New to the Y Block!

[Tinker]

I just picked up a y-block, it looks to be a 57 292/312 ecz-c block and has ecz heads . It's on a home made roller setup and had been run from time to time. Last time was 07.

After new plug wires and cleaning and setting the points it started up and ran well.

I have searched the web but I couldn't find any numbers on the y-block for a cylinder compression test. What can I hope for? After further investigation I read that it needs or is good at 130-150psi. Agreed?

Another question I had was about the ecz-c code on the block. Is the only way to tell if it's a 292 or 312 is if it has the ecz main caps? Or is it a 312 because it's a ecz-c block?

Thank you.

[Tinker]

Picture.

[rick55]

By the numbers you have given it could be either 292 or 312.
The main caps are one way to check but you can also check the flywheel mounting flange. Check this site for the different markings which denote 312 on the flange.
http://www.ford-y-block.com/crankshaftid.htm
This site is the best source of info and specs. If your engine is 312 it will have a dot on the surface of the flange where shown.
The situation with compression readings is that anything from 130 up would be reasonable on an engine that has been sitting for so long. You should not see any more than 20 pound between the best and the worst.
While cranking remove the valve covers to check that valves are all opening. Y's are notorious for sticking valves on engines that haven't run for a while. Also keep the throttle wide open when cranking/testing compression.
Regards

[Y-Blockhead]

You mentioned you had it running? While the valve covers are off check for oil flow to the rockers. Y-Blocks are known for top end oiling problems along with the sticking valves/bent push rod problems rick55 mentioned.

i noticed in the picture that the dip stick and tube are missing. How are you checking oil level?

Welcome to Y-Blocks and the Ford Barn.

[Tinker]

Thank you both for your answers.

To explain my direction. I want a good runner that i can put in my 57 panel that has a 6er in now. A good runner meaning i dont want to do a full rebuild.

Plan is to flush and put a new gaskets on the motor.

Rick that site is the site that got me this far. Great info. Now that i know its not stuck i will pull the transmission and check the crank. Pulling the pan as well being this has a car pan and i will have to put a truck (rear sump, to my understanding) on the motor to clear the straight axle. Thanks for the compression info. First time i did the test without opening the butterflies. Want to run it a bit then do it again.

Y-block. Yes you are correct. There is no dip stick and the covers were off during the test run. I drained the oil and put 4qts 30w and a qt of mmo in. There is an oil pressure guage on the side of the block but didnt check it on the quick test run. working the throttle and bottle feeding the carb. All valves are moving and oiling is good. Left a puddle on the driveway. One of the oil tubes doesnt seat in the rocker and looks as if the rocker shaft is offset a little stopping it from seating right. The clip was gone but i have a spare 239? 54 y block that some one gave me i can salvage some parts from. So i have an extra clip. You know all those little parts are priceless when you need them.

I want to run a newer trans with this and know i need a few parts to do so in regards to the bellhousing. Think t5 but i would like my wife to drive it so automatic information is of interest.

I plan to also run a holley 4 barrel and a perx (sp) ignition too.

Thanks for the help, i will have a lot of questions over time to make this work.

[Y-Blockhead]

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Not sure how the motor mounts in a panel but if it is the same as a PU you will need different exhaust, truck front cover and truck front motor mount along with rear sump pan and oil pump pickup.

Can't use the side mounts or rear dump exhaust on truck (unless you run them backwards, but that looks like sheet). Ram horns are nice. may want to look into a truck thermostat housing also, the one that sticks straight up. your engine has the passenger car one.

I'm sure there are other items you will need, I just can't think right now. Starting off the year right... SICK

Just making a few observations so you can keep your eyes open for parts.

A '57 Y is a good starting point and if it has original heads you have ECZ-G heads which are the "good" ones.

[Tinker]

Truck front cover? The timing cover? Bear with me. I knew i needed a differnet motor mount (same as truck) and exhaust manifolds but is the cover different too? what about the water pump? on the exhaust i'm Thinking ram horns or headers. Leaning to headers. Found a rear pan and sump a while back, so that is hopefully done.

[Y-Blockhead]

OK, reread your other post. The overflow tube is what indexes the rocker shaft in the proper position. Sounds like it wasn't assembled correctly. Don't think it will happen but if the shaft rotates it could restrict oil to that side. Something that should be addressed at some point.

The clip you mentioned... I just saw on eBay that someone has a lot of 10 for sale. I was going to get them but then thought why do I need so many???

[Alaska Jim]

most of the 239 "y" block parts are incompatible with the 272,292, and 312 eng's.

[Tinker]

Hi Jim, yes that is my understanding too.

The 292/312 I have is fairly complete, but I was able to use the oil tube retainer clip, a nut, and a bolt from the 239 to complete the driverside rocker on the other motor. Looks like the waterpump pully and fan will work too.

Any catalog/parts stores suggestions from the y-block crowd?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Truck front cover? The timing cover?

Truck and T-Bird Timing chain cover is different from car because the front mount bolts to it.

In the links below check the difference in the lower section longer bolts attach the mount on the truck cover. Water pump is the same.

Car timing cover

Truck timing cover

The bell housings are different also, truck has mounts, car not.

[Tinker]

Wow, thanks! The truck cover is what I needed. Now just have to find the motor mount bracket.

On the bellhousing I believe I will have to get a 57 or later truck bellhousing (TAAM-7505A or TAAM-7505B 3sp bellhousing) with the mounts and the holes for the hydraulic clutch to do a t5 conversion. Still not sure what transmission is the best swap. I just want something with an overdrive.

[Tinker]

I'm removing the transmission today and it's a ford automatic trans (3 sp Cruise-O-Matic). Do I have to remove some bolts from the flywheel through the lower trans plate? Or can I just unbolt the outer bolts from the bell-housing and pull it apart?

[streetdreams]

When you have it apart, pull the flexplate and see what markings are on the crank flange. You can then determine what CID.

[Y-Blockhead]

You should pull the converter with the trans.

[Tinker]

I removed the trans, intake, valley cover, and heads yesterday. Best I can tell right now is that the block is a 292. No dot that I can see. I will be putting it on an engine stand next so I can rotate it and remove the pan and check main and rod bearings.

[Y-Blockhead]

If you have the heads off you can measure the bore and stroke. 3.80x3.44 = 312, 3.75x3.3. = 292.

How's it looking inside?

[Tinker]

Looks fairly good inside. Typical sludge in the valley, but not as bad as my flathead was. Cylinder walls look good and there is a very slight ridge on the top of the cylinders, not sure if that is just carbon build up or wear. I did get another compression test in before removing everything and it was 130 across the board. Not perfect but I believe that will increase with some running.

I did come across a fair amount of scale (rust and maybe casting sand?) in the cooling chambers. There was still some water in the right bank too. A bit concerning, but I'm trying to stay positive. We'll see. Once I get it on the stand, I'll check the mains for cracks and maybe plastaguage the mains to see if this is going to be a runner or not.

[Tinker]

Just put a digital caliper on a few cylinders. 3.78 - 292 then. That works for me!

It's been bored .40 over before so my caliper off some. Does anyone know what the stock piston to piston wall tolerances are?

[Tinker]

Put the 292 (EBU mains) on the stand last night after taking the other 239 off it first.

It's a grimy mess right now, but I think it'll clean up just fine. One nice thing about not having a real nice garage floor is you don't have to worry about getting oil on your floor. The dog is not too amused with the mess and seems a little annoyed that his spot is now occupied by the transmission.

[Tinker]

I plan to plastaguage the mains tonight.

What should I look for in exceptable clearances?

thank you

[Tinker]

I want to thank the people that chimed in and yblock thank you for the parts lead.

[Tinker]

Waiting on a few things to update.

But in the mean time if anyone is in need of a good "Cruise-O-Matic" I have a one. Will not ship.

[sprink88]

Is it a Cruise-o or a Fordo? I have Fordo's laying around but may use a Cruise-o if my new(er) one is toast. I see your in MN/FL. Hope your talking from MN. here!

How much BTW?

[Tinker]

Update on the Y-Block.

I plasti'ed the mains and they are within the top end of the tolerances at .0025. No cracked mains. Bottom of cylinders to piston is .001. After talking to a few people I feel decent about running this engine for now.

After a bunch of block cleaning, special attention to the oil passages, I'm moving forward with bolting pieces on as they are cleaned and refurb'ed. New gaskets on everything.

Replaced the timing gears and chain as the old chain was so worn you could almost slip it off the gears, seriously! Installed at 3 o'clock position and 12 pins between.



New front oil seal and the timing cover is on. Harmonic balancer installed. New freeze plugs.



Truck oil pan, pickup tube. (I have to move the dipstick to the center location so the front dipstick tube hole was plugged and the side center location was opened up.)


A little blue paint. Was looking for the blue that had a little green in it (not quite turquoise though) but couldn't find any locally. So light blue it is.




Heads look good, no cracks. A bunch more cleaning to do, well a lot more to do over all. But I think this is going to work great for what I need. Time will tell once I get to a running engine again.

Hey at the very least I'm gathering the parts I need and will only be out a gasket set and a can of rattle can if it needs to be rebuilt sooner then later. Well some time too, but it's been a learning experience to say the least.

[Tinker]

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57 ford front truck motor mount located, cleaned, and sprayed.



Located a 3sp Bellhousing. Very nice shape. The only thing I had to do to it was paint it. Switching plan from the t5 direction and going to go with the 3sp setup. Have a flywheel from the 239 engine that is a 10in clutch flywheel. I think I should be able to use the clutch plate off the I6 if its a 10 as well. Makes me think that maybe I can use the flywheel too. But not sure if the flywheels from a I6 is the same for a Y-Block.



Waterpump almost cleaned up. I've been using Metal Rescue to get rid of light rust. Wire brush it and throw it in a bucket. Check it every couple hours. Works really well and is eco-safe. No stink, no gloves. Good stuff. Water pump needs one more dose with the wirewheel and then back into the bucket for a couple hours.

[parklane]

Why not use molasis and water to get rid of the rust?? It's envior friendly too.

[Tinker]

Your right, it is eco friendly too. Feedstores are about an hour from where I live now and gallon for gallon it's the same price, minus the gallons of gas to go get it. The MetalResue has no smell at all. The molasses and water trick does work well.

[Tinker]

Engine is off the engine stand and on to stage 2.

Heads cleaned and torqued on. Pushrods next.

[Motorhead6]

I have a set of headers for sale from a y-block in an early F-100 that should bolt right up. Very good shape, but could use some cosmetics. $75.00 plus pick up or shipping. I live in Jacksonville, Fl area.

[Tinker]

I sent you a pm Motorhead6.

[Motorhead6]

To answer your original question about the compression reading of 130 psi, that is a good number. There are no advertised compression number for a given engine because it is a function of compression ratio and valve timing. This makes the psi very dependent upon the cam you are using. To prove this, remove the valve rockers and turn the engine over; the psi will dramatically increase. This is why you need to compare high/low readings and guage the health of the engine by these numbers.

You are apparently lookng for exhaust manifolds, not what is commonly referred to as "headers". Headers as normally referred to is a collection of steel tubes that are welded to a header flange. To answer your question on this item, I have only one cast iron manifold which is for the right side of the style introduced in 1957 y-block. The ram-horn style I believe was for the old Lincoln and truck ohv V-8. I believe these were 287 and 317 cid engines although they will bolt onto the y-blocks. Someone will probably corect me on the issue of cid.

[Tinker]

My first choice would be ram horns, second would be headers. Looked at reds and have been looking for used decently priced truck manifolds. I am on a budget that is long gone aready.

Thanks for the advice. I know very little about y-blocks, the last 2 months have been a crash course on the basics. Cant wait to fire it up again and test it out.

[parklane]

[QUOTE=
You are apparently lookng for exhaust manifolds, not what is commonly referred to as "headers". Headers as normally referred to is a collection of steel tubes that are welded to a header flange. To answer your question on this item, I have only one cast iron manifold which is for the right side of the style introduced in 1957 y-block. The ram-horn style I believe was for the old Lincoln and truck ohv V-8. I believe these were 287 and 317 cid engines although they will bolt onto the y-blocks. Someone will probably corect me on the issue of cid.[/QUOTE]

Actually, there are 2 different 'ramshorn' type of manifolds. The ones for the Lincoln will not work on a Y block Ford engine. The Ford type have the bolt holes in a straight line across the manifold, where the Lincoln are staggard. More than a few guys looking for the Ford type have been duped by the seller telling them that they will fit.

[Tinker]

I was looking for parts numbers online but didnt find any, thank you that is very helpful. Im also having problems locating a water pump pully. The early 239 is to shallow and a later truck one 2.75" deep is too deep. Probably a very a common pully, but the details are adding up even though im trying to be smart about it. I know i will get there eventually.

[shuffster]

It seems like years ago when I did a Y block, I got the head gaskets on wrong which apparently is easy to do. Get them on wrong and the water doesn't flow right and the engine over heats and things get bad. Just a reminder. Engine looking good.

[Tinker]

Thanks. I bought a gasket set from speedway. Good set with some duplicates included. I think they are best gaskets. Head gaskets are fiber and are marked front. I also used copper spray as directed by best gaskets website.

I didnt drill any holes in the block or head for added cooling for the center of the heads. There is a few mods in the process that i didnt do. But i see how they could be very benifical. Next y-block i do.

[Tinker]

Pushrods in. Adjusted rockers with the quarter turn method.
Gapped and cleaned the old sparkplugs. .35
Gapped points. .16

Rigged a soleniod with a handheld starter button.

Carberator needs work so I'm bottle feeding it, hard to get an idle that way :]'

Have new wires,cap,rotor, and plugs to put on yet, but since the carb is still an issue I'll wait till it's a little farther along. Plan to also setup a makeshift coolant tank so I can go through the cooling system before installing it in the truck.

Oh yeah, here is the video link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbMDI...ature=youtu.be

[Hot Rod Reverend]

I like these headers. This video is with them installed on a 292 Y block on an engine run stand... the headers are a truck header I believe, but the race car drivers cut the hole through the fenders and make them fender well exits...

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/g...100_4309-1.mp4

[Tinker]

and supercharged too. Nice.

I'm thinking the stubbies might work but I can get ram horns for a little more. I don't want to cut into the wheel wells which I would have to do with the ones in the video.

Stubbies - I'll have to give reds a call and see if these will fit without cutting anything. Anybody use these on your truck?

[sprink88]

That is an awesome build you have going right now! Been following it. Wish our trans was "up here". BUT I may have a good one now with the 292 I just bought.

[Tinker]

Best of luck to you. Start a thread on your build.

[Tinker]

Back and running. Set rough timing with a vacuum gauge (18lbs). Compression cold at 120lbs across the board. 50lbs of oil pressure (cold) at idle and 70lbs rev'ed (running straight30 so I'm sure that bumps it up some).

So, I have a few a more questions.

How much advance should I have at idle? 10 degrees? more? I set initial advance by vacuum gauge, idles great and rev's up decent without dropping out.

Mechanic fuel pump or electric? There is no pump with this engine so I can go either way. Is Autozone just as good as any for a mechanical?

Do I need to re-torque the heads after running it? If so, torque hot, warm, or cool?

5 quarts of oil is correct, right? I haven't located a truck dipstick yet, it has 5 quarts in it now.

Thanks

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Back and running. Set rough timing with a vacuum gauge (18lbs). Compression cold at 120lbs across the board. 50lbs of oil pressure (cold) at idle and 70lbs rev'ed (running straight30 so I'm sure that bumps it up some).

So, I have a few a more questions.

How much advance should I have at idle? 10 degrees? more? I set initial advance by vacuum gauge, idles great and rev's up decent without dropping out.

All of the shop manuals I have ever read when it concerns Y blocks have always shown an initial advance setting that is too low in my book. From my experience, the Y blocks like a lot of initial advance. What distributor are you running?

Originally Posted by Tinker

Mechanic fuel pump or electric? There is no pump with this engine so I can go either way. Is Autozone just as good as any for a mechanical?

The cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to go to Autozone and purchase an early 60's FE engine fuel pump. It should be pictured with a cannister fuel filter on the bottom of the pump when they look it up in their computers. Get one for something like a 1964 Ford F100 with a 352.

Originally Posted by Tinker

Do I need to re-torque the heads after running it? If so, torque hot, warm, or cool?

I did not look back to see what gaskets you used. If you used the steel shim gaskets, you definitely need to retorque, but I believe the recommended retorque interval is to be something like after the first 500-700 miles on the engine. You are obviously just running it on a stand for right now. I don't think it is going to be issue unless you start putting it under load soon.

If you are using the modern style of composite head gaskets, most of the time the instructions have always said that there is no need to retorque. I always do just for safety's sake.

Originally Posted by Tinker

5 quarts of oil is correct, right? I haven't located a truck dipstick yet, it has 5 quarts in it now.

Thanks

The measurement for the quarts of oil will certainly depend on your oil pan. I believe that most of the trucks will use more than 5 quarts. I know the passenger car oil pans were 5.5 quarts of oil at oil change when the filter was removed. The truck pans are usually more than this, and I believe there are actually 3 different sizes of truck pans... maybe someone on the site will recognize your pan you have pictured. I would put at least 5.5 total quarts in there for starters.

EDIT: Just looked back at your oil pan photos... it looks as if you have AT LEAST the truck oil pan that takes 6.5 quarts. Hopefully someone on the site has a truck tube and dipstick to hook you up. I have none at the moment. How is the dipstick tube hole in the side of the block plugged right now?

[Tinker]

I'm running a FEH 57-58 distributor.

Great, I'll get one for a 1964 Ford F100 with a 352. I've read if it doesn't have the right angle to the arm you can harm the cam, but I have also read people use the later pump with no problems. So these are fairly identical then and work with a truck timing cover?

I'll wait till I get some miles on it then to re torque.

I believe there is at least 2 different truck oil pans. There is one that is deeper then the one I have. I could make up a tube (15" I believe) from the 239 I have and shorten the dipstick (which is in 2 pieces now) But I dont know the proper distances of the truck dipstick.

There is nothing in the center hole right now, I should probably put a little plug or something over it that can't go into the pan. I did plug the front dipstick hole with the metal plug that I took out of the center hole. I used indianhead gasket sealer also (indianhead on the freeze plugs too.)

Thank you, I appreciate it.

[rick55]

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You say you set the ignition timing by vacuum gauge. 18" of vacuum is about right. The y block generally likes 10-12 degrees of advance at idle with the vacuum disconnected from the canister.
Due to the rings of the harmonic balancer having a desire to slip the timing marks may not be correct. A vacuum gauge is a very accurate way to set the timing. The method I use is to have the engine idling at normal idle speed and twist the distributor to where I get the highest steady reading and then twist the distributor back to where the vacuum drops by 1" on the gauge. You may have to reset the idle speed if it revs too high as the mechanical advance will start to cut in.
Take it for a test drive just to make sure it is not advanced and pinging.
Regards

[Tinker]

I went by the auto parts store at lunch and asked first for a 58 F100 292 fuel pump. Didnt have one, so I asked about the 64. They had one for a 64 292, no 352. Speedway shows the pump from 55-'64 Ford TRUCK 272, 292, 312 w/electric wipers. So what gives with the parts store?

Link to pump I bought at the parts store, leaving it in the box till I know this will work.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Y-Bloc...ump,41731.html

What say ye?

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Checked your link. That is the identical one that I am running on a C2AE block in a 55 Ford car. It will work just fine, and that is a good price.

It will work on a truck or passenger car, or T-bird timing cover... no difference there. I do know that the early truck (1954 and early 1955) 239 Y blocks had a fuel pump that installed upside down (last time I checked, the speedway printed catalog would always show the 55 and up pumps upside down erroneously). The inlet/outlet fitting maybe a tick larger than the original fuel lines, but since you are running this on a stand, that really won't be an issue.

What gives with the parts stores is this... the older car and truck parts have all been put to a large database just like the late model car parts. Unfortunately most people behind the counter are too young or are too uninformed to know classic parts very well and will only follow what the computer says. Gone are the days of the old parts books,..... sigh..... and gone are the days when retired mechanics worked the parts counters - they knew their parts and could just about pull the box off the shelf by themselves when you told them what you wanted.

Then,,, you have 30 something year olds like me telling you that Ford put 352's in their trucks in 1964... now that I think about it, 1965 was the first year for 352's in the trucks. My bad on that one. The fuel pump in the photo would have been the same model... FE series fuel pumps and Y block series fuel pumps match up.

[Tinker]

The auto zone was about a buck cheaper and no shipping. I'm glad speedy bill is an option, that is for sure.

I just figured that the parts place would have known the pump is the same from 55-64. There I go again thinking they know what I don't! All ended well as I bolted it on and fired it up. And... Hey if you didn't say 64 I wouldn't have asked. Again appreciated.

The pump came with some fittings and I jerry rigged' it together for now with some rubber hose. Part kit was missing one bolt to mount, but went through a can and found one. Running now on the pump no more nursing it. Smooth like butter.

Went by ed's place and he made me up a couple used throwaway glasspacs and tubes to keep me from bothering the neighbors and insuring I'll have hearing for a while longer. Running the car manifolds till it gets dropped in the truck.

Thanks again to all, Hey even a "what the hell are you thinking boy" is better then nothing.

Carry on and enjoy... :]

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by rick55

You say you set the ignition timing by vacuum gauge. 18" of vacuum is about right. The y block generally likes 10-12 degrees of advance at idle with the vacuum disconnected from the canister.
Due to the rings of the harmonic balancer having a desire to slip the timing marks may not be correct. A vacuum gauge is a very accurate way to set the timing. The method I use is to have the engine idling at normal idle speed and twist the distributor to where I get the highest steady reading and then twist the distributor back to where the vacuum drops by 1" on the gauge. You may have to reset the idle speed if it revs too high as the mechanical advance will start to cut in.
Take it for a test drive just to make sure it is not advanced and pinging.
Regards

Rick after a fuel adjustment (being I could only keep idle with a bottle and not work the dizzy) I went after the timing again. I was pulling 22lbs and it was idling quick. I backed off the dizzy a bit to 19 and then adjusted the carb to idle out. Throttle response is great. No idea were my advance timing is yet but one step forward 2 steps back, right'o.

[Tinker]

I have a few questions about vac ports on water ports. I marked a photo of the ports in question. Had to use an old pict as my camera battery is dead and I can't find the charger anywhere .

Vac 1-3.
Vac 2-3 seems to be more of an exhaust port or something as it blows air when running, doesn't seem to be a vacuum port? Vac 3 isn't visible but is in about the same location as 2 but on the opposite side of the intake. Both 2-3 have a metal tube running into the intake.

Water 1-3
I'm pretty sure Water 1&2 are for the heater, but what is the water 3 for?

Thank you.

[2racer]

I have what I think is a 57 292 from a car, it was in a 60 f100.
Water 1 and 2 are heater hoses, water 3 has a pipe plug in it.
Don't know about the vac ports.

I am doing the opposite of what you are doing, I am putting a 6 cyl from a 62 f100 in a 54 f100.

You might wan't to check what your truck has for frame mounts, mine had an engine mount crossmember behind the front crossmember that must have been for a v8 as it is a few inches behind where the 6 cyl mount sits and it hit the 6 cyl oil pan. From pictures I have seen it looks like there is a bracket attached to the front crossmeber that the 6 cyl mount sits on and I have yet to locate one.

[Tinker]

The 6 in my truck is a 223. Same mount as the 62 6er?

[2racer]

It's the same kind of thing as you ran into with the y block.

The 54 6 cyl uses a mount that bolts to the timing cover and the 62 uses a mount that bolts to the block.

I got a timing cover and the bracket that bolts to it that sits on top of the rubber motor mount that should fit on the 62 223, what I am missing is the bracket that attaches to the front crossmember that the rubber mount sits on.

I thought this truck came with a 6 cyl as that is what the vin tag indicated, didn't think to measure first and I am finding out that alot of things on these old f100 trucks don't interchange. The 60, 62 and 54 all use a different front mount system.

[Y-Blockhead]

Water 1-2 heater as mentioned. Water 3 plug or if you have power steering the mount connects there. I have the sender for the stock gauge stock in water 3 .

Vac 1 is manifold vacuum for vacuum wipers or possibly heater controls. Don't use for distributor advance. Vac 2 is for automajic choke. Vac 3, can't see, I believe is the other end of the auto choke line. Sounds like the tube in the manifold is leaking, if not using for choke you should probably plug them.

Since the manifolds are generic for different models (Car, truck, bird) the various ports are either used or plugged.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by 2racer

It's the same kind of thing as you ran into with the y block.

The 54 6 cyl uses a mount that bolts to the timing cover and the 62 uses a mount that bolts to the block.

I got a timing cover and the bracket that bolts to it that sits on top of the rubber motor mount that should fit on the 62 223, what I am missing is the bracket that attaches to the front crossmember that the rubber mount sits on.

I thought this truck came with a 6 cyl as that is what the vin tag indicated, didn't think to measure first and I am finding out that alot of things on these old f100 trucks don't interchange. The 60, 62 and 54 all use a different front mount system.

My panel has those brackets on the crossmember already, reason I went with the front mount. I'm going to need the brackets you mentioned on the crossmember, otherwise I would have given them to you.

They do look like something that could be made fairly easily, but not so much if you want it to look stock.

The interchange deal can be interesting, the closer the years the better.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Water 1-2 heater as mentioned. Water 3 plug or if you have power steering the mount connects there. I have the sender for the stock gauge stock in water 3 .

Vac 1 is manifold vacuum for vacuum wipers or possibly heater controls. Don't use for distributor advance. Vac 2 is for automajic choke. Vac 3, can't see, I believe is the other end of the auto choke line. Sounds like the tube in the manifold is leaking, if not using for choke you should probably plug them.

Since the manifolds are generic for different models (Car, truck, bird) the various ports are either used or plugged.

Thanks YBlock

[Tinker]

Wouldn't you know that while at the parts store a guy with a 56 was in the adjacent grocery store parking lot. I waited for him and then spent about 30mins picking his brain.

Also, put the radiator on the stand now and the engine is piped for water. I have a thermostat in but I think I have the wrong one (it's one I had for the 6 and it fit but looks like the outlet part is too small). Are most of you guys using stats, or do you run with restrictors, or nothing at all? Think I should have at least drilled a few holes in it.

Also do I need to burp it?

[Tinker]

Not much to report.... Little by little...

Some details worked out on the 292. Also I'm going to run it without stats.



223 to pull and clean and paint the engine compartment and rewire and...



The panel is waiting.

[Rock Hornbuckle]

There was a series that ran in Street Rodder Magazine in 1999 or 2000, titled "Why not a Y Block". You may be able to get the back issues. It went into great detail about building a Y Block. I think it ran for a number of months.

[Tinker]

Rock. Im already seeing a few things i would consider changing for high performance or other. every engine is different i guess. Moving forward and will post my specifics with what i have done or not done later.

Picked up two books. http://hotrodenginetech.com/ford-y-block/ , a great book for engine work. And a 57+ truck mech. manual coming next week.

[Tinker]

Anyone have some clutch details they want to share? Clutch sizes for yblocks?

[Y-Blockhead]

Be forewarned there are a few mistakes in the book you have. One that comes to mind is the picture of the timing chain, which tells you install it backwards.

Also, a new book coming out, due in September. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/161...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I pre-ordered mine.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

About thermostats and such, I run a 190 degree thermostat in the Y block powered vehicles I drive. Of course, I also have 4 row radiators. If you go with original 2 row and depending on your climate or what kind of weather you drive it in, you can always go with a 2 row radiator and 180 degree tstat.

For my engine run stand, I have an electric fan now that I use with a switch mounted on my panel. Very easy to operate. Once the coolant gets to 195 or so, I hit the fan for a few minutes. 2 row radiator on the engine stand. 180 thermostat.

The parts stores may not have knowledgeable folks when it comes to cross-referencing, etc. I usually ask for a Chrysler thermostat. The 60s thermostats from Chrylser had the larger opening like the original Y block thermostats. You may want to do something like that and compare the holes. I would not suggest running without a thermostat. Your coolant/water needs to slow down at some point so that the radiator can do its job and bring the temp down as the coolant falls down the rows.

As far as "burping" in concerned, things should be straightforward unless your radiator cap is mounted BELOW your intake manifold. If that is case, you might have some issues with burping, but I think that was only with the early 60s Galaxies that had Y blocks. After filling full with a cold engine/cold thermostat, I always leave the radiator cap until warmup of the engine opens the thermostat. You can visibly see the coolant level recede as it fills all the nooks and crannies. Of course, you can also close everything off, check your upper radiator hose temperature by hand, run things until it gets pretty hot, shut it down and wait for it to cool, open the radiator cap and basically the level will have already gone down.

Nice to see you able to move along.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Be forewarned there are a few mistakes in the book you have. One that comes to mind is the picture of the timing chain, which tells you install it backwards.

Also, a new book coming out, due in September. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/161...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I pre-ordered mine.

Well, most of the pictures in the reprint are barely recognizable. So maybe that's a good thing then.

I verify most everything I have been doing by at least a couple sources. Hey that's why I ask a lot of questions here.

Originally Posted by Hot Rod Reverend

About thermostats and such, I run a 190 degree thermostat in the Y block powered vehicles I drive. Of course, I also have 4 row radiators. If you go with original 2 row and depending on your climate or what kind of weather you drive it in, you can always go with a 2 row radiator and 180 degree tstat.

For my engine run stand, I have an electric fan now that I use with a switch mounted on my panel. Very easy to operate. Once the coolant gets to 195 or so, I hit the fan for a few minutes. 2 row radiator on the engine stand. 180 thermostat.

The parts stores may not have knowledgeable folks when it comes to cross-referencing, etc. I usually ask for a Chrysler thermostat. The 60s thermostats from Chrylser had the larger opening like the original Y block thermostats. You may want to do something like that and compare the holes. I would not suggest running without a thermostat. Your coolant/water needs to slow down at some point so that the radiator can do its job and bring the temp down as the coolant falls down the rows.

As far as "burping" in concerned, things should be straightforward unless your radiator cap is mounted BELOW your intake manifold. If that is case, you might have some issues with burping, but I think that was only with the early 60s Galaxies that had Y blocks. After filling full with a cold engine/cold thermostat, I always leave the radiator cap until warmup of the engine opens the thermostat. You can visibly see the coolant level recede as it fills all the nooks and crannies. Of course, you can also close everything off, check your upper radiator hose temperature by hand, run things until it gets pretty hot, shut it down and wait for it to cool, open the radiator cap and basically the level will have already gone down.

Nice to see you able to move along.

I've been using a infrared thermal-gun to check temps on everything.

I'm not getting any flow from the stat I have in now. The guy with the 56 that I talked to at the parts store, doesn't run any stats on his car and it always runs cool. Maybe too cool. I may just put a restrictor in or go with a better stat. Not totally sure yet. Fairly easy thing to change out.

With the stat in, the engine had air in it on the top end. Removed the intake manifold water plug. Water did start to come rushing out after a second... so I quickly put it back in. It did take a second or two before it leveled out though. If I would have drilled a hole or to in the stat it would have filled better, i believe.

[Tinker]

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Timing chain: This is one from a 61 manual I got off the interweb. Must of read about 10 articles and assorted discussions on doing it.

Basically came down to having the crank gear set at the 3 o'clock position, 12 pins between the cam and crank gears, then index the dizzy to tdc 1.

[Tinker]

Boy, my camera does no justice to the sound this engine is putting out.

Oil 50psi - idle
Vacuum 18lbs - does float some.
I'm going to put a timing light on it tonight and check my timing.

Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShO6e...ature=youtu.be

[Y-Blockhead]

Good job!! Sounds better with exhaust manifolds...

I noticed in your video, left hand head by temperature sending unit there is a bolt hole. Need to put a SHORT bolt in there and the one on the right head in the corresponding hole. These holes need to be plugged, they are open to your internals and WILL blow oil out. Not too long of a bolt, >1/2", or it will hit a push rod and bend it.

[Tinker]

Thanks Yblockhead! I'll do that.

Had a little time to go out and put a timing light on it. I have faint markings on the damper and the tdc1 matched up when I had the heads off. It was running at 30 degrees initial advance! Oh no... backed it off to 15 degrees initial now. Hooked the vac up to the dizzy and rev'ed it up. Looks around 35 degrees advanced.

On a stock damper what degree is each tic/line?

I measured the circumference of the damper divided it by 360 then multiplied it by 10, for 10 degrees then marked the damper. 10 20 30

[Hot Rod Reverend]

IIRC, each tic/line on a stock dampener is worth 2 degrees. I think most stock dampeners go from TDC out to 10 degrees. Over the years, the marks get hard to see if there has been any kind of corrosion.

Y blocks like a lot of initial advance! Looks like you found that out, lol.

About the coolant and running with no thermostat. You may be able to get away with that for an engine that just idles most of the time, but if the engine is running at speed a lot, the water pump will push coolant through the engine TOO QUICKLY and will not carry enough of the heat off the engine itself.

Y Blockhead is right on with those bolt holes. Those are vented to the valley pan area and need to be plugged up. Like he says, nothing too long or it will interfere with a push rod.

Speaking of timing chain and gears, I finally sprung for one of these for my 312 build (over on Y-blocksforever.com)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330847388194...84.m1497.l2649

[Tinker]

HRR, looked for the 312 build but didn't find it. The engine was getting hot quickly before, after taking the initial advance down 20 degrees it runs much cooler. I would guess it'd have less power underload with that much advance too.

Thanks again for all the help. I'll have to double check the tics with my marks to see how close I am.

[BLB -Ford only]

I'm looking for the conversion from road draft tube to a PCV on a 1964 292 Y block
Any suggestion on where i can find

[Tinker]

Not much ford stuff going on lastweek. Spent the weekend feeding gators in the everglades.



Had some time last night to remove the front clip on the 57. Loosed everything up till I could recruit someone to help pull it off and set it aside. 6er ready to pull sometime tonight.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Not much ford stuff going on lastweek. Spent the weekend feeding gators in the everglades.

Whatha feed those Bad Boys, fingers?

[Tinker]

Believe it or not... Marshmallows. I might be a little crazy, but not full-blown nuts, that's not my hand in that picture. However I am right there within a foot of that little 6' gator. We had a couple gators stalking us while shore fishing too, they'd submerge 10' out and then creep right to the edge of the shore.



Engine and trans out.

[Tinker]

Hope everyone had a very happy Easter!

Saturday was degrease the chassis day, and then brush on some POR15 on the frame (rattlecan'ed the suspension). Had some shocks leftover from when I lowered my 53 customline, came in a kit but the ones I had were still in great shape. Knew I kept them for some reason :]'

Before degreasing...

POR15

Firewall next...

[Tinker]

flywheel ready... 11" clutch

[Tinker]

Yep just going to do an engine swap, that is it. Just the engine

Gas tank out. Looks a lot better inside then I thought it would be. But it will need to be cleaned out.



The fuel sender float was completely eating away.... anyone seen this before? I'm almost 99% sure that the gauge was working only 2-3 yrs ago. The truck was not used a lot though and it always had gas in it.

[Tinker]

Things are starting to arrive. Clutch disc, plate, and bearings.



Gas tank and radiator, back from the shop. Tank was cleaned and then Red-Kote was applied.



Now it's time to clean the shop and start/practice on some sheet metal work. Lord help me now...

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Tinker

The fuel sender float was completely eating away.... anyone seen this before? I'm almost 99% sure that the gauge was working only 2-3 yrs ago. The truck was not used a lot though and it always had gas in it.

WOW!! What were you putting in your tank, Battery Acid?

[Tinker]

Ah just the fuel of today.

Built a welding table today and practiced some tig on 22 gauge. Success with new clean metal. Now on to 18 gauge and rusty metal fixes.

[Tinker]

Table made on Saturday.


Some more practice today (with clean metal). Thought I did okay for a hack.

Tig 22 gauge. Blew through in one place. Not so good with the Tig yet.

Mig 18 gauge. Little metal finishing too.

[Tinker]

Had some inside fender panel work to do on both sides.

Cut out the yuck to good metal and chiseled out the old spot welds.



Formed a piece using simple tools. A vice, a sand bag, hammers and a snips.



weld it in and did some grinding. Since this is inside the fender I didn't go to crazy with the grinding. It's strong and it'll work great.

[Tinker]

Ready to get back on the 57 project, only to come home to rain . Doesn't look like it's going to break for a few days. I have been working partly outside as I don't have room inside my 1920s "built for a model A" garages . Guess it's time to clean the garage up and watch the landscaping get greener.



Hey at least the pineapples are happy about the rain

[Tinker]

Still more sanding to do... then sealer and some color. Slow going.

[Tinker]

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Back at it. Fixing a pinhole. Started out like that but the deeper I got...

Pinhole


Removal


Weld

[Tinker]

Picked this up a couple weeks ago, because I don't have enough projects.... McCormick Deering M 1-1/2.

This project gets put in the corner and tinkered on while welds cool.

[Tinker]

Cleaned out some putty-overs and welded in a few more pinholes in other areas. Primer on in spots. Getting closer to dropping that motor in.



On a side note: After soaking the cylinder for a week and a little persuasion the head finally came off the IHC. Piston out and it looks good. Letting it soak for a while and see if the rings free up. A study in patience.

I know this is a side bar but it does share some similarities to the ford/fordbarn style. Babbit (which looks great!) and a sparkplug.

[Y-Blockhead]

I dig those Hit & Miss engines. Would be fun to have one to play with. They're something you just don't see too much of in SoCal.

[Tinker]

They don't pop up to often down here in fl either. They seem to be everywhere up north. Found this one on ebay and it wasn't selling so I called him and made an offer. Drove the 300 miles to pick it up. It's about 95% complete and the piston was binding on the back stroke. I've got that sorted out now.

We had a John Deere H&M on the farm when I was a kid (we were/are JD people) and it was sold off. I was looking for a JD that wasn't rebuilt completely for a few years (what fun is it if it's already done) within a day drive. No JDs came up, so a IHC it is.

I'd check around your area, or north of you, for flywheelers. There has to be an antique tractor club or event somewhere in California farm country. Where there is old farm implement, there is hit&miss engines.

[Tinker]

I never mentioned anything about the history of this 57 panel. It was my wifes fathers daily driver. He passed in 07. He was a great guy and miss working on cars with him. The y-block was something he always wanted and planned to do.

[Tinker]

I've been taking a hiatus from the 57. The weather here is hot and muggy. Not great weather for welding and sanding in my opinion. This is supposed to be fun right and I don't have a deadline. I'll be back at it soon enough.

Side note... ihc running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Czqm...ature=youtu.be

[08jmateo]

Anyone!!
I have a Y Block camshaft and need help identifying it.
It has the following casting marks
Behind the first cam journal MTC the markings are
TMC and YB1
Its lift is .450
Any information will be highly appreciated

Thanks

[Y-Blockhead]

Good job on the Hit & Miss. I love those things, could watch/listen to them all day. I'm so jealous.

I also love this Bad Boy. Check the smoke rings...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_0xifuTqVA

[Tinker]

Thanks, honed the cylinder and put new rings on it. It has compression now. It's running better after adjusting the governor weights and throttle, it runs "balls out" now. It's fun to bring back an engine that hasn't run for decades. I also learned that this type is called a throttler. Had no idea. Also learned this one was made in 1928.

Find one that needs work, but research the model. Some are really difficult to find parts for and some are nearly impossible. The IHC M is fairly common and there are lots of aftermarket parts. Thanks for the link too. Not real portable but awesome!

In a month or two I should have the engine back into the panel. Turn this back into a FORD thread :]'

[Tinker]

Finally put some sealer on the 57. More bodywork to do but now it's at least better protected from the elements.

[PackMule]

Great Project... I'm Bogged down in my Resto. of my Dads '57 Fairlane...
A shop I had it towed to, ( O'l Timer, Good Guy.) Got it running for me; but, the oil wasn't getting to the Rocker Shaft. " Common Problem with Y-Blocks he said." { Now that I Scanned Your Thread, I will Study all of the Posts.} for any solutions...

[PackMule]

That is my Problem...
Y-Blockhead:
You mentioned you had it running? While the valve covers are off check for oil flow to the rockers. Y-Blocks are known for top end oiling problems along with the sticking valves/bent push rod problems rick55 mentioned.

[Tinker]

Packmule you might want to remove the rocker and clean them up some. Also if the rockers were assembled wrong and the rocker shaft turned to stop oil from entering the rocker shaft then you would have no flow (see link). It might just need to be cleaned though. Do you have oil pressure otherwise?

Read under the heading Rocker shafts...
http://www.ford-y-block.com/assemblyerrors.htm

[chuckles]

Awesome Project.Nice work. !
I'm building a '25 T' Drs. coupe. w/Y block .3 Deuces'

[Tinker]

Looks like its off to a good start! Like the east coast direction with the channel and no chop. I sold a 3x2 for the y-block that i had, as i didnt want to mess with all the carbs. Looks cool that is without dispute. This is a driver, but should burn some tires too.

Thanks for the feedback. Enjoy your fords.

[46yblock]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Good job on the Hit & Miss. I love those things, could watch/listen to them all day. I'm so jealous.

I also love this Bad Boy. Check the smoke rings...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_0xifuTqVA

That monster is located close to where I live. We go to their annual celebration of all things old (mechanically) about everyother year. Also cool to see is a Thrasher in operation, thrashing oat hay, powered by a giant Steam Tractor. A leather belt transmits power from the tractor to thrasher with 50 feet between the two pieces of equipment.
They have about a hundred antique, restored and not, tractors, with 30 or so hit miss engines thumping away. The tractors take their turn on a sled pull competition. It is a big event.

Nice work Tinker on the '57!

[Tinker]

Thanks 46yblock. Also It would be great to see that one run. Sounds like a nice event to see.

Installed the machined flywheel, 11" clutch and pressure plate. Transmission now connected to the engine. Had a pressure plate bolt snap in the flywheel. So that was fun. Was reusing the old bolts and i guess that one couldnt handle the 20lb torque. All went well after removing the flywheel and dropping it on the drill press to drill it out. And the best thing is the Ease out didnt break . Picked up some grade 8s bolts at ace and torqued it all together.

[Tinker]

Finally some paint... maybe an engine this weekend.

[Tinker]

Nothing like the roar of a open header yblock on a Sunday afternoon! Even if it was for a few seconds. But boy did it sound good.

In a dark alley (garage) they met.


Drove it out of the garage under it's own power! *note* the engine never ran for more then a few seconds. No water yet.



Now I just have to do all the little things. That list is LONG!

[Tinker]

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Getting down the home stretch of assembly. All new ss brake lines, brake hoses, fuel lines. Putting the gas tank in was a real pleasure . In the process of rewiring now.

[Tinker]

I have most of the wiring sorted out. I don't have a lot of extras so it's fairly simple.

Still need headlights installed but I couldn't resist... (link below). Talking with the wife she is in the camp of "cars should not be heard"! So I'm going to enjoy the hotrod tank for a little while before the real mufflers go on :]' (it is her truck after all)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QIor...ature=youtu.be

[Tinker]

The first video was a little lame... so I had to do another with a little more foot in it. (but not to the floor!) :]. Nice to have a virtually people free industrial area to do my "tuning" at.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0SqBpEPn9Y

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Awesome!
Tinker, you have got to give us more video! Get the mic up close to the exhaust pipes and let 'er rip...

Any video of the engine compartment while she is running?

[Tinker]

Ill have to do that. We have a rain front coming in. Maybe tomorrow.

I have the blown out glass packs from the test stand on it now, just rigged up. Dont want to run around with just straight headers. The exhaust will need to be sorted out soon. Its fun now, but i will want it a lot quieter for driving. Maybe some electric cutouts are in order... Ha ha

[Tinker]

Didn't rain as predicted, so here it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I83t4...ature=youtu.be

Disclaimer: Have a bunch of stuff to button up. accelerator rod will be shorted (wanted to see if that will work before hacking it off), gen rebuild, still hoping for a correct oil dip stick (may go locar and is fine with me), don't have the firewall wire clips in place as I'm not done wiring, exhaust... well that has been noted, headlights, interior, front leaves are worn, barney fife lost his one bullet, dangly dice.... etc...etc...

2.0 complete... more to do.

[LOWRIDER]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Thanks 46yblock. Also It would be great to see that one run. Sounds like a nice event to see.

Installed the machined flywheel, 11" clutch and pressure plate. Transmission now connected to the engine. Had a pressure plate bolt snap in the flywheel. So that was fun. Was reusing the old bolts and i guess that one couldnt handle the 20lb torque. All went well after removing the flywheel and dropping it on the drill press to drill it out. And the best thing is the Ease out didnt break . Picked up some grade 8s bolts at ace and torqued it all together.

My old man showed me a trick removing broken pressure plate bolts waay back in the 60's. He'd take a bolt the same size, grind an angle on the end then screw it in from the back of the flywheel. Once it hit the broken bolt it would just screw it out.

Cool truck/project. Glad I'm money challenged otherwise I'd have half finished projects all over.

[Tinker]

I should mention that I did change out the grade8 bolts on the pressure plate to proper ARP shouldered bolts. Wasn't a wise or safe move to use grade 8s, just was caught up in the git'r'done mode.

[Tinker]

Been having some fun driving the 57 and working out the bugs. Started putting some things back in the interior. The truck has a lot of character and I wouldn't want to change that ever, they are the little details that make it special to us.

Headliner back in. Shift knob is a dice block that my wife gave him many years ago.


How about some custom painted Abes!



How about a clutch pedal counter! When I first saw this I was kind of wondering what this was all about. I guess you know when your clutch is ready to be changed or if someone was in your truck! I left it in and I reset it for the new clutch.


Places its been...




Just a few things...

[scrapiron]

Glad it's worked out for you. Panels are neat,,,had a '56 with a 352,,sneaky stop light dragster,,
I notice it has a bench seat, I had one from a 60's Fairlane 4 door in mine.
Where in FL are you?

[Tinker]

Thanks Scrapiron. I do like the panels. Your 56 definitely sounds like it would move right along! It has been kind of nice working on a more modern vehicle :], apposed to the 1930s vehicles I've worked on in the past. Nice to go to the parts stores and just pick something up and the way it drives is nice too. I'm in the Tampa Bay area.

Not sure where the seat came from. The arm rests came off my wife's ol' 63 mercury monterey parts car.

[Tinker]

Picture from lakeland drag strip. Didn't run it on the 1/8 mile, but it ran flawless for the 130 mile trip. Did get a few burnouts in... also. :]

Never got over 160 degrees, guess I'll have to stick a 180 thermostat in the yblock.