The Ford Barn

Patrick L. · 11-10-2014, 12:34 PM

I've heard that MGB rear shocks will fit and work on our monsters without any mods.
So, is that really true, and, if so, any certain years ? And, which links/arms?

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 11-10-2014, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

I've heard that MGB rear shocks will fit and work on our monsters without any mods.
So, is that really true, and, if so, any certain years ? And, which links/arms?

Yes, more specifically you are searching for Armstrong shocks. These were also used on Jags, Austin Healey, etc. Usually they are all over eBay both is NORS & used.

Keith True · 11-10-2014, 01:20 PM

You will have to do a little adapting for the links-arms.You can carve up some A arms to weld on to make them look more A,Or you can make up some links using A parts,or do as I did,just put a ball on the end of the brit shock arm.You will have to do some heating and bending of the arms to get the right offset.They're not original,so nobody will really care what the look like.They do look old fashioned on the A though.I think they work pretty slick.The guy I did them for thinks they are perfect.

700rpm · 11-10-2014, 01:51 PM

I never noticed that the shocks on my MG had any discernible beneficial effect. But it was a TD.

Patrick L. · 11-10-2014, 02:01 PM

OK, thanks. This is interesting. I was about to order a second set of Stipes, probably should have ordered 2 sets the first time.
I may [probably will] try Armstrong's and see what happens. I refuse to use tubes, and, as long they still look 'old timey' they'll be fine for my stuff.
I don't think I'll want to weld on the arms, I'd like to be able to remove them if needed.
Thanks again.

Hotrodfil · 11-10-2014, 05:01 PM

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I use MGB shocks on the rear. I normally weld an A shock ball in on the opposite side to the original MG one and use a standard model A shock link.

700rpm · 11-10-2014, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

OK, thanks. This is interesting. I was about to order a second set of Stipes, probably should have ordered 2 sets the first time.
I may [probably will] try Armstrong's and see what happens. I refuse to use tubes, and, as long they still look 'old timey' they'll be fine for my stuff.
I don't think I'll want to weld on the arms, I'd like to be able to remove them if needed.
Thanks again.

I just talked to Stipes today. They aren't taking any more orders, but you can put your name on a list if there are any extras from this current, and apparently last, run.

springerpete · 11-11-2014, 07:10 AM

I agree with Ray (700rpm). The shocks on my '58 Healey 100-6 are there but I don't think they do too much. Axles feel like they are welded to the frame !

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 11-11-2014, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by springerpete

I agree with Ray (700rpm). The shocks on my '58 Healey 100-6 are there but I don't think they do too much. Axles feel like they are welded to the frame !

There are several ways to tune the Armstrong shocks, ...providing yours are functioning properly (from your description it sounds like they have run dry of oil and are now frozen) The easiest way to tune them is to change the viscosity of the oil. From experience, I can tell you these shocks work great however they just do not have the tuning capability of an original-type shock.

rusty12 · 11-11-2014, 08:53 AM

I have never heard of this conversion before and I don't know what these shocks look like. Could someone post some photos? Thanks.

Keith True · 11-11-2014, 09:14 AM

If your Healey rides like a tank there is something very wrong.My first experience with those type shocks was on a Healey.The rears were froze up,and the frame mounting point was flexing along with the springs.The owner said the shocks weren't frozen because he could bounce the back of the car up and down by hand.One thing I've found with original brit shocks is the moisture in the fluid is gone,leaving behind a powder.It is not corrosion,but the residue from the dried up oil.I have no idea what the fluid was to do that,but that is what I've mostly seen with them.You will always get a few that are rusted solid like an A shock does,and sometimes they will look like they have old grease in them.You can get plenty of pictures of them on ebay to get an idea of what they look like.

Patrick L. · 11-11-2014, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty12

I have never heard of this conversion before and I don't know what these shocks look like. Could someone post some photos? Thanks.

Like Keith said, ebay has pictures of them. {rear]

zzlegend · 11-11-2014, 10:14 AM

Mine.

Keith True · 11-11-2014, 10:17 AM

If you want to get them off a junk car you will have to find two junk cars.On all the british stuff I've worked on the shocks that are configured like the A are on the rear only.The fronts all have a shock with a shaft sticking out both ends,and a Y shaped arm,or yoke that reaches out over the top of the ball joint or kingpin.The rears are different from right to left,but that is because the arms are sometimes one peice with the operating shaft.You can't unbolt them and flip them over.They may not all be that way,there are dozens of applications for those shock units.I think I got some off a MG Midget,they're a light car,they worked great on the A.I had put a pair of rebuilt A shocks from Berts on the rear of an old fellows 29 pickup.It stopped the bouncing,but beat him pretty hard.I put the MG shocks on the rear and it was fine.I then used the Berts reduilds on the rear of a sedan and that was fine.They worked correctly,but the empty pickup was just too rough for the old boy.

V8COOPMAN · 11-11-2014, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty12

I have never heard of this conversion before and I don't know what these shocks look like. Could someone post some photos? Thanks.

Here's what they look like. DD

RobertB · 11-11-2014, 11:38 AM

Finally something I know about! My other collector car is a 1974.5 MGB GT.

The lever shocks work fine if they are in good shape. Contact Peter Caldwell at Worldwide Auto Parts, http://www.nosimport.com/ and tell him I sent you.

He's the leading remanufacturer of these shocks in the US and does a very high quality job.

If you tell him your use, he can reccomend the right shock and adjust the valving to handle the Model A.

I've bought several sets from him. He can supply the shock outright, or will rebuild yours if you find some at a swap meet or wrecking yard.

juke joint johnny · 11-11-2014, 12:33 PM

So do you have to drill the frame to mount them or will they fit in the original holes ?

John Cochran

Patrick L. · 11-11-2014, 01:42 PM

This is good info, thanks.
Those mounted shock pics look fine.
I'll check out the website. That looks like a good website with quite a bit to chose from. I'll give them a call and have a chat.

zzlegend · 11-11-2014, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juke joint johnny

So do you have to drill the frame to mount them or will they fit in the original holes ?

John Cochran

One thing that has not been discussed is the bolt pattern. If I recall, mine are MGA and they have the exact bolt pattern as an A. MGB are close but about 1/4" narrower hole to hole so you might have to redrill one hole. Just my 2 cents.

wensum · 11-11-2014, 02:22 PM

Here in New Zealand Ford Zephyr Mk3 rear shocks are used as an alternative and are very similar to an MGB shock.
I have a pair that I intend to install, but the arms will need minor bending and I haven't work out yet how to deal with the ball fitting.
It just feels right to be using a Ford compnent on a Ford
Keith

11-10-2014, 12:34 PM	#1
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	MGB shock questions I've heard that MGB rear shocks will fit and work on our monsters without any mods. So, is that really true, and, if so, any certain years ? And, which links/arms?

11-10-2014, 01:20 PM	#3
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,983	Re: MGB shock questions You will have to do a little adapting for the links-arms.You can carve up some A arms to weld on to make them look more A,Or you can make up some links using A parts,or do as I did,just put a ball on the end of the brit shock arm.You will have to do some heating and bending of the arms to get the right offset.They're not original,so nobody will really care what the look like.They do look old fashioned on the A though.I think they work pretty slick.The guy I did them for thinks they are perfect.

11-10-2014, 01:51 PM	#4
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,902	Re: MGB shock questions I never noticed that the shocks on my MG had any discernible beneficial effect. But it was a TD. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

11-10-2014, 02:01 PM	#5
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: MGB shock questions OK, thanks. This is interesting. I was about to order a second set of Stipes, probably should have ordered 2 sets the first time. I may [probably will] try Armstrong's and see what happens. I refuse to use tubes, and, as long they still look 'old timey' they'll be fine for my stuff. I don't think I'll want to weld on the arms, I'd like to be able to remove them if needed. Thanks again.

11-10-2014, 05:01 PM	#6
Hotrodfil Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Norfolk UK Posts: 213	Re: MGB shock questions Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I use MGB shocks on the rear. I normally weld an A shock ball in on the opposite side to the original MG one and use a standard model A shock link.

11-11-2014, 07:10 AM	#8
springerpete Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Central Maine Posts: 643	Re: MGB shock questions I agree with Ray (700rpm). The shocks on my '58 Healey 100-6 are there but I don't think they do too much. Axles feel like they are welded to the frame !

11-11-2014, 08:53 AM	#10
rusty12 Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 89	Re: MGB shock questions I have never heard of this conversion before and I don't know what these shocks look like. Could someone post some photos? Thanks.

11-11-2014, 09:14 AM	#11
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,983	Re: MGB shock questions If your Healey rides like a tank there is something very wrong.My first experience with those type shocks was on a Healey.The rears were froze up,and the frame mounting point was flexing along with the springs.The owner said the shocks weren't frozen because he could bounce the back of the car up and down by hand.One thing I've found with original brit shocks is the moisture in the fluid is gone,leaving behind a powder.It is not corrosion,but the residue from the dried up oil.I have no idea what the fluid was to do that,but that is what I've mostly seen with them.You will always get a few that are rusted solid like an A shock does,and sometimes they will look like they have old grease in them.You can get plenty of pictures of them on ebay to get an idea of what they look like.

11-11-2014, 10:17 AM	#14
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,983	Re: MGB shock questions If you want to get them off a junk car you will have to find two junk cars.On all the british stuff I've worked on the shocks that are configured like the A are on the rear only.The fronts all have a shock with a shaft sticking out both ends,and a Y shaped arm,or yoke that reaches out over the top of the ball joint or kingpin.The rears are different from right to left,but that is because the arms are sometimes one peice with the operating shaft.You can't unbolt them and flip them over.They may not all be that way,there are dozens of applications for those shock units.I think I got some off a MG Midget,they're a light car,they worked great on the A.I had put a pair of rebuilt A shocks from Berts on the rear of an old fellows 29 pickup.It stopped the bouncing,but beat him pretty hard.I put the MG shocks on the rear and it was fine.I then used the Berts reduilds on the rear of a sedan and that was fine.They worked correctly,but the empty pickup was just too rough for the old boy.

11-11-2014, 11:38 AM	#16
RobertB Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Santa Teresa, NM Posts: 133	Re: MGB shock questions Finally something I know about! My other collector car is a 1974.5 MGB GT. The lever shocks work fine if they are in good shape. Contact Peter Caldwell at Worldwide Auto Parts, http://www.nosimport.com/ and tell him I sent you. He's the leading remanufacturer of these shocks in the US and does a very high quality job. If you tell him your use, he can reccomend the right shock and adjust the valving to handle the Model A. I've bought several sets from him. He can supply the shock outright, or will rebuild yours if you find some at a swap meet or wrecking yard. __________________ RobertB Santa Teresa, NM

11-11-2014, 12:33 PM	#17
juke joint johnny Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: London England Posts: 908	Re: MGB shock questions So do you have to drill the frame to mount them or will they fit in the original holes ? John Cochran

11-11-2014, 01:42 PM	#18
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: MGB shock questions This is good info, thanks. Those mounted shock pics look fine. I'll check out the website. That looks like a good website with quite a bit to chose from. I'll give them a call and have a chat. Last edited by Patrick L.; 11-11-2014 at 01:49 PM.

11-11-2014, 02:22 PM	#20
wensum Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: New Zealand Posts: 444	Re: MGB shock questions Here in New Zealand Ford Zephyr Mk3 rear shocks are used as an alternative and are very similar to an MGB shock. I have a pair that I intend to install, but the arms will need minor bending and I haven't work out yet how to deal with the ball fitting. It just feels right to be using a Ford compnent on a Ford Keith