Open driveshaft conversion

[farmerdick]

Hey guys, I am going to have an open driveshaft for my AV8 with 40` rear end and 39` trans. The trans has a 6 spline output shaft and the pinion is also 6 spline. Is there a 6 spline sliding yoke to mate up to the trans? If not, what do I need to do to make this happen? I know I will need to shorten the drive shaft. I will also need to know what u-joints to use. Thank you.
Richard

[cas3]

the 40's pickups had open drive, so you can use that whole rear, or pinion set for the back. as for the front, no one that i know of makes a conversion for the old ford 3 speed to open drive, most guys going that direction would use the modern T5 type trans. probably find better answers at the hamb

[V8COOPMAN]

If you convert your '39 trans to an OPEN-drive type like the '42 and later pick-ups had, you can go ahead and use the normal splined yoke that was designed for the purpose. You'll need the open drive main-shaft, the speedometer gear that goes with it, as well as the open drive rear bearing retainer/motor mount, as pictured below. Contact Mac VanPelt for parts.

Also, read the link just below to help explain this. DD

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...peed-gears.htm

[cas3]

duh...why did that slip my brain!! open rear end had to hook up to something! crs i guess

[mike in tucson]

Don't forget that, if you remove the closed driveline, you may need to add an axle vent since the original vented thru the pinion flange into the torque tube.

[rich b]

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Why? With a '39 trans & '40 rear there is no need to go to open drive and the other changes required.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by rich b

Why? With a '39 trans & '40 rear there is no need to go to open drive and the other changes required.

I'd bet that because we're talking an AV8, the driveshaft and torque tube would have to be shortened. That spooks a bunch of folks. DD

[farmerdick]

Thank you all for the info and I will be contacting VanPelts. I have no worries about shorting the driveshaft and had already put a vent in the rear end housing. Oh!! by the way, what did you all think of that incredible win by the Patriots?
Richard

[av8coupe]

A couple of thoughts. I had the torque tube and driveshaft shortened for my AV8coupe. It worked out great. One other thing to consider is that once you remove your torque tube there is no attaching point for your rear radius rods and something must be fabricated.

[flatford8]

Good luck with your project. Pats were AWESOME!!!!!!......Mark

[rotorwrench]

Some folks use the 35/36 rear axle due to the stronger radius rods but a torque arm is a really good idea. The rear axle wouldn't be stable without something fairly heavy to push against. The torque tube is still the best form of rear axle control when you have a buggy spring rear axle. A machine shop can easily cut the flange to shorten the T/tube and a drive shaft shop could weld it and a shorter hollow tube drive shaft up. A person has to find a good front stub shaft from an earlier hollow drive shaft and a 6 to 10-spline adapter for them to make one up. Dick Spadaro used to make a real nice kit but he only had so many made up before he went off the the big hot rod shop in the sky.

[tubman]

Doesn't "Speedway" make a kit just for this purpose?

[farmerdick]

I am already making provisions for radius rods off the axle. I will try and get them as close to the hubs as possible and as close together at the transmission to replicate the original radius rods. And make sure they are beefy.
Richard

[Ol' Ron]

I really like threads like this, it gives the readers an idea of what's involved in making a change.In this case the change doesn't accomplish much, changing Old for OLD. Installing an 80's Ford pU trans with 3sp/OD and a late rear, would probably cost the same and be more beneficial.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by farmerdick

I am already making provisions for radius rods off the axle. I will try and get them as close to the hubs as possible and as close together at the transmission to replicate the original radius rods. And make sure they are beefy.
Richard

farmerdick.......We're familiar with the importance of, and the logistics involved with modifying the geometry of a Ford torque tube and radius rods, as well as the forces and stresses placed upon the entire rear suspension system. We addressed all of this recently when we incorporated a Borg-Warner T5 into a '35 Ford drivetrain, while retaining a fully-functional and fully-articulating STOCK Ford torque tube (although shortened) and radius rods (full-length), as can be seen in it's entirety by clicking on the "T5 W/TORQUE TUBE" at the lower left of this post to read the thread. My ONLY point to be made here is the importance of having your radius rods attach securely TO THE TORQUE TUBE, as they did in the stock application. "CLOSE TOGETHER at the transmission" is not close-enough for the rear suspension to articulate without some form of binding and stress. The entire torque tube /radius rods MUST articulate as ONE assembly around the theoretical center point of the U-joint clamshell assembly. I hope this helps your project. DD

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I really like threads like this, it gives the readers an idea of what's involved in making a change.In this case the change doesn't accomplish much, changing Old for OLD. Installing an 80's Ford pU trans with 3sp/OD and a late rear, would probably cost the same and be more beneficial.

That's what I did with my Model A Pickup. It has the Ford Tremec 3-speed + OD transmission with a shortened driveshaft/torque tube and radius rods. Stock rear end.