1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by tubman

I don't care what anyone says; that is in NICE shape!

Tubman,
Thanks for the comments! Man I am trying to learn a whole new language.
I repaired the left front hood latch last night so that the knob on the spring would not pull through. It was worn. I was very surprised that the nuts on the screws loosened and I was able to remove it and gently close up the worn slot by moving the metal on both sides closer. Minor enlargement of the screw holes so the bolt pattern would align with the car. This could have fallen off on a road trip or been easily lost. Not a expert on any of these items but years of doing other refurb work, gives me some skills to correct and repair items if at all possible.

One thing I kind of like on a unit that your not going to strip and paint is that the time to fix this one item was maybe a hour. but required no real clean up or paint. Original hardware went right back in after cleaning the threads and apply a little lube.

Regards,
Chris

[tubman]

I can't help myself; here is a picture of a "deuce, dually ... truck" I found (it is European).

[Floyd]

My comment about "new-old" seat cover would be to find some period correct for the truck material and use that IF you cannot find old correct material that is somewhat worn but not worn out. I agree that worn out/torn/ ripped/ stained material is not acceptable. You want it to look nice and inviting but somewhat lived in to go with the patina of the truck. This might be the hardest part to getting the truck show ready.
Be brave and give him a good bath. Then you will be done with the exterior "restoration"!

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by tubman

I can't help myself; here is a picture of a "deuce, dually ... truck" I found (it is European).

tubman,
Ok that was not what I was expecting! Someone had way to much time on there hands that summer! Wow! I can see some similarities!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by Floyd

My comment about "new-old" seat cover would be to find some period correct for the truck material and use that IF you cannot find old correct material that is somewhat worn but not worn out. I agree that worn out/torn/ ripped/ stained material is not acceptable. You want it to look nice and inviting but somewhat lived in to go with the patina of the truck. This might be the hardest part to getting the truck show ready.
Be brave and give him a good bath. Then you will be done with the exterior "restoration"!

Floyd,
I think your right on the money here at least with my way of thinking. I want it nice enough anyone could climb in and be somewhat comfortable.
Regards,
Chris

[Bob C]

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Snyders has new seat springs S-806 and S-807.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/S...ord?word=s-806

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Random pictures:
Straightened the louvers this side:


Reverse lock out:


Right side engine for David:










Door checks missing:


Start cable (needs work)






Map holder??


Behind rear seat crusty but there:




Light switch:


mirror:




Found this in my tool cabinet have had for many years I tred it and it works for water pump.


Door damage and new old handle installed:




Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Some more:
Good luck key fob. Not sure what position key comes out?? Sorry not good picture!


Hub cap:


Into the brakes: Steel from the pedal to the wheel!:










Regards,
Chris

[jimTN]

Woven linings are better than molded linings and those look good. You have lots of "correct" stuff on that truck.

[hd1937]

Chris,
Many tire options available, here’s just one.

Jim

https://www.millertire.com/6-00-20-f...py-truck-tire/

[Zeke3]

That is a great looking, original truck. It would be good to treat the areas where there were mouse nests with Ospho or some other rust neutralizing product.

[DavidG]

As jimTN noted, lots of original, correct, stuff on your truck.

[sugarmaker]

Ford folks,
Thanks guys For the brake info. So could these be used as is? I took the clevis off this brake rod and the bottom mechanism moves down and moves the shoes out.

Havent touched the 32 today. Helped at our local tractor show grounds.
As I cleaned up the outer wheel bearing, I can see FORD script on the inner race!

Random stuff:


Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by hd1937

Chris,
Many tire options available, here’s just one.

Jim

https://www.millertire.com/6-00-20-f...py-truck-tire/

Jim,
Thanks, They (Miller) are in Wauseon! We could load up your Doodle Tug and Bug and head out for the show and pick up tires, tubes and flaps for the 32! I think it may be a big Allis show??
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Snyders has new seat springs S-806 and S-807.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/S...ord?word=s-806

Bob,
I saw those for like $150 or less that might be the right way to get the correct units. Then I would need to make the wood bases?? Or do the bases come withe them? I may try to call them Monday.
Getting all three spring units new might be the way to go. The back has been whipped on pretty hard also, and the spring assembly needs repairs.
Regards,
Chris

[jimTN]

This should go without saying but if you are not familiar with truck rims, when those tires are mounted, they should be in a cage when inflated and a clamp on inflater used. Clean those woven linings with a commercial brake cleaning spray. Also use a covid mask when working on those brakes because they are most likely asbestos.

[sugarmaker]

JimTN, Folks,
Thanks for the reminders I do understand the safety aspects of the split rims. They are at a tire shop and they have the cage to re assemble these.
Glad I was setting down last night as I got the prices of the 6,00-20 Firestone tires, tubes and flaps. Just about $300 per wheel for the new rubber. & are on the list on the list.
The linings on this one brake system, I did spray down with brake clean. I will not fuss with the Asbestos shoe material with out a mask. Thanks for the reminder.
Ok, So I have a plan for seats, tires and brakes. Total cost would be about $3k. So like most things this will stretch over some time to allow some funds to be available.
I have done several tractors and other things and there usually is plenty to do to be ready to spend money. I also still need to get the books David G recommended.
Then the engine. Well I did pick up new spark plugs at NAPA. Beyond that I will start to look at basic items and systems. Fuel, Ignition, compression, and timing! Fluids and tuneup would be on the list too.
Way much to learn on this truck! But on the other hand these are very similar to the 4 cyl tractors I have been working on for 6-7 years. I like the simplicity.

Thanks for checking in on me! Hope things are good in FORD land!
Regards,
Chris

[Floyd]

A set of NOS seat springs would be great but probably not going to happen. Snyder's is the go-to for springs. Their new ones will fit and work just fine. Old spring sets are broken and worn out and in most cases not worth messing with.
As to the brakes, the way to make them perfect is to check each and every clevis , pin and rod hole. You will find them with some or a lot of play. When you add up all the links that are in series you get a lot of slop and the brakes will never be acceptable. The solution is to buy the oversize pins from one of the good vendors (you want hardened pins) and fit them. the clevis's will be OK but you may find some of the rod holes worn too big. These can be welded up or look for good Ford rods to replace. The bushings in the cross shaft assembly will be shot and need to be dealt with. I am not familiar with the pieces for big trucks but you can probably find (with Fordbarn help) the cams, links and pins for the mechanisms in the backing plates. None of this is expensive but will take time to do and when done (perfectly) you will have "new truck" brakes. No shortcuts allowed or you will defeat the whole process. I know that perfectly done brakes on a '32 car will stop as good as any system.
I am still curious about who will be the hero that shows up with correct seat upholstery material. The new springs with quality padding will make for a comfy ride.

[38Coupe]

Nice truck! Congrats!

[DavidG]

Chris,


You should be able to withdraw the key in the full clockwise position which occurs when the steering column shaft is locked in place.