master cylinder

[Raffyjoy1102]

Hi to all,

I have a brand new master cylinder for a 1939 1/2 ton pickup. I am unable to open/remove the filler cap, i don't want to force it for fear of ruining it. I want to bench bleed it prior to installation, Anybody out there who has experienced this?

[19Fordy]

Put it in a vise. Use a wrench with a long breaker bar, like a piece of hollow pipe.

[Raffyjoy1102]

Thanks for the tip 19fordy

[richard crow]

i meet it all the time for some reason people think you have to tighten the cap very tight. most m.s are made of cast iron & the caps alum. now add brake fluid witch attracts mosture & six months later even king kong cant remove it. i have had to brake some caps remember to just make the cap snug. a little over hand tight if you use dot 5 you dont have this problem a lot of the replament m.c have plastic caps i guess they finely figred it out

[V8COOPMAN]

Lefty-loosie! Dd

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Put it in a vise. Use a wrench with a long breaker bar, like a piece of hollow pipe.

Is there such a thing as UN-HOLLOW pipe? DD

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Put it in a vise. Use a wrench with a long breaker bar, like a piece of hollow pipe.

19Fourdy......You DO know what the technical definition of PIPE is, don't you? DD




QUALITY ASSURANCE

SPECIFICATION WAP-007
PAGE 1 OF 1
REVISION 0

PIPING SPECIFICATIONS



All pipe is to be made of a long hole, surrounded by metal centered around the hole.
All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length.
All pipe is to be of the very best quality, preferably tubular or pipular.
All acid-proof pipe is to be made of acid proof metal.
Outer-diameter of all pipes must exceed the inner-diameter. Otherwise, the hole will be on the outside of the pipe.
All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole so that water, steam, or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.
All pipe is to be supplied without rust, as this can be more readily put on at the jobsites.
All pipe is to be cleaned free of any covering such as mud, tar, barnacles or any form of manure before putting up, otherwise it will make lumps under the paint.
All pipe over 500 feet in length must have the words "Long Pipe" clearly painted on each end so that the fitter will know that it is a long pipe.
All pipe over two miles in length must also have these words painted on the middle so that the fitter will not have to walk the full length of the pipe to determine if it is long pipe or not.
All pipe over six inches in diameter is to have the words "Large Pipe" painted on it, so that the fitter will not use it for small pipe.
All pipe fittings are to be made of the same stuff as the pipe.
All pipe closers are to be open on one end. No fittings are to be put on pipe unless specified. If you do, straight pipes become crooked pipes.

[Gary in La.]

You left out a most important one. In the deep south Louisiana bayous a water hose used to be called a "hosepipe" years ago.

[Tinker]

If it's new its got a plastic top. A large monkey wrench or better a large needle nose will get it open (leverage to them little ears they put on). Every opportunity it seems they replace things with plastic.

[Raffyjoy1102]

The MC is brand new, out of the box, exact replica of a 1939 ford MC from MAC's (Part #: 47-20092-1, Alt Part #: 91A-2140-US OEM Part #: 91A-2140) the filler cap is not plastic.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by richard crow

i meet it all the time for some reason people think you have to tighten the cap very tight. most m.s are made of cast iron & the caps alum. now add brake fluid witch attracts mosture & six months later even king kong cant remove it. i have had to brake some caps remember to just make the cap snug. a little over hand tight if you use dot 5 you dont have this problem a lot of the replament m.c have plastic caps i guess they finely figred it out

Richard:

Have you been using Dot 5 with these old systems? Curious what you think of it?

Tim

[19Fordy]

Holey Moley V8. Good info. Here's a hollow pipe.
https://www.google.com/search?q=pipe...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[Aarongriffey]

I’ve used DOT5 in my 1951 F1 since 1999.
When I changed it over to a 1972 F100 rear end I bled the rear brakes. I reused the rear wheel cylinders that were new when I put in the dot 5. Otherwise I have bone nothing to the brakes, except check the fluid once or twice.
I love Dot 5, but in customer’s cars I use DOT 4. Takes less explaining and ok if they add DOT 3.
DOT 5 will not harm paint.
Some folks say you’ll never get a good pedal, no matter how much time you spend bleeding it. I have never found that.
I worked nine years for a guy with over 400 collector cars.
Some had been converted to hydraulic. The owner hated hydraulics because of the corrosion and leak possibilities. He’d have me change brake lines and wheel n master cylinders and always use Dot 5 in hopes of never getting corrosion problems.
If I did everything, tubes, hoses and five cylinders, say on a 32 roadster, I could do the whole job with one pint of dot five.
I don’t remember what othe pre ‘39 cars we had that were hydraulic.
When I first started there he wanted to take an MGTF to an MG show a couple of miles away.
He said since it had all new brakes it had never been driven. OK. Well we couldn’t move the car. All five cylinders were corroded. Seized up. I suggested we use Dot 5. We did.
And used it in every car after that.
It’s great to use in clutch and brake systems of vehicles there not riven much.
My pickup has set outside or in an open ended carport since NewYears Eve of 1999 and the front brakes have never been touched, except for adjustment.
I think I’ll flush them since we are just staying home now. Maybe all my cars.