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Old 12-07-2016, 08:09 PM   #281
Hot Rod Reverend
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog





Don't want you all to think I've been lazy!
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Old 12-07-2016, 08:17 PM   #282
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Fellas, thanks for those posts on the paint booth ideas. I obviously went with a PVC frame up and 5 mil plastic. A box fan to bring air in and a box fan to exhaust the air. The "air replacement" and fume containment was excellent... until the exhaust fan filter clogged up - then it was a blow out as the overspray found its way out every nook and cranny under the plastic.
The paint is an Eastwood SSU color called Pinup Red. The gun I used was a Devilbiss FLG670, with a twin stage 5 HP compressor that has plenty of flow with those High Flow fittings. CFM was not a problem. As a matter of fact, the overspray seemed to be quite a bit much when compared to my cheapie HVLP guns I have. The flow, atomization, and ultimately the finish of what I sprayed was excellent. I am very happy with it, but I am confused at all of the overspray. My Devilbiss gauge showed 23 psi at the gun, and I had the nice cigar shape spray test pattern from the gun. The tip is a 1.5, and the material knob on the gun was wide open. The paint was mixed according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Any ideas or is it just something I need to live with and just replace filters more often?
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:35 PM   #283
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

the tip might be a little large I use a 1.4 for single stage you may notice more overspray due to the color red seems to go everywhere you can cut back on the material knob also will help with overspray as you will not be putting out as much material looks great all the prep has paid off keep it up
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:44 PM   #284
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Looks very good, and brings back memories of our red and white 55 Crown Vic.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:28 AM   #285
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Thanks fellas. I think next time I will test it out and dial back the PSI at the gauge too. Devilbiss says to go 23 psi but that seems too much for my paint, and from some video reviews I have seen there are guys that are shooting base/ss with gauge only showing 15-17 psi. On those videos there is little to no overspray, even with red. That is with a 1.5 tip as well.

Just going to have to experiment I reckon.

what gun(s) do you guys use in your work?
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Old 12-09-2016, 06:03 PM   #286
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I have been using a Harbor Freight gun that has worked pretty well on some tractor refresh projects. They spray pretty good. I dont like the plastic screw on lids. They are hard to clean up.
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:59 PM   #287
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Rev,I use a Devillbiss PLUS RP gun.35 PSI sprays clear slick!
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Old 12-10-2016, 08:40 PM   #288
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

I also use a devillbis mine is a finish line i'm spraying trucks so i'm using 35-40 pounds for my smaller projects i'm at 15-20 lbs I use the harbor freight for my primers although I have done overalls with good results
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Old 12-17-2016, 05:13 PM   #289
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Sprayed the final parts that needed to be red in color - the body + doors still need red of course.





The "paint booth" really worked well but it did not see that much in overspray. I used a HF detail gun -



It has a .6 tip, and the SSU was mixed 3:1 with a splash of reducer. I turned the PSI down to 22 or so and the paint atomized nicely and flowed well out of the gun. The gun did not leak at all or have any issues - the gun parts are a little difficult to clean but they came out nice with Urethane Reducer used as a solvent to remove the residue. I think I will end up painting the door jams and the hood channel with this gun.

One more shot of the fender in better light....



And I had some clear coat delivered just today. The plan is to take on the panels and parts with 800 grit paper before clear coating with a 1.3 tip. Any suggestions on clear coat let me know.

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Old 12-17-2016, 05:33 PM   #290
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Rev,
Looking awesome! I may look for one of those detail guns for next project.
The fender looks awesome!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:09 PM   #291
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

those detail guns are great for jambs and small projects dashes steering wheels ect. as for cleaning go to the home center an get lacquer thinner cheaper then urethane reducer prepping for the clear use a finer paper 1500/2000 the 800 grit scratches will be magnified by the clear when I do my panel blends I use a gray scuff pad and scuffing paste can I ask why you are using a clear over the ssu if gloss is an issue sand it with the mentioned sandpaper and compound if you have enough material on the parts to do so if not have at the clear keep up the good work
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Old 12-17-2016, 10:37 PM   #292
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

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those detail guns are great for jambs and small projects dashes steering wheels ect. as for cleaning go to the home center an get lacquer thinner cheaper then urethane reducer prepping for the clear use a finer paper 1500/2000 the 800 grit scratches will be magnified by the clear when I do my panel blends I use a gray scuff pad and scuffing paste can I ask why you are using a clear over the ssu if gloss is an issue sand it with the mentioned sandpaper and compound if you have enough material on the parts to do so if not have at the clear keep up the good work
At church a couple weeks ago an elderly man that had retired from GM, built 15 cars in his home shop (complete with a separate professional paint booth), talked me in to using the clear since the car would be out in the weather so much and the shine could be kept easier than if I used SSU. I guess the further waxing and polishing would come into play more often than if I used clearcoat. We will see how it goes, so far so good on this project. The paint is turning out so nice, I think I would like to do this stuff more often

Thanks for the tip on the clear. I have heard conflicting advice on what to use for grit right before shooting clear. Some guys have said they have too much trouble getting the clear to "stick" if the base is too smooth? Not sure on that since most of the time clear is shot on an unsanded base right?
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:08 PM   #293
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that is true if you are using a base coat clear coat system it relays on a chemical bond but as I said I set my blends up with a 1500/2000 scuff for color then clear, the ssu is much better then the acrylic enamels that would dye back and turn chalky I have used a lot of ssu on the trucks I have painted both metallic and solid colors they have held up great if you like to experiment prep and paint sand and polish a scrap peice and finish one with the paint/ clear and see what you like I suggest this before you go further you may be surprised at how much work you wont need to do.as far as the clear not sticking these paints of today get much harder and rely on a chemical bond that's why you need to sand to give it a tooth. as long as you are enjoying it and learning from it and when its all said and done and that first person asks "who painted it" and you answer me and look at their expression its all worth it.
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:53 PM   #294
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

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as for cleaning go to the home center an get lacquer thinner cheaper then urethane reducer
I second that motion, but I'm all about taking the cheaper way out.
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:13 PM   #295
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I am very happy with it, but I am confused at all of the overspray. the material knob on the gun was wide open. Any ideas or is it just something I need to live with and just replace filters more often?
I believe you can cut down on some of that overspray by adjusting the material knob. It's a little frustrating, because you need to have a test panel setup and experiment with the adjustment to get the best results and in doing so, you waste valuable $$$ material.

I sorta cheated a little bit recently when I was restoring a set of '55 front seat frame/springs. Since it's not something that you will ever see because it all gets covered up with upholstery, I adjusted while I was spraying the frames/springs. I did get the results I liked, but that doesn't mean that my final setting is good for the next time, because the paint will probably be different then and require a little re-adjustment.
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:31 PM   #296
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

You are doing really great work and you have professional equipment backing you up which I think would give me greater confidence.
I have always gotten by with a home-made setup consisting of an old Campbell-Housfeld power pal air compressor hard piped to an old stand-alone air tank with a guage and regulator piped in at the output. The Power pal size is unknown, but I think it is less than 1 HP, however, it will maintain above 40PSI in the tank while spraying as long as the pressure doesn't overcome my filter.
I recently had to remove my old inline filter which I had connected at the input of my spray gun because it leaked air from 40psi and above. I installed a new Fornay "tee" type air filter back at the air tank in place of it.
I have an old no-name brand spray gun that was new in the mid '70's. For the type of acrylic enamel I am using, you need 40-45 PSI at the gun to get good results.
Moral of the story is, I think anyone can do this if you are persistent, well organized and dedicated to finishing the project, regardless of the junk you have to work with.
God gives us those characteristics at birth and all we gotta do is use em. When it's done, the glory goes to Him.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:12 AM   #297
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Dave you could benefit from a harbor freight cheapie you can spray your acrylic enamel at lower pressure thus less overspray your gun needs the air pressure because it works on the suction method cup under gun whereas h/f is gravity feed cup on top and you are correct adjusting the material and air pressure knobs will also cut down on overspray the rev is doing a great job these are the kind of cars I'm drawn to at shows not the "catalog show cars" with owners saying how much money they have spent because they didn't do any of the work them self
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:55 AM   #298
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Check out this clear coat! pretty happy with first time results - these have not been sanded or buffed yet. I do have some small places to take care of but they won't show up on camera.



It is Tamco brand clear coat, HC 2100 euro. Very easy to shoot and lays out very nicely.

The weird thing is that my mom and dad are in town and his 2014 Ford Truck has what looks to be a very close, or even spot on, color match to what I am spraying lol. I am using an Eastwood SSU called Pinup Red for color in this two tone job. Crazy. I guess I never realized it, but the Ford truck has more orange peel than my paint job on these headlight hoods. I hear people talk about factory orange peel but never considered it. Crazier.



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Old 12-23-2016, 05:28 PM   #299
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Looks like Ford Vermillion. Might be Race Red but that's a real eye popper. I have a Vermillion truck and like the color. Nice job your doing.
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Old 12-24-2016, 04:29 PM   #300
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

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Dave you could benefit from a harbor freight cheapie
My spray gun is the high pressure suction type and I am in the process of replacing my inner rocker panels, inner rear quarters and portions of the outer rockers and rear quarters where it is going to be very difficult to get the gun and my hand fitted between the frame and rocker to shoot.
I've got the whole car lifted up about a foot more.
I want to use the same Chroma-base metallic blue which is the base color of the car, so I will need to use some sort of gun for the color coat. I have aerosol spray cans of the clear-coat so I am not worried about that.
What scares me about the gravity guns is that I fear there will be even less space for the gun as the can sits on top of the gun. I will need to go look at some.
All the welding is finished on the passenger side and all the pieces are cut and bent for the driver side. I did not buy repro panels for the project. Everything is cut and bent in my garage using jigsaw and various crude bending tools along with my workbench vice.
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