The Ford Barn

flybob08 · 09-11-2021, 01:44 PM

I have measured the steering arm balls on my 28 Roadster pickup - not sure if they should be replaced

left side - tie rod ball - .9305 left /right and .9715 fore and aft; Drag link ball - .9735 fore and aft; .9720 right /left; midway between those two .9600.

Right side - .9700 on one side and .9315 on the other

What is the thought on this?

Thanks

wrndln · 09-11-2021, 02:32 PM

They should be replaced if they are somewhat egg shaped. Most suppliers like Bert's and Bratton's will get them reballed. I think A&L Specialties actually does the work. I had A&L do several sets for my 4 model A's several years ago. A&L only sells wholesale to suppliers now. They do it right.
Rusty Nelson

Vic in E-TN · 09-11-2021, 03:51 PM

I have had several sets done by a guy in Georgia - Col. Wiley Higgins. He has done thousands over the decades. I hope he is still alive. The last time I saw him was at Mike's Affordable in Georgia several years ago. The supposed replacement point is 0.950 in or less. They are not so expensive.
Vic

wrndln · 09-11-2021, 04:02 PM

I had Wiley Higgins do a pair of sectors and wasn't satisfied. They were probably strong enough, but being a fine point fellow, there was weld grinding on the bottom of the sectors, where he drilled a hole all the way through the sectors and pressed in the new ball with a shank on it and then welded it in on the bottom. The way A&L does them is to turn down the balls to a cylinder, then press on a hardened ball with an undersized hole in the center. They finish it up they weld (TIG, I would guess) the top of the ground down cylinder and the new ball. You can't tell the balls were ever replaced. You can't beat this technique for strength and looks.
Rusty Nelson

flybob08 · 09-11-2021, 04:24 PM

Attached are a few pictures of what I am looking at.

Thanks

Bob

updraught · 09-11-2021, 11:21 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Does anyone do the RHD ones?
A&L did previously if you sent them a RHD one, but they no longer accept them.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 09-12-2021, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by updraught

Does anyone do the RHD ones?
A&L did previously if you sent them a RHD one, but they no longer accept them.

I had someone recently tell me that A&L were/is no longer doing them. Can anyone confirm this?

We have done them in-house however our length of set-time just makes us unprofitable.

Patrick L. · 09-12-2021, 07:55 AM

I've always thought, heard, read that .020" was about the limit.

whirnot · 09-12-2021, 09:49 AM

A good weldor can reball these, it's not that hard. Balls are available from Berts. I did a set last winter and am planning another this winter.

old ugly · 09-12-2021, 09:54 AM

two ways of doing the ball replacement. (abbreviated)

1-cut the ball off level with the arm, drill the appropriate size hole through the steering arm, insert the new ball, swedge the end and weld it

2- if the shank on the ball is still good on an original. the ball itself is machined off leaving the round stud sticking from the arm, then just the ball is fitted and welded on.

My opinion, the second method of rebuild is the best as it retains the original casting at the arm.
so if i was going to send them out to have rebuilt i would check which way they are being done.
just an fyi

ou

flybob08 · 09-12-2021, 12:48 PM

How are the spindle / steering arms removed? I have taken the large nut off the end but it still will not move. Does the grease fitting need to come out?

chrs1961815 · 09-12-2021, 01:25 PM

You need to pull out the drag link plugs and springs to pop the assemblies out.

flybob08 · 09-12-2021, 01:39 PM

I have already disconnected the balls from the drag link/tie rod but still can’t get the steering arm/spindle arm to come out of the spindle. There is a ridge on the arm. Is there something that holds that groove in place that has to be pulled?

flybob08 · 09-12-2021, 04:15 PM

Never mind - just took more force to break decades of inertia

700rpm · 09-12-2021, 04:39 PM

There is a huge liability risk with replacing or repairing steering arm balls, and that is one reason why most local guys have stopped doing them.

chrs1961815 · 09-12-2021, 06:35 PM

The liability is really bad for the ones that are welded in. I don't like them because if the weld breaks on them you may be dead. It is easier to do it the A&L way. And safer.

katy · 09-13-2021, 12:34 PM

Quote:

decades of inertia

Good term, I like it, thanks.

09-11-2021, 01:44 PM	#1
flybob08 Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Posts: 76	Steering Arm Balls I have measured the steering arm balls on my 28 Roadster pickup - not sure if they should be replaced left side - tie rod ball - .9305 left /right and .9715 fore and aft; Drag link ball - .9735 fore and aft; .9720 right /left; midway between those two .9600. Right side - .9700 on one side and .9315 on the other What is the thought on this? Thanks Last edited by flybob08; 09-11-2021 at 02:00 PM.

09-11-2021, 02:32 PM	#2
wrndln Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeville, MN Posts: 5,159	Re: Steering Arm Balls They should be replaced if they are somewhat egg shaped. Most suppliers like Bert's and Bratton's will get them reballed. I think A&L Specialties actually does the work. I had A&L do several sets for my 4 model A's several years ago. A&L only sells wholesale to suppliers now. They do it right. Rusty Nelson

09-11-2021, 03:51 PM	#3
Vic in E-TN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 491	Re: Steering Arm Balls I have had several sets done by a guy in Georgia - Col. Wiley Higgins. He has done thousands over the decades. I hope he is still alive. The last time I saw him was at Mike's Affordable in Georgia several years ago. The supposed replacement point is 0.950 in or less. They are not so expensive. Vic

09-11-2021, 04:02 PM	#4
wrndln Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeville, MN Posts: 5,159	Re: Steering Arm Balls I had Wiley Higgins do a pair of sectors and wasn't satisfied. They were probably strong enough, but being a fine point fellow, there was weld grinding on the bottom of the sectors, where he drilled a hole all the way through the sectors and pressed in the new ball with a shank on it and then welded it in on the bottom. The way A&L does them is to turn down the balls to a cylinder, then press on a hardened ball with an undersized hole in the center. They finish it up they weld (TIG, I would guess) the top of the ground down cylinder and the new ball. You can't tell the balls were ever replaced. You can't beat this technique for strength and looks. Rusty Nelson

09-11-2021, 11:21 PM	#6
updraught Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Australia Posts: 1,969	Re: Steering Arm Balls Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Does anyone do the RHD ones? A&L did previously if you sent them a RHD one, but they no longer accept them.

09-12-2021, 07:55 AM	#8
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Steering Arm Balls I've always thought, heard, read that .020" was about the limit.

09-12-2021, 09:49 AM	#9
whirnot Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bend Or. Posts: 1,056	Re: Steering Arm Balls A good weldor can reball these, it's not that hard. Balls are available from Berts. I did a set last winter and am planning another this winter. __________________ Bill Worden 1929 Roadster 1929 Briggs Town Sedan 1930 Closed Cab pickup Smith Motor Compressor 1951 Ford F1 High Desert Model A's

09-12-2021, 09:54 AM	#10
old ugly Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2021 Location: alberta canada Posts: 585	Re: Steering Arm Balls two ways of doing the ball replacement. (abbreviated) 1-cut the ball off level with the arm, drill the appropriate size hole through the steering arm, insert the new ball, swedge the end and weld it 2- if the shank on the ball is still good on an original. the ball itself is machined off leaving the round stud sticking from the arm, then just the ball is fitted and welded on. My opinion, the second method of rebuild is the best as it retains the original casting at the arm. so if i was going to send them out to have rebuilt i would check which way they are being done. just an fyi ou

09-12-2021, 12:48 PM	#11
flybob08 Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Posts: 76	Re: Steering Arm Balls How are the spindle / steering arms removed? I have taken the large nut off the end but it still will not move. Does the grease fitting need to come out?

09-12-2021, 01:25 PM	#12
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Steering Arm Balls You need to pull out the drag link plugs and springs to pop the assemblies out. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

09-12-2021, 01:39 PM	#13
flybob08 Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Posts: 76	Re: Steering Arm Balls I have already disconnected the balls from the drag link/tie rod but still can’t get the steering arm/spindle arm to come out of the spindle. There is a ridge on the arm. Is there something that holds that groove in place that has to be pulled? Last edited by flybob08; 09-12-2021 at 01:44 PM.

09-12-2021, 04:15 PM	#14
flybob08 Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Posts: 76	Re: Steering Arm Balls Never mind - just took more force to break decades of inertia

09-12-2021, 04:39 PM	#15
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,902	Re: Steering Arm Balls There is a huge liability risk with replacing or repairing steering arm balls, and that is one reason why most local guys have stopped doing them. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. Last edited by 700rpm; 09-12-2021 at 09:52 PM.

09-12-2021, 06:35 PM	#16
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Steering Arm Balls The liability is really bad for the ones that are welded in. I don't like them because if the weld breaks on them you may be dead. It is easier to do it the A&L way. And safer. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."