Rear brake roller track?

[jbond]

Attached are 2 pictures of my rear roller track. Is it worn to much? Note that it angles out or down from the center.

[Purdy Swoft]

They really don't look that bad . Mine usually have dips where the roller pins have worn the tracks. I usually weld and grind the tracks level install the shoes and check with a centering tool and proceed to either build up more or grind more as needed. The number one concern is being able to get the drums over the relined shoes without drag. The next thing is how perfect do you want it to be. A centering tool will show where you are at and which way that you need to go, up or down to perfectly center the shoes within the drum. If you don't have the equipment to weld the tracks, you can heat and bend them with a blunt punch or metal rod and hammer, up or down as needed or you can grind them level and use Flathead Teds adjustable square centering pins. You don't need the complete kit . The pins can be purchased seperately . Replacing the track assembly won't center the shoes without adjustments .

[700rpm]

I have ground and/or filed tracks flat with minimal wear like you show, then adjusted as Purdy describes. The objective is to get the rollers to roll, and that requires a flat track. If you leave them as is, the rollers will continue to hang up and wear the tracks. With the amount of driving most of us will do flat and smooth tracks will probably last the rest of our lives.

Note: see my correction below.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The rollers will roll against the cam, but the pins that ride the tracks won't roll. At least I can't see them rolling since they have a fairly tight fit in the shoes. I think this is a poor design with rapid wear, and square head pins would have been much better. Grease the tracks with high temp grease.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

My take is it depends on whether your goal is to repair, --or to restore. If you take the "it'll be good enuf" attitude, yes they will be OK but the tracks are what holds the shoe parallel into the parabolic shape of the drum. What I see will only let the one shoe give about 30%-40% contact because it will let it move away from center.

[700rpm]

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Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The rollers will roll against the cam, but the pins that ride the tracks won't roll. At least I can't see them rolling since they have a fairly tight fit in the shoes. I think this is a poor design with rapid wear, and square head pins would have been much better. Grease the tracks with high temp grease.

I meant pins, not rollers. Thanks Tom.

[glenn in camino]

I'd build them up with weld and grind them flat with my dye grinder. That should last as long as you keep the car. Also center the shoes.

[larrys40]

The guys above have you well on "track" so to speak! I would also suggest that you check your brake camshaft lever bushings on the backing plate to make sure they are tight, and that the grease fittings work along with clevis pins tight, etc. Oversize are available on the clevis pins if needed.

The Model A brakes are well capable of working well if they are "restored" to their original performance and clearances, etc. With proper adjustment and restoration you will be amazed. Good luck!
Larry S

[Purdy Swoft]

I agree with Larry !!!