41 Ford engine help

[Trailerparkhardware]

I installed the pump but found that it had pipe threaded fittings coming out of the fuel pump and they leak. NAPA was out of flared fittings so I am waiting them to come in to finish installing the pump. When I had the pump installed and running for the second before I saw the fuel leaking I noticed that Pipe the spark plug wires run through was arcing to the block. The wires are very brittle and cracking so new wires have been ordered. Good news the spark form the plug wire tube to the block was a strong blue spark. Moving forward.

[super flat]

Please change the oil now if you did not! fuel in the crankcase is death to bearings.

[tubman]

I don't know about a '41, but I think I should give you a "head's up" anyway. Most Fords used unique fittings on the gas line, not regular flared fittings. They used special compression fittings secured by something called a "Ford nut". While standard compression fittings used a female nut to compress over the sleeve, "Ford nuts" are male. If the flared fittings won't work for you, I think you are in for a lesson in unique Ford tube fittings. I know I got one when I first did the fuel pump on my '51. "Ford nuts" are not easy to find. Luckily for me, some fine gentleman on here had some and sent them gratis.

[Mart]

Napa should have the ford nuts.

[tubman]

You might be right "Mart". Mine didn't when I needed them back then. The last time, what I couldn't find was the fitting that screws into the 1/4" pipe thread that accepts the "Ford nut". I ended up using a fitting that accepted a regular female flare nut.

[Trailerparkhardware]

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Originally Posted by super flat

Please change the oil now if you did not! fuel in the crankcase is death to bearings.

As soon as I found the fuel in the oil I first pulled the pump and second changed the oil. Thanks for looking out.

[Trailerparkhardware]

Originally Posted by tubman

I don't know about a '41, but I think I should give you a "head's up" anyway. Most Fords used unique fittings on the gas line, not regular flared fittings. They used special compression fittings secured by something called a "Ford nut". While standard compression fittings used a female nut to compress over the sleeve, "Ford nuts" are male. If the flared fittings won't work for you, I think you are in for a lesson in unique Ford tube fittings. I know I got one when I first did the fuel pump on my '51. "Ford nuts" are not easy to find. Luckily for me, some fine gentleman on here had some and sent them gratis.

Thank you for the heads up.

[Ol' Ron]

Have you done a compression check of the cylinders yet??

[Trailerparkhardware]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Have you done a compression check of the cylinders yet??

YES I was able to complete a compression test today. All cylinders are about 80lbs.. This seems very low. What should it be?

[JSeery]

How did you run the test? Throttle blocked all the way open and enough revolutions to get a good reading? Did you squirt a little oil in each cylinder and check them again?

[Trailerparkhardware]

Originally Posted by JSeery

How did you run the test? Throttle blocked all the way open and enough revolutions to get a good reading? Did you squirt a little oil in each cylinder and check them again?

I pulled all the plugs. I did not open the throttle all the way or put oil in the cylinders. I cranked it 5 times to get the reading. I will do it again tomorrow adding a squirt of oil in each cylinder. Does the throttle need to b opened all the way?

[Mart]

Yeah, wide open.

[Ol' Ron]

Yes,WOT for the test. However, at 80'bs the engine should start and run quite well, if everything is working correctly.

[JSeery]

Be sure to check it dry and with the oil in the cylinders. You are wanting to see the difference between the two.

[tubman]

As to the 80 lbs compression, I drove my '51 with an engine with compression between 75 and 90 lbs for 30 years with no problems. It was refreshing to finally get a good engine installed, though.

[Trailerparkhardware]

I did the compression test. With the throttle wide open dry I got 80 in every cylinder. I then put oil in each cylinder throttle wide open and only 2 cylinders increased to 100 the rest stayed at 80. I have installed new plugs and wires. A new fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Now when giving it throttle it will start to rev up but once it reaches 1/4 throttle it falls on its face and starts to miss. All the way fom 1/4 to full throttle there is no change in engine speed it just sounds like it wants to rev but it just keeps missing and holds there. I am guessing it is time to move on to the timing?

[rotorwrench]

The condenser in the ignition system is a key component to getting a good spark from the coil. If it doesn't work like it should the spark will be weak or be non existent and the points sets will suffer from arcing damage. It's generally easy to change and should be one of the first steps in troubleshooting the ignition system. Always do the easy things first in troubleshooting.

Timing of the distributor is fixed for outer body but spark timing can be adjusted internally if following the Ford instructions. The 41 was the last year for the divers helmet type distributor. If it starts and idle smoothly then it's likely not too far out of internal time. The points may be in rough shape if the condenser is bad. The centrifugal advance assembly may need lubrication to insure it moves correctly. The vacuum brake piston might be sticky in its bore or the leather tip may be deteriorated that allows the braking action. Cars that have been sitting a long time usually need a good inspection and lube the moving parts. If the points sets are still good and everything is still working correctly, your problem is likely somewhere else.

Sticking valves are a real problem on engines that set too long. I've had to pull the heads & intake to "work them" and get them to completely free up. Sometimes they will just have enough bind to let the engine idle but with any greater rpm, they don't have time to close all the way. A person can pull the intake and watch each valve move but you cant see if they stick unless you move each one by itself and see if it will stick on you. I've had to pull the springs and pull the valve & clean the guide & stem to get them to completely free up. Marvel Mystery Oil dropped down the carb and added to the fuel will free them up if the car is running but it may take some time.

The 94 carbs are simple but like any carb, all the passages have to be cleaned and checked to see if they are open. The surfaces have to be checked for warpage & corrected if they are. Your idle circuit seems to be open or it wouldn't idle at all. The accelerator circuit has to be clear and checked to see it squirt. The modern power valves don't fit the old castings very well but can be made to fit. This can be a sealing problem in that circuit. The high speed circuit through the jets and all the way to the venturis has to be clear and the atomizing air circuit has to be clear. If all this is checked and the carb is properly assembled then it will work.

[big job]

Originally Posted by Trailerparkhardware

I did the compression test. With the throttle wide open dry I got 80 in every cylinder. I then put oil in each cylinder throttle wide open and only 2 cylinders increased to 100 the rest stayed at 80. I have installed new plugs and wires. A new fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Now when giving it throttle it will start to rev up but once it reaches 1/4 throttle it falls on its face and starts to miss. All the way fom 1/4 to full throttle there is no change in engine speed it just sounds like it wants to rev but it just keeps missing and holds there. I am guessing it is time to move on to the timing?

curious; when you give it full throttle and its dying. give it that 1/4 throttle
put your hand over the carb is it sucking good -it should, it should whip right
up if not carb gasket intake gasket possibly , points closed up or the modern new junk condensers which will throw your brain code bonkers. The missing
part, sounds like as compression rises plugs wires cap rotor points condenser
is maxed out; gotta look at that.

[Trailerparkhardware]

Final update for now. I changed the coil to an external coil and what a difference. Right from the first start up it started quicker almost on the first crank. The throttle response is good and even the idle is better. I took it for a drive and it seems to have good power and went through all the gears without trouble. Thank you everyone for your input, and patience with me. You were all a big help.
Thomas

[JayChicago]

Originally Posted by Trailerparkhardware

I changed the coil to an external coil and what a difference.
Thomas

Thanks for posting your follow-up. That's really helpful for newbies like me.

But before I assume your symptoms were due to a bad coil, I have to ask:
Did you replace the condenser at this time?
If you re-used the existing condenser, any sign that it had been loose or not grounded?