Mobil Votage regulator. Is this for a Ford or GM

[solidaxle]

I've Googled, Yahooed and Binged, to no avail. It's a Mobil MC-6 adjustable, 6 volt , + or - ground. I know from the barn there is a difference in the fields but, don't know how to tell.
Thanks Rich

[Bruce Lancaster]

I am looking at an Echlin handbook showing ground paths for Ford and GM circuits...
From what I can see you should have continuity with a test light between A and F terminal on a Ford, between F and the base of the regulator if GM.
Be aware if you get no continuity nohow, many old but new regulators have some corrosion or crud on contacts and need a bit of polishing.

[Rowdy]

I will try to locate my Echlin parts interchange book and see if it is listed. Atleast then you will have a more common part number to work with. Rod

[solidaxle]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

I am looking at an Echlin handbook showing ground paths for Ford and GM circuits...
From what I can see you should have continuity with a test light between A and F terminal on a Ford, between F and the base of the regulator if GM.
Be aware if you get no continuity nohow, many old but new regulators have some corrosion or crud on contacts and need a bit of polishing.

I tested it off the car with my VOM and have continuity between Arm. and FLD. also between FLD and base??

[Rowdy]

I found the cross reference book and have no listings for Mobil coils. Rod

[Rowdy]

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I found a listing for a Motorcraft MC-6 that cross references to Echlin NAPA 4245. That is all I could find. The print on the coil looks to be the same Font as the FOMOCO coils I have. That is the best I can do for now. Rod

[Rowdy]

I also found a MC-6 listed for Bendix P&D that cross references to Echlin NAPA CS-1750. I have ncver seen a CS prefix to be a voltage reugulator, most are condencors but still worth a shot. Hard to say who Mobil sourced the parts from. Rod

[Rowdy]

I found it, but it is alittle confusing as listed but is NAPA Echlin part numbers.
VR-22(2)
VR-25(1)
VR-27(1)

Rod

[Bruce Lancaster]

CS-1750 is a set of points for a mercury outboard, so the number there is just a coincidental match. I've looked into about 1950 and 1975 Echlin books with no useful hits. I would make the continuity test above, then carefully check out paths across all contacts against a known Ford. If it seems Ford...99% of those will be the standard amp level '40-55 type.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Those 3 are Willys and two Chrysler...I think they will have nonford grounding. Check the grounding continuity! Those numbers don't have reversible polarity.

[Rowdy]

The Mobil part numbers are pretty obscure, they only took up about 2" of one colum on the second to the last page in the book. There are 6 colums per page so they were easy to miss the first time through the book. Rod

[solidaxle]

On the instructions, it says.

TO POLARIZE GENERATOR: With engine off, connect a short jumper lead to regulator "Arm or Gen". Terminal, FIRST.
Then, momentarily touch other end to regulator "Bat". Terminal.

This seems to coincide with a Ford Vr, with the exception of removing the wire from the Arm terminal and flashing it to the Batt., instead of a jumper. Not sure how a GM one is polarized.

[Bluebell]

Generally speaking, polarizing is achieved by the following:
If the generator case is the earth, then all you have to do is earth the case (to the battery post that will be the earth post) and form a momentary circuit(more than once is good) by applying power to the field coils (usually the small wire or terminal of the two) What you are doing is setting the polarity of the iron magnets inside those field windings. This should be done every time before a generator is installed.
If it's wrong, when you turn the key off, the regulator contacts stay shut, the battery feeds the generator, the generator tries to "motor"(run), and because the fan belt is holding the pulley, the generator and regulator burn out.

[solidaxle]

Originally Posted by Bluebell

Generally speaking, polarizing is achieved by the following:
If the generator case is the earth, then all you have to do is earth the case (to the battery post that will be the earth post) and form a momentary circuit(more than once is good) by applying power to the field coils (usually the small wire or terminal of the two) What you are doing is setting the polarity of the iron magnets inside those field windings. This should be done every time before a generator is installed.
If it's wrong, when you turn the key off, the regulator contacts stay shut, the battery feeds the generator, the generator tries to "motor"(run), and because the fan belt is holding the pulley, the generator and regulator burn out.

I agree with your statement.
My reason to quote the instructions to polarize was to determine if it's a Ford VR or a GM VR.

[FLA48]

I have one on my 48. Works good.

[Bluebell]

Hi Solid axle. Not trying to slight you in any way. Just trying help those who don't know, with a few basics, that I know about. Cheers.

[solidaxle]

Originally Posted by Bluebell

Hi Solid axle. Not trying to slight you in any way. Just trying help those who don't know, with a few basics, that I know about. Cheers.

No offense taken. I thought perhaps you didn't understand my reason to list the polarization instructions.
FLA48 says he has one working on his car. I'll give it a try.
I have a big to do list this weekend, to make it to Guptiles car show Monday.
Thanks for all the responses.

[Tony, NY]

Originally Posted by solidaxle

No offense taken. I thought perhaps you didn't understand my reason to list the polarization instructions.
FLA48 says he has one working on his car. I'll give it a try.
I have a big to do list this weekend, to make it to Guptiles car show Monday.
Thanks for all the responses.

What will you be driving? I might be there too (Guptuls). I will driving my OT car, since my A coupe project is still ongoing.

[solidaxle]

Originally Posted by Tony, NY

What will you be driving? I might be there too (Guptuls). I will driving my OT car, since my A coupe project is still ongoing.

32 roadster, without the fenders.

[Bruce Lancaster]

I do believe the instructions you posted for the polarization are Delco style. For a Ford you remove F from reg and touch to B...check the ground path through regulator, as in post 2.
I believe that will show the difference between Ford and the common Delco circuit.
The reversible polarity feature sort of points to Ford, but I believe the actual ground path will tell you. The instructions you posted are NOT the correct ones for '39-62 Fords.