Removing transmission 1947 Mercury

[justanotherguy]

Has anyone actually done this according to the shop manual?

Hi kids, So I've had the engine and transmission (side loader BTW)
out of my (basically stock) '47 Merc a few times. Each time, I did this by going out the front... once with engine and trans connected and twice with them separated. Other than some grunting and a few choice words, each procedure went fairly well. Now, I need to remove the transmission again. This is a running/driving car. Everything is neat and tidy in the engine compartment, so I thought I'd do what the shop manuals suggests and remove the torque tube, then remove the trans out the inside of the cabin. The torque tube came out easier than I expected. (How often does that happen?) Propping up the engine and disconnecting the trans bolts... no sweat. The rear saddle mount has been removed. Time to slide back the trans to clear the input shaft from the clutch... Problem! The trans housing/casting won't slide back far enough to clear the shaft... It hits the inside of the frame and/or top of the floorboard hump with the rear mount bosses. I need at least another 1/2 of rearward movement to clear... and it's just not there. I raised/lowered both the engine and trans numerous times and angles, and still can find the sweet spot where the trans can lift out? What am I missing? Has anyone actually done this successfully? (I assume 46-48 Ford is the same) Thanks.

[Bursonaw]

I have done this many times on my 41 Ford. I think your car may have the same setup. Once you remove the floor cover for the transmission there is another small plate on the firewall just over the top housing of the transmission. It’s about 6” long and has a few screws to hold it in place. This should give you the 1/2” your looking for. It might be hidden under the inside fire wall cover.


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[justanotherguy]

Hi Bursonaw, I forgot to mention that I have already removed that plate. It still didn't give me enough room.

[justanotherguy]

I'll also add that I had a couple friends over at the time who also own, and have built flathead coupes, although older '34-'36. None had done this procedure as written in the shop manual and and none of us could figure this method out. We had people on top and underneath with bright LEDs blazing and the consensus was either fagetaboutit or start over and go out the front, or contact this forum.

[Bursonaw]

The only thing I can think of and it sounds like you may have done this. I use a scissors jack under the oil pan and lift the engine up to where the transmission housing is almost touching the firewall before I slide it out. I’ve loosened the front motor mounts as not to cause to much stress on the front engine mounts.


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[justanotherguy]

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Yup... did that... even went past the firewall to see what would happen on the rear side, knowing that I'd have to lower the engine again to get the housing to clear the firewall. I didn't think Mercs were different than Fords from the firewall back. I only thought they were longer from the firewall forward. But now I'm wondering if something in that crossmember is in a different location, and all the "Ford" manuals are really just for Ford.

[Bursonaw]

Good luck, if you find the magic formula I would be interested in the result. Sorry I could not be of further help.


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[justanotherguy]

Bursonaw, thanks for your attempt anyway. I appreciate it.

[Bursonaw]

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[cas3]

well, i am not a 47 merc guy, but i wonder how you get the torque tube out with out moving the rear end back? and, if you only need a 1/2", cant you rotate the trans so the bottom sump area is not hitting the x member? , like, 90* to the right? never been there, just some thoughts

[Talkwrench]

If its anything like my 35 pickup you have to install the rear mount [bearing retainer] after . But I think you've done that..??

[slowforty]

After sliding the trans back,
You may have to twist the transmission to the right to clear the crossmember.
Then you can remove the trans.

[justanotherguy]

Slowforty, I think that might be it. I just came in from the garage after staring at this again... by myself... no other distractions, and I came to the same conclusion that if the engine/trans is jacked way up as far as it can go yet clear the firewall, then I pull back and rotate the trans housing (I'm thinking counter clockwise from inside the car to clear the side shift levers) that it could just work. So that's the next plan, when I can go work on it again.

[justanotherguy]

cas3... YES, you have the right idea too! I'm going to try it hopefully tomorrow. The torque tube, dif, rear axle, springs, are all one unit. After disconnecting things like shocks, sway bar, brakes etc, then I placed a set of old rims on to protect the drums, unbolted the leaf springs and with a few tugs, it drops down and slides right back. I moved it about 8" which is more than enough to make room up front.

[Automotive Stud]

I'm probably not a ton of help here, but I took the transmission out of my '47 Ford through the top after I pulled the rear about fifteen years ago. I don't recall there really being any problem, maybe just need to come back fresh and keep wiggling it.

[Marvin/TN]

I had a 48 Merc back in 57 or 58, Those Cluster gears were a little fraggle so I had to replace my Trans a few times. If I remember right I took it out from the bottom and put it back the same way. I use to drop it, well not drop it, bring it down and rest it on my chest and belly, did the reverse putting one back in.. I supported the car up high enough to roll the rear end assy back. Reverse things to go back in. I sure couldn't do that today. It was cheaper to buy a complete used Trans than a new Cluster Gear. Think I was paying $12-$15 and the junk yard removed it.

[justanotherguy]

AN UPDATE (but not what we wanted to hear)

So a few more hours were spent on this 10 minute job today. The consensus from all three knuckleheads in attendance, is that it can't be done according to the manual.
Marvin/TN – In order to go out the bottom, the wishbone would need to be dropped, and even then it won't work on this old Merc.
We managed to rotate the trans well over 90° both right and left which indeed gave us hope, but still we needed 1/4"-1/2" more travel to have the input shaft clear the pressure plate, at any angle... this is with the housing hitting the backside of the chassis and then some.
Now, during the time I have my face smashed up against the trans housing from under the car... and attempting to peer into the gap between engine and trans with flashlights blazing in all directions (mostly in my eyes) I became aware of one possible cause for this snag. The clutch and pressure plate had been replaced previously. I'm wondering if the pressure plate from Fort Wayne Clutch is just "thicker" enough that the input shaft won't clear. Perhaps a stock '47 Ford part pressure plate is just thin enough that the shaft can squeeze out. This is speculation until I can call them tomorrow. And let me be clear... I have had nothing but great experience from Fort Wayne Clutch... those guys are awesome. So if it turns out to be the pressure plate, it's on me for not being able to predict the future.
Stay tuned for a possible update.

Unrelated: For Sale: 1947 Mercury, partially disassembled... new clutch and pressure plate from Fort Wayne Clutch... torque tube and several flash lights, sold separately.

[TomO]

The last time that I did this on a 1947 Mercury was in 1952, so I don't remember everything I did. The engine has to be jacked up enough to allow the back of the transmission to clear the floor pan hump for the torque tube. The back end of the trans has to be inside the car before the input shaft will clear the clutch.



Post some photos showing your problem areas if you cannot slide the trans back inside the car.

[justanotherguy]

Mystery solved: I slept on it. Then I got up this morning, and with only one cup of coffee (it usually takes 3) went out to the garage to take some measurements. Taking measurements from another flathead block with stock clutch attached, that pressure plate protrudes 7/8” into the trans housing. The Pressure plate I got from Fort Wayne Clutch protrudes 1 1/4” into the trans housing. And that my friends, is the 3/8” difference that I needed to clear everything. Not an issue if everything comes out the front. Mystery solved. Now, where did I put my left handed radiator wrench?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by justanotherguy

Mystery solved: The Pressure plate I got from Fort Wayne Clutch protrudes 1 1/4” into the trans housing. And that my friends, is the 3/8” difference that I needed to clear everything. Not an issue if everything comes out the front. Mystery solved. Now, where did I put my left handed radiator wrench?

So, although it may end-up being somewhat awkward to handle, shouldn't you be able to reach each of the six pressure plate bolts and remove as you turn the flywheel over for access? This would leave the P-plate kind of dangling on the transmission input shaft as you pull the trans rearward and upward, but it should now give you the room you need. And put a NEW, less cumbersome clutch on that thing before replacing the trans, eh? GOOD detective work! DD