores dont cut it especialy with newer pumps. I just cover the cores cold.
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,871
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Right on with just filling to the top of the cores. Water seeks it's own level in the system. I may have missed it somewhere in the post. Is the radiator original, was cleaned and flow tested. I have seen mice nests in the radiator tanks, and similar debris in the heads of stored engines.
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#26 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lyman,ME.
Posts: 2,630
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#27 | |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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The timing is also controlled by the points being set correctly. |
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#28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 468
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I like "BMWILLIA" , the original poster (OP) and here is why. He came to this forum with a question about a problem he is experiencing and was clear in laying out the situation. He has studied the various advices and "opinions" presented. He has followed up with answers to our questions.
He then set out on a logical process to identify and isolate and hopefully cure the problem. Doesn't happen all the time. Hopefully we haven't failed him. That would be bad. |
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#29 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: sydney australia
Posts: 1,034
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Hi im with "chap 42" on this check your timing my advance played up intermittantly sticking [not fully advancing] and boy did it reek havoc with the temp and a real cow to workout But dont discount any of the other suggestions as they all ring true. PS Keep us up to date its always good to here it worked out for you and what caused it
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#30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Gonzales, LA
Posts: 457
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Here is the latest update:
Pulled the radiator and brought it to the local shop. They are looking into it. In the mean time, I am flushing the block. Have the driver side soaking in some rust kill/simple green. Ran out of time yesterday to get the passenger side soaking. Will drain the driver side this weekend, pull the water pumps and flush with a water hose and start the passenger side soak. I also have the Greyhound cap rebuilt with a kit from Mac's. It looks like a much better set up than the one I had. I have emailed Skip to see about his 3lb overflow check valve but have not heard back yet. will probably have to call him. After reading FlatFord8's post I'm going to take a look at my plug wires and make sure I don't have any crossed up as far as firing order. Once I get the radiator back, I'll put it all back together and run it and see what happens.
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#31 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Brad, are you working on adding some thermostats?
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#32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Gonzales, LA
Posts: 457
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I have looked for some, but the only ones I have found made like the 33-34 ones are for the Model A. They are 150 degree stats. Not sure if those will work.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#33 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
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IMO you need at least 180-185 deg or even 190 deg. You about have to use the modern style thermostats or the inline ones by (not sure of the name, LOL). The second photo is the more common way to locate them, or us a sleeve inside the hose and a second clamp.
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#34 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Gonzales, LA
Posts: 457
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I have a 1935 motor with the pumps attached to the front of the heads so your second photo is not an option.
I'll keep looking for option 1.
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#35 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Cozumel and Deming N.M.
Posts: 87
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Hi , have been reading this forum about overheating problems. Also older dated forums here about heat.
I finally saw where the 3pd pressure release thing went. Location Was not mentioned previously in 2013 ending date forum. Anyhow i just purchased a 1941 super deluxe with a 1951 flathead in it. Darn thing is pretty neat to drive. I have the problem where it can sit and run, come up to temp and be just fine. Temp being 180. Should mention it seems to have a newer type distributor with a vacuum from carb advance. If you drive it after a bit it pukes water out the overflow, quite a bit actually. It has new pumps, thermostats and water hoses installed from previous owner. I suspect the radiator may be the problem as it is the one that has the space in the middle and looks older. My 1st problem is they do not show one listed my size. It is like 27 tall, 19 wide with double outlets top and bottom. Radiator guy might be able to re rod it but not sure till I get it to him. Would rather just buy new. I am going to try the deflector idea from earlier post, mayb out of cardboard 1st to see what happens. Other idea is, Can I just plug the overflow tube for now? New to flatheads but its gonna be fun. I guess to summarize my questions as I rambled on there a little 1. Can I pinch overflow pipe closed 2. Should I maybe get different water pumps 3. Where can I find the tall skinny radiator? Anyhow thanks for your patience |
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#36 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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NO experience with these, just know they exist.
Robert Shewman PO Box 163 Kimberton, PA 19442 Email: [email protected] |
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#37 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Qld, Australia
Posts: 4,216
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T/stats are easy to do , get a set of modern ones from the store ,get a short length of SS tube the same diameter as the inside of the rad hose,tig weld the stats to the tube ,machine off the excess flange and just push them up into the top hoses.
let me know if you want a pic Lawrie |
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#38 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,527
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#39 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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#40 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lower Hutt , New Zealand
Posts: 2,126
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When I had my 46 I put some of that powdered stuff ( was Motorcraft) in the rad and run if for a while it bubbled and foamed and overflowed for a while but it cleaned out the crud and you could eventually see nice copper down the radiator throat. no problems after that.
GB
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