Engine Rebuilder on ebay

[arnhemmer]

How's that engine from Bert's working out for you. Thinking about ordering from them.

[geoking]

References needed: I am going to have an inserted B engine built and need up to date advice.PLEASE . If you have recent experience with an engine builder, good or bad...please contact me or provide your number for me to call.
Thank you very much!
George King
Huntsville Al
256 520 4401 cell
[email protected] email

[dlshady]

Welcome to the asylum George!

[Y-Blockhead]

What's the latest on the "T". https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67881

[Pickupman]

Why not start a new thread with your questions instead of hijacking this thread? I'm sure you will get a better response.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

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Originally Posted by James Rogers

Inserted engines don't need to be pressurized to last. I have built many with the original oiling and have had no problems. I am a firm believer that any competent rebuilder would never do any machine work to the pan rails or the main cap seats. These areas are machined at the same time and are how the crank is located to the cam. Changing this could make the relationship incorrect and cause undue wear to the cam or mains or the gears.

Just my experienced opinion.

I don't agree with that, James. If you have a pan rail that is warped by a few thousandths, and many are, you can not surface the block correctly, as the block will teeter, or will pull down at an incorrect angle. Also the same reason for the boring of the cylinders., they have to be with the center line with the crank. Vern has done two Model T's, and one Model A already this year, buy surfacing the pan rails, along with the three Mains part line. You just can't leave them like that.


This does not affect the center distance what so ever. The first thing you should do is , the boring bar has to be set dead center between the two main bolt holes, on no. 1, and 3. That measurement should never again move, and if it does, it should be, redone, and kept there. The next step the boring bar should now ONLY be moved up and down, for Center distance, while the bar is still dead center between the main bolt holes


The only thing that could change is the stack of shims, under the caps. I have always used .032 thousandths, and it never has effected anything what so ever.


Herm.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Pickupman

Why not start a new thread with your questions instead of hijacking this thread? I'm sure you will get a better response.

Well, EXCUUUSSSEEE ME!!!

[dlshady]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

What's the latest on the "T" https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67881

It's still moving along, and I need my butt kicked for not having updated the thread in so long. Once I get a little bit of tax paperwork out of the way this week I'll get busy with a proper update.

[Chris Haynes]

I have heard nothing but good things about the Turlock builder.

[Chris Haynes]

Here is my Inserted engine with Pressure oiling, Counterbalanced B Crank, Riley head, Yada, Yada, Yada. Just finished by Joe Sivils at Turlock Machine. Joe Sivils runs a one man shop. His attention to detail is superb.