Running Board Problems 31 Dlx Roadster

[Dollar Bill]

This thread may interest anyone considering buying new running boards.

Now I've come to expect fitment issues with repo parts but of the 9 bolt holes to attach the boards to the car - Narry a one will line up! I don't mind filing the fender bolt holes but the sheet metal brackets that are spot welded to the bottom of the RB have me stumped. The pointy headed carriage head bolts fall in the center of the access hole where you insert the CHB and slide it into the square slot to capture the bolt. Obviously this problem is caused by the difference in the set back of the brackets as shown in the below photo. The new ones are tight against the outside edge where the old ones sit back 3/8-1/2 an inch.



The frame-to-RB support brackets appear to be original as they are riveted on and show the proper amount of pitting. The support brackets have only the four holes (2 in each bracket) and are spaced correctly. The old boards fit perfectly so my question is; which RB bottom bracket is spaced correctly - The old set or the new ones?

I do appreciate any insight you have to offer.

[rob63mess]

Sorry...can't give you any insight....but I can tell you that I experienced much of the same problems with the new boards on my 30 standard roadster...I had to grind the heads of the carriage bolts to make the work.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

First off, I am not sure whose boards those are but they are NOT from the two best mfgs. as evidenced by the reinforcing rib.

[Kevin in NJ]

FWIW, you can check the running board brackets on the car for proper position.

Using a long straight edge-
Front side to side the front and rear bracket center lines should match up.

The top of the bracket should be parallel with the top of the frame.

The should be spaced correct for an original running board to drop in place.

In effect, they are self alinging if you have a nice long striaght edge. I bought an 8 foot one at Lowes for less then $15.

[ericr]

Yes I do believe there are better-quality running boards out there that fit better and until recently parts catalogs noted the delineation. The better-quality repros that I ordered have a more original-looking support bracket under them which is a bulbous shape, whereas yours are an angular shape. Whether the current catalog listings all went to the better design alone, I can't tell you. The repro boards I bought do in fact drop fairly easily into the bracket holes. Sometimes fit issues are also tied into the repro running board splash aprons, which are not as well-formed as originals.

[Dollar Bill]

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Thanks guys for the replies. Here's a little more information......

In my original post; the old running board that fit properly is the top, black one. The one that I'm having problems with is the bottom or unpainted RB.

Here's a top side view of the new RB - Everything lines up but the bolt holes for the brackets which I suspect is due to where the new sheet metal attaching brackets are attached.




Perhaps my question got lost in my rambling attempt to explain the problem.

Are the bottom brackets located correctly on the black running board or the unpainted running board?

[Dollar Bill]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

First off, I am not sure whose boards those are but they are NOT from the two best mfgs. as evidenced by the reinforcing rib.

Yes, they are quite flimsy which is one of the reasons for replacing them. They actually puddle water when it rains.

[Dollar Bill]

Btt

[Big hammer]

It looks like the running board needs to move in towards the apron.
If all bolts are still loose push it towards the apron. The key hole slot
in the running board is for installing cone head shaped bolt and sum
adjustment like where you bolt RB and fenders. I have used long nosed
vise grip pliers to hold cone shaped bolt from turning when it's to close
to the rounded hole of the key hole. Hope this helps can be a real pain

[Big hammer]

And DONT use a big hammer the trim can be easily damaged !
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[Dollar Bill]

Thanks for the assist BH. If I moved the RB inward, the trim would be inset from the front and rear fenders and it would be jammed onto the apron.