The Ford Barn

1stford · 02-18-2018, 09:49 PM

I’m not currently winning the battle of me Vs 36 truck and wanted to get some feedback. Had some water seepage coming out between the head and block just above manifolds. I retoruqed the heads and started it up, with the radiator cap off. Checking the motor/heads with a heat gun it got to 210 before spewing antifreeze out the top of radiator everywhere. Thermostats did not open. I backed up and reset everything and ran it with cap on, it spewed and burped out through the overflow. Again, seems like no water flowing through thermostats?

49 8BA with factory 36 truck radiator.

Phil Gillespie · 02-18-2018, 09:53 PM

I see it has already been suggested in your other thread. To first try with both thermostats removed and make observations and record some temps.
Phil NZ

51 MERC-CT · 02-18-2018, 09:55 PM

Stop guessing and pull the thermostats to check for proper operation.

1stford · 02-18-2018, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Gillespie

I see it has already been suggested in your other thread. To first try with both thermostats removed and make observations and record some temps.
Phil NZ

Yeah, it was suggested that i put this post on a new thread.

michael a · 02-18-2018, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1stford

Yeah, it was suggested that i put this post on a new thread.

Drill a small hole in those stats about a nature 16th hole let the air out

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AnthonyG · 02-18-2018, 10:24 PM

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I have found the thermostats available today SUCK (probably all off shore). I find they have a nasty habit of sticking closed. The one on the passenger side on my '35 w an 8BA sticks when first started and almost every time I have to shut down before that side over heats and wack the thermostat housing with a heavy wooden handle a couple times to get it to release then start it again and it works, I run Moon dial Thermometers on each side so I see the temp on both. I have run with and without and IMO the only time you maybe need them is in the cold weather if your running a heater. I don't have my heater connected but am currently running thermostats as I went through a bunch of threads on the subject that at the time convinced me you needed the thermostats to slow the water down to give it a chance to cool better which I now believe is BS. I'll be removing mine before the spring season and won't be running any again unless I decide to run the heater, which I probably won't. Get rid of them

JSeery · 02-18-2018, 10:52 PM

You need the thermostats to get the engine up to operating temp as quickly as possible and to maintain a minimum engine temperature. The engine needs to run in the 180 to 185 range for effecency.

1stford · 02-18-2018, 11:03 PM

Anyone thinking bad head gaskets?

KGS · 02-19-2018, 08:08 AM

As others have suggested, pull the thermostats. Check the thermostats as you remove them to make sure they were not in upside down. I know it's a simple thing, but it has happened. Test them before re-installing. When you re-install, make sure they go in with the sensor unit down in the head.
K

SofaKing · 02-19-2018, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1stford

Anyone thinking bad head gaskets?

Yes, it's not supposed to seep as you mentioned in post 1. Get an infrared thermometer and take the temp of the cylinder head right after you start it up. The leaking combustion gas will cause a localized hot spot, find that and you know if/where the head gasket has failed. Also, you can verify if the thermostats are working by taking the temp of housing below and hose above, no disassembly required.

corvette8n · 02-19-2018, 08:45 AM

I remember my dad checking thermostats in a small pan of boiling water and a candy thermometer to see what temp they opened at.

donald1950 · 02-19-2018, 09:27 AM

drill a small hole 1/16 in each thermostat to vent the air trapped in the system,

test both the thermostats with a pan and water on a stove to make sure they open and open where you expect,

when running the vehicle in the driveway to test heat rise, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, place a big box fan in front of the radiator to move air across the radiator core as when the vehicle is just sitting the stock fan just wont move enough air to exchange heat and keep it from boiling over......

chap52 · 02-19-2018, 09:55 AM

I am concerned with the "seeping". Easy check as stated of the thermostats. Drill those holes and if they open at the proper temp. reinstall There should not be any seepage even if it's hot. If you get it running with the thermostats operating properly then you can try some Barrs stop leak and see if after a few miles the seeping stops. Remember that this is just a band aide and you will probably be replacing those head gaskets pretty soon.
There are ways to detect a leaking head gasket (check You Tube and search this site). But lets get it running correctly for now and then you can dig deeper later.
Please keep us posted,
Chap

02-18-2018, 09:49 PM	#1
1stford Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 274	Engine cooling issue I’m not currently winning the battle of me Vs 36 truck and wanted to get some feedback. Had some water seepage coming out between the head and block just above manifolds. I retoruqed the heads and started it up, with the radiator cap off. Checking the motor/heads with a heat gun it got to 210 before spewing antifreeze out the top of radiator everywhere. Thermostats did not open. I backed up and reset everything and ran it with cap on, it spewed and burped out through the overflow. Again, seems like no water flowing through thermostats? 49 8BA with factory 36 truck radiator.

02-18-2018, 09:53 PM	#2
Phil Gillespie Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Christchurch New Zealand Posts: 1,611	Re: Engine cooling issue I see it has already been suggested in your other thread. To first try with both thermostats removed and make observations and record some temps. Phil NZ

02-18-2018, 09:55 PM	#3
51 MERC-CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Hartford, Ct Posts: 5,898	Re: Engine cooling issue Stop guessing and pull the thermostats to check for proper operation. __________________ DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES

02-18-2018, 10:24 PM	#6
AnthonyG Senior Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Pa. Posts: 2,167	Re: Engine cooling issue Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have found the thermostats available today SUCK (probably all off shore). I find they have a nasty habit of sticking closed. The one on the passenger side on my '35 w an 8BA sticks when first started and almost every time I have to shut down before that side over heats and wack the thermostat housing with a heavy wooden handle a couple times to get it to release then start it again and it works, I run Moon dial Thermometers on each side so I see the temp on both. I have run with and without and IMO the only time you maybe need them is in the cold weather if your running a heater. I don't have my heater connected but am currently running thermostats as I went through a bunch of threads on the subject that at the time convinced me you needed the thermostats to slow the water down to give it a chance to cool better which I now believe is BS. I'll be removing mine before the spring season and won't be running any again unless I decide to run the heater, which I probably won't. Get rid of them __________________ Nomad

02-18-2018, 10:52 PM	#7
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Engine cooling issue You need the thermostats to get the engine up to operating temp as quickly as possible and to maintain a minimum engine temperature. The engine needs to run in the 180 to 185 range for effecency.

02-18-2018, 11:03 PM	#8
1stford Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 274	Re: Engine cooling issue Anyone thinking bad head gaskets?

02-19-2018, 08:08 AM	#9
KGS Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Schooley's Mountain Posts: 530	Re: Engine cooling issue As others have suggested, pull the thermostats. Check the thermostats as you remove them to make sure they were not in upside down. I know it's a simple thing, but it has happened. Test them before re-installing. When you re-install, make sure they go in with the sensor unit down in the head. K

02-19-2018, 08:45 AM	#11
corvette8n Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: 36 miles north of Albany NY Posts: 2,949	Re: Engine cooling issue I remember my dad checking thermostats in a small pan of boiling water and a candy thermometer to see what temp they opened at.

02-19-2018, 09:27 AM	#12
donald1950 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: san antonio, texas Posts: 461	Re: Engine cooling issue drill a small hole 1/16 in each thermostat to vent the air trapped in the system, test both the thermostats with a pan and water on a stove to make sure they open and open where you expect, when running the vehicle in the driveway to test heat rise, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, place a big box fan in front of the radiator to move air across the radiator core as when the vehicle is just sitting the stock fan just wont move enough air to exchange heat and keep it from boiling over......

02-19-2018, 09:55 AM	#13
chap52 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Marana Arizona Posts: 1,776	Re: Engine cooling issue I am concerned with the "seeping". Easy check as stated of the thermostats. Drill those holes and if they open at the proper temp. reinstall There should not be any seepage even if it's hot. If you get it running with the thermostats operating properly then you can try some Barrs stop leak and see if after a few miles the seeping stops. Remember that this is just a band aide and you will probably be replacing those head gaskets pretty soon. There are ways to detect a leaking head gasket (check You Tube and search this site). But lets get it running correctly for now and then you can dig deeper later. Please keep us posted, Chap