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Old 12-23-2020, 02:19 PM   #21
KenBolton
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Default Re: Rear Hub Torque

“Snug” is ninety pounds. So what is the solution if sleazes are not?
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Old 12-23-2020, 02:50 PM   #22
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Default Re: Rear Hub Torque

[QUOTE=aermotor;1964908]
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Originally Posted by Synchro909 View Post
I see how that happens but IMO, it is only laziness. I get the split pin lined up by taking a small amount of metal off the back of the nut[/QUOE]

I can't see where over torqueing by an extra 30 pounds or so to line up the pin would cause any harm considering most torque comments are finding the nuts loose.
John
A possible problem with over torqueing is stripping the threads on a marginal axle--now you have a real problem.
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Old 12-23-2020, 04:38 PM   #23
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Default Re: Rear Hub Torque

[QUOTE=goodcar;1965905]
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A possible problem with over torqueing is stripping the threads on a marginal axle--now you have a real problem.
No, the problem started when the original parts became worn or damaged to the point they could not be restored to original specs.

This stuff worked fine when it left the factory, why do you think it will work with less than half the torque spec on a worn out taper surface. The taper needs a 90% contact surface to stay tight. The maximum torque spec for 5/8-18 and the steels involved is 240 ft lb. If you can't get to 200 minimum, you are probably using Chinese parts and they will come loose.
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Old 12-23-2020, 06:41 PM   #24
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Default Re: Rear Hub Torque

[QUOTE=Pete;1965948]
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No, the problem started when the original parts became worn or damaged to the point they could not be restored to original specs.

This stuff worked fine when it left the factory, why do you think it will work with less than half the torque spec on a worn out taper surface. The taper needs a 90% contact surface to stay tight. The maximum torque spec for 5/8-18 and the steels involved is 240 ft lb. If you can't get to 200 minimum, you are probably using Chinese parts and they will come loose.
I wasn't implying that over torqueing was causing an original problem, I should have said an additional problem on a "marginal" axle. These cars are 90+ years old, lots of wear on everything. Spec on the axle according to Les Andrews is 125 ft lbs but nice to know that you should be able to go to 240.
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:34 PM   #25
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Default Re: Rear Hub Torque

I'm wonderin' if the OP (KenBolton) is using the proper original style nuts, as on the left in the attached pic, not the "modern" ones as on the right.
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File Type: jpg Axle nuts 2.jpg (53.7 KB, 28 views)
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Old 12-24-2020, 09:47 AM   #26
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“Snug” equals 90-100 lbs. Bearings, keys and nuts are new. Taper well cleaned with wax and grease remover. Plus new taper sleeves. What else is recommended if the sleeves are temporary but switch out the axels?
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Old 12-24-2020, 10:39 AM   #27
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Default Re: Rear Hub Torque

Have you checked the depth of the keyway in both the axles and the hubs? That could tell you if the axles or the hubs are the problem.
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Old 12-24-2020, 11:10 AM   #28
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Default Re: Rear Hub Torque

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Originally Posted by KenBolton View Post
“Snug” equals 90-100 lbs. Bearings, keys and nuts are new. Taper well cleaned with wax and grease remover. Plus new taper sleeves. What else is recommended if the sleeves are temporary but switch out the axels?
I would not say that sleeves are temporary. If there is just slight wear on the taper and just one sleeve takes that up. You could be good for many many miles or years depending on how you drive.

Using a good key and the correct torque goes along way.

Have a great Holiday.

Last edited by WHN; 12-26-2020 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 12-26-2020, 10:19 AM   #29
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Key ways are surprisingly good! Thanks again for all of the input.
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Old 12-27-2020, 04:33 PM   #30
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Default Re: Rear Hub Torque

I don't know. Heck I always made sure I had a good axle key, then tightened the thing down good, put the key in it and went on...
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