Value of an overhauled 1951 flathead V8

[Alaska Mike]

I have a flathead V8 out of a 1951 pickup. I had all of the machine work done at a very qualified automotive machine shop here locally. All new pistons, bearings, valves, etc. I completed it in 1973 for a project I had at the time. Well time has passed, the project car is long gone. I have had this engine on a pallet in dry storage for over 40 years.

A local mechanic is restoring a 1940 for truck for one of his customers, and the engine is junk. They think they would like to put my engine in this truck. I have told them it is a flathead, but not like their original engine, but they think they still want this one.

I turned the engine over, no rust in the cylinders, everything looks just like I put it together over 40 years ago. It has never been run.

My question is, what is it worth? I appreciate all your knowledge and help! Mike

[Karl Wolf]

Add up all your new parts, machine work and assembly, adjust for inflation, the value of a good block... That's what it would cost for them to reproduce what you're selling.
Then subtract for the fact that you do want it to leave...

Karl

[alanwoodieman]

I have one in a 40 truck (51 Merc) yes it will work but requires a few changes to fit the 40 frame and the readiator/fan. We just built a 51 flathead engine and the cost of block assembly/parts/machine shop and rebuilding came to about $4000.00 this was without water pumps, carb, gen, starter.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Alaska Mike

I have a flathead V8 out of a 1951 pickup. I had all of the machine work done at a very qualified automotive machine shop here locally. All new pistons, bearings, valves, etc. I completed it in 1973 for a project I had at the time. Well time has passed, the project car is long gone. I have had this engine on a pallet in dry storage for over 40 years.

A local mechanic is restoring a 1940 for truck for one of his customers, and the engine is junk. They think they would like to put my engine in this truck. I have told them it is a flathead, but not like their original engine, but they think they still want this one.

I turned the engine over, no rust in the cylinders, everything looks just like I put it together over 40 years ago. It has never been run.

My question is, what is it worth? I appreciate all your knowledge and help! Mike

I am not an expert by a long way but I think the newer flathead is longer and the bell housing is different. I am sure it can be done but I think a post asking the question about the amount of work required is in order before he goes to far. If I had a '40 truck I wouldn't want it hacked up to put a later flathead in.

Charlie Stephens

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Karl Wolf

Add up all your new parts, machine work and assembly, adjust for inflation, the value of a good block... That's what it would cost for them to reproduce what you're selling.
Then subtract for the fact that you do want it to leave...

Karl

I like this approach! What makes it all valid is if you kept all receipts detailing the parts used. Eliminate the unknown of what's inside the engine. Almost as good as a running engine.

[19Fordy]

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If it's as good as you say and you guarantee it has no leaks or cracks and will run great. $4500 Plus, the rebuild parts you used are probably better than what's out there today.

I have an 8BA in my 40 Ford car and can tell you from first hand experience that you don't have to "cut up" the 40 engine compartment to get it to fit. However, using the stock 8BA fan pulley and carrier bracket is challenging since the 8BA fan will sit too high and cut into the radiator hoses.

[alanwoodieman]

no problem with bellhousing, problem is engine mount/water pump and the fan location. use truck water pumps, do away with the two belt drive system, acquire a 39-40 front pulley, cut it down to remove engine front seal surface, remember 49-53 engine ran a collar on the crank for the front engine seal, check alignment of the single drive belt and then bolt fan dirrectly to front of crankshaft -where it originally was

[lonewolf]

4500.00 good luck

[JSeery]

They'll need the 1/2 bellhousing, no big deal, but they'll need one.

[AnthonyG]

If that engine was bought today freshly rebuilt carb to starter complete it would be $6000 from a reputable rebuild house with a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty. You won't be giving a warranty. Not sure what you mean by dry storage, so there is a certain amount of buyer be ware involved. I'd ask $5500 but be negotiable.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by lonewolf

4500.00 good luck

You may be right. Check this one out that sold for $2500.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ght=8ba+engine

[jimTN]

Depends on what was done, proper work would be bore cyl, turn crank, new mains, rod bearings , pistons, rings, oil pump, valves, guides, springs and keepers, cam bearings and new water pumps. There are a lot of definations on rebuilt or reconditioned engines but the above is required for trouble free motoring.

[Brendan]

I bought two good 21 stud motors for 500 bucks each. they are good strong runners!

[Vanspeed]

4500 for a flathead with no receipts is not gonna happen. I'd be hard pressed to buy the motor unless I could hear it run.

[Ken Crans]

I paid 2200 for a running flathead with everything there ready to run..

[Ol' Ron]

If you know what your doing it's a bolt in with all ford parts. Put one in a 39 PU.
Yes 4K$ at least

[AnthonyG]

You may be right. Check this one out that sold for $2500.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ght=8ba+engine

Wow, what a great deal that was!! Like a good barn find, pretty elusive. Wish I'd have seen that one when it was alive.

[42merc]

OP said it came from a '51 pickup.
It would have the correct parts for a bolt in.

[Ross F-1]

One thing about a '51; unless you had hardened seats put in at the rebuild, it likely has rotator-type valves and no hardened seats. The seats won't last on unleaded gasohol, ask me how I know...

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

4500 for a flathead with no receipts is not gonna happen. I'd be hard pressed to buy the motor unless I could hear it run.

yes hear it run with water in it and up to operating temp.

[funrunr]

Fire it up and get it running on the ground. You don't even need a transmissions to do so. I like to do it without the fan on and chained to the legs of my cherry picker with overhead chain in place. Once he hears it run he will feel more comfortable paying the $4500. Be sure to make a video of it so you don't have to do it again.

[blucar]

Putting an 8BA engine into a 40 Ford pickup/car is a pretty straight forward installation. They will need a truck/49-50 Merc bell-housing.. A '49 + car bell-housing will not match up to the EV8 Ford trans.. They will also need truck water pumps. I would suggest '40 exhaust manifolds.
The value of your "over hauled" engine is a subjective matter. If you have receipts for all of the work that was done that can be a plus, however, the fact that it has been sitting for 40 years, having never been ran since it was over hauled, makes it an iffy deal..
I would not go to the trouble of installing the engine without completely tearing it down, and re-assembling it if no issues are found.
The big question here is two fold; First of all, what is the value to the buyer? He most likely is hoping to get something for nothing.
The second factor is that the engine has never been ran, the buyer is going to be relucktant to take your word on blind faith. If you want to maximize your return on investment, set the engine up on a test stand so it will run.
There is nothing better than a running engine to pull cash out of a customers wallet.
If you want the engine to go away, price it accordingly.. Say $2,500., you can always go down, it's very hard to bump the price up once you state a price.
At the very least I would suggest that you put oil in the engine, a liberal amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and spin the engine over with a 550 RPM 1/2" drill..
Attached are couple of pix of a 8BA engine in a '37 Ford pickup..

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by blucar

Putting an 8BA engine into a 40 Ford pickup/car is a pretty straight forward installation. They will need a truck/49-50 Merc bell-housing.. A '49 + car bell-housing will not match up to the EV8 Ford trans.. They will also need truck water pumps. I would suggest '40 exhaust manifolds.
The value of your "over hauled" engine is a subjective matter. If you have receipts for all of the work that was done that can be a plus, however, the fact that it has been sitting for 40 years, having never been ran since it was over hauled, makes it an iffy deal..
I would not go to the trouble of installing the engine without completely tearing it down, and re-assembling it if no issues are found.
The big question here is two fold; First of all, what is the value to the buyer? He most likely is hoping to get something for nothing.
The second factor is that the engine has never been ran, the buyer is going to be relucktant to take your word on blind faith. If you want to maximize your return on investment, set the engine up on a test stand so it will run.
There is nothing better than a running engine to pull cash out of a customers wallet.
If you want the engine to go away, price it accordingly.. Say $2,500., you can always go down, it's very hard to bump the price up once you state a price.
At the very least I would suggest that you put oil in the engine, a liberal amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and spin the engine over with a 550 RPM 1/2" drill..
Attached are couple of pix of a 8BA engine in a '37 Ford pickup..

Drop the pan and take off the heads on the engine, take pictures and replace the rings. Overhaul is easy enough to prove. Mike the crank/rods. Then you have some real evidence.

[supereal]

If the engine sat for 40 years, seals and other "soft" parts have likely deteriorated. Buying any engine that hasn't run is a crap shoot. Be sure your buyer is informed, in writing, that the engine is "as-is" with no warranty. A good rebuilt engine costs about five grand if we don't have to remove and install it. A fair price is probably about half that amount for an untested engine with no guarantee.

[blucar]

I recently purchased a "barn find" with only 31k on the odometer, it had not been ran since '93. Fortunately I got a very good deal on the vehicle, a GM product.
Following some very careful servicing, including the use of Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine, we got the car running, sounded pretty good, then things started to leak, mainly oil from the trans and engine.
The engine/trans is now torn down. The hard parts are in very good shape with the exception of the clutch assembly. The engine hard parts are in like new condition, all of the seals/gaskets, etc., are junk, hard and shrunk up.
Of course the condition of the seals, etc., and the clutch assembly is no big surprise to me, I've seen it many times in the past.
In reality, a high mileage vehicle is generally in better shape mechanically than the low mileage vehicles.