Model A sea trials

[Byron1930]

Hi guys quick question
My new model A is in the process of getting ready for rego.
So I’m going over everything with a fine tooth comb, two reasons I don’t like walking and I like exploring.
Anyway I was checking out my lights and how they work (engine was not running but key on). For some reason my lights went out. So I start to look for a fuse. I couldn’t find one under the dash or behind the instrument panel. So I check all my globes in the process I drop one of my Tail light lenses. “Smash” that was the sound of my heart breaking as I was sweeping up the broken Glass off my shed floor.
So I discover my fuse is on my starter motor I replace it and I have lights again and she starts and runs.
I play with the lights a bit longer and my gauge light at the same time and she dies and blows another fuse.
I replace the fuse and play with the lights and its fine.
When I got the car the horn was not working.
It has an Alternator and runs a + ground. When I press the horn button the amp meter moves but there is no beautiful sound coming out the front.
Could this be that the horn windings are still in 6 volt configuration or could there be something else that is the problem? I thought is asking before I destroy my horn like my tail lights.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

[JackA]

there is no fuse, unless the previous owner added one. It would be at the starter switch.

[Byron1930]

Yes the fuse is on the starter motor in the engine Bay.

[johnbuckley]

try altering the adjuster nut visible within the trumpet of the horn- if too tight it will stop the horn motor turning, ( if too loose you'll hear the motor turn but no Ooh Argh sound). PS if you're Bryon In Adelaide, Hello, and give my regards to all at MAFCSA ( toured Aus in the yellow phaeton 2006 and 2008).

[Ed Saniewski]

Hi Byron, what size fuse are you using on the top of the starter? The fuse should not be blowing that much. When you say you have the key on, is the coil getting warm? If you leave the key off dose the fuse blow? I am assuming by your question about the horn being 6 volt that the rest of the car is 12 volt, are all the lamps 12 or old 6 volt?

[Byron1930]

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Sorry John I'm in Darwin NT

[Byron1930]

Ed the fuse blew the second time with the engine running. As for what voltage the lamps are I have no idea. When I pulled out one of the globes to check one I couldn't see any markings on it.
The fuse on the starter is a 20 amp

[rocket1]

When the amp meter shows discharge when the horn button is pushed and the horn makes no sound the problem is with the horn.I would take the cover off lube the bearings,check the brushes and try the adjustment screw.because it has a alternator doesn't mean it's 12volt,what battery do you have in the car?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by johnbuckley

try altering the adjuster nut visible within the trumpet of the horn- if too tight it will stop the horn motor turning, ( if too loose you'll hear the motor turn but no Ooh Argh sound). PS if you're Bryon In Adelaide, Hello, and give my regards to all at MAFCSA ( toured Aus in the yellow phaeton 2006 and 2008).

John,
If you have to adjust the horn through the trumpet, then you have an aftermarket horn. JC Whitney sold a lot of these and one was also on my 29 Tudor when I bought the car.

On the rear horn cover of an original horn you will see "ADJUST" stamped next to the adjustment screw. Try turning the screw counter clockwise a little to see if the horn will start working.

From your first post I got the idea the fuse was burning out due to a short in the wire going to the instrument light. It sounds like you have a car built after mid 1930 (round speedometer), so you have the instrument light wire running under the edge of the instrument panel. Sometimes this small armoured wire gets pinched by the instrument panel and shorts out. There is a small notch in the panel for the wire to run through.

[jhowes]

It seems to me that you have to start at the beginning and determine what voltage you are using. As stated an altenator can be 6 or 12 volts. Determine which it is. Next, clean and adjust the horn, find a local A guy to go over the car with you. We all like doing that, its fun and enjoyable. Good luck wih it and enfoy driving

[huddy]

6V bulbs on a 12V system might blow a fuse, as they'll draw twice the current they are designed to handle. In this case, if you increase the fuse size so it doesn't blow, you'll probably burn out the bulbs. Also if you can read across your horn terminals with an ohmmeter (horn disconnected from rest of car) you should see a low resistance - if you see an open circuit, the horn may have open windings.

[Richard Wilson]

20 amp safety fuse is not heavy enough. Use a 30 amp fuse like the safety fuse holder was designed for.

[johnbuckley]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

John,
If you have to adjust the horn through the trumpet, then you have an aftermarket horn. On the rear horn cover of an original horn you will see "ADJUST" stamped next to the adjustment screw. Try turning the screw counter clockwise a little to see if the horn will start working.

Yeah, Tom you're absolutely right there ( as usual!, don';t know what we'd do without you!)

[Byron1930]

Thank you so much Gents. I will go out and pull the horn appart shortly.
I feel a bit silly right now because there is a sticker on the battery that says 6V.
I assumed if it had an alternator it would be 12V. Haha so much to learn.
Ill let you know if I can get it going.
Have a safe easter.

[Byron1930]

I managed to get some noise out of the Horn. I pulled the back cover off and adjusted the back screw until the motor was engaging bit of spray lube so it was spinning freely. It looks as though my horns diaphragm is stuffed so I’ll get a new one I think and go from there. Thanks for the useful advice.

[Brentwood Bob]

If you replace the diaphram, put a dab of grease on the nub. The armature needs to turn freely with no tension.