Engine stands revisited.

[Fred K-OR]

Need some help to get my intestinal fortitude built up enough to try my new engine stand. I purchased a HF 2000 lb stand today for around $103. It was $149.99, went on sale until 3-31-12 for $129.99 and I got it with the 20% discount thing you find in their ads for around $103. I thought it was a good deal so went for it. But the point of this post is not to sell HF stuff but to ask a couple of questions about using this thing and thought I would let you all know about the deal at HF is someone wants one. Attached are some pictures of it.

One question I have is will this thing hold an engine that has everthing on it (flywheel, head, manifolds, pan-no tranny at this time) by hooking it to the left water outlet? (see my pictures) Next question is-can I add the tranny and have it still hold it up? I positioned the bracket that bolts to the motor as far back toward the flywheel as I could so it would balance better.

If I have things all set up wrong, please let me know. Thanks again.

[ed thibodeau]

My stand with a homemade side mount from a design that appeared in one of the mags. years ago holds the complete assy with trans. But if you want to turn it down with the nose up then the flywheel housing hits the upright column. I just used it and I put the gen. manifolds. water pump etc on it with no problems. My stand is about 20 yrs old and is made in china.

[ctlikon0712]

With the "outriggers" you shouldn't have any problems. Not sure about your lower bracket, that would depend on how well it mates up with the upper pan flange. I included a pic of my stand and it worked great with engine to clutch. I did try the tranny on it and it was too unstable to roll around.

[ken ct]

I dont like 3 wheel engine stands get a 4 wheel one.There too tippy. OMO ken ct.

[Bob C]

Here is one Bratton's sells.http://www.brattons.com/product.asp?...=any&PT_ID=all

Bob

[Steve Wastler]

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I would not use the supplied adapter plate on the A engine, get the one posted above at Brattons, the stand should work fine

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by ken ct

I dont like 3 wheel engine stands get a 4 wheel one.There too tippy. OMO ken ct.

This HF one has 5 wheels but they recommend to not roll it around when the engine is mounted on it.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by ctlikon0712

With the "outriggers" you shouldn't have any problems. Not sure about your lower bracket, that would depend on how well it mates up with the upper pan flange. I included a pic of my stand and it worked great with engine to clutch. I did try the tranny on it and it was too unstable to roll around.

Did you build that "L" bracket that you use to attach to the head at the water outlet or did you buy it somewhere? If you built it, what type of material did you make it out of? I kind of like this setup because it balances the engine more so when you rotate it you can control the rotation better (I would think??).

[ctlikon0712]

Yes I built it, it is 6061-T6 0.250" Aluminum. I used a large radius at the bend so there wouldn’t be any cracking... a .75 Radius die I think. The motor was very easy to rotate, once I got the center figured out. And this setup also allowed me to access the pulley snout for turning the engine over. The Stand was given to me free otherwise I would have gotten a 4 caster version which as the Ken ct. stated is more stable for sure.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yep, especially with the heavy flywheel hanging that far out over the single wheel makes this very unstable. A guy could weld a crossbar to the end of the single bar and mount two casters on it for more stability.

[Mikeinnj]

Get the one from Brattons..... It allows more access and rotates 360 degrees and is much more stable on a three wheeler as it positions the engine close (over) the two rear wheels.
It uses the water neck bolt holes and the oil pan bolt holes to hold the engine. That three wheeler in the photo looks unstable and it would make things difficult to install such as pistons, head, etc.

[Colorado Greg]

The way you have the adapter looks ok to me. It doesn't seem like the two bolts for the H2O inlet will hold the engine, but in this application, it is all sheer strength and not pulling on any threads. They have way more strength than is needed for this. I used the adapter that Berts makes/sells and it was considerably cheaper than the one at Brattons. Someone from the local A club might have one to loan you as well.

If you are adjusting the mains, you might have some trouble with your adapter. You need to be able to get to the nut on the center main. It was pretty tight with my pictured adapter.

p.s. The process is much easier if you remove the dip stick before attaching the adapter. LOL I love learning things the hard way!

[DBF 30]

I recently purchased the exact 2000 lb engine stand from Harbor Freight that you have. Last week I pulled my motor and transmission as one assembly. I used the blue engine adapter that Bert's sells to bolt to the water inlet on side of block. Used one inch grade 8 bolts with flat and lock washer to bolt adapter to block. Also oil fill pipe must come out to mount adapter.

I pulled engine and transmission as one and then mounted with side mount on the HF stand. Stand was extreamly stable with complete assembly. I did remove the trans and bellhousing before moving it around much. It rolls around easily and is very stable with the full engine mounted.

Only minor dissapointment was that I had to drill the holes in the 2 inch pipe on Bert's side adapter so I could use the locking pin to rotate the engine in four different positions. I assume the hole were not drilled so it would work with a wide variety of stands so I can't complain. Bert's Model A are good people to deal with and the adapter is well built, works good and priced reasonably.

So far I am very pleased with that engine stand. Hope this helps.

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks DBF 30. Now I may have the intestinal fortitude to lift the motor to the stand and give it a try.

[Brian T]

Hello Fred,

Here are some pics of how I mounted mine without the extra adaptor, it gives reasonable access to the center main bolt nut.
Something to remember is without the adaptor the engine will be a bit top heavy so care should be taken when rotating the engine, a long bar or an extra hand might be advisable,
in addition there was no problem with the flywheel and housing attached.

[steamgas]

here's mine
only made a few chages to an over the counter engine stand.did have to make 4 pc's of tubing and 4 studs with nut's.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Brian T

Hello Fred,

Here are some pics of how I mounted mine without the extra adapter, it gives reasonable access to the center main bolt nut.
Something to remember is without the adapter the engine will be a bit top heavy so care should be taken when rotating the engine, a long bar or an extra hand might be advisable,
in addition there was no problem with the flywheel and housing attached.

Hi Brian,

How did you attach the bottom to the flange where the oil pan bolts on? It looks like you used an angle iron all the way across??

The point about the center main bolt nut is a good point. I did not think about that and am hoping I don't have to worry about taking that off. I am hoping the mains and rods are in good shape and all I need to do is clean the pan and check the seals.

Thanks guys for all the ideas. Now guess I need to get out and "Just do it" and kill the chicken in me.

[Brian T]

Fred,
I forgot to add this pic, yes we used a piece of angle iron bolted to the top of the pan rail, I had previously made 4 guide studs for a oil pan refit from 5/16 x 2 inch bolts with a slot in one end, and added nuts for extra safety.

If you are going to check the mains also check the crankshaft end play, I installed the new thrust that is available from the vendors, I have pics on how I did mine if you need them.

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks Brian. Think I will do a little more work on this thing before I start to use it.

[Bruce of MN]

I have the even cheaper HF stand and have an angle iron piece that bolts to the water connection. It had fewer links, so it seemed more "tight". I did have to go back and forth between the side and the front end attaching positions using my engine hoist. Not very efficient, but as seldom as I hope I have to use it, it wasn't awful.

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Need some help to get my intestinal fortitude built up enough to try my new engine stand. I purchased a HF 2000 lb stand today for around $103. It was $149.99, went on sale until 3-31-12 for $129.99 and I got it with the 20% discount thing you find in their ads for around $103. I thought it was a good deal so went for it. But the point of this post is not to sell HF stuff but to ask a couple of questions about using this thing and thought I would let you all know about the deal at HF is someone wants one. Attached are some pictures of it.

One question I have is will this thing hold an engine that has everthing on it (flywheel, head, manifolds, pan-no tranny at this time) by hooking it to the left water outlet? (see my pictures) Next question is-can I add the tranny and have it still hold it up? I positioned the bracket that bolts to the motor as far back toward the flywheel as I could so it would balance better.

If I have things all set up wrong, please let me know. Thanks again.