35 Ford Brake problems

[Asphalt Outlaw Hero]

OK, My confusion is in the fact that lugs appear to be part of drum.

The drums I've found (Speedway,MT) seem to require a different Hub ? Such as Speedway 910-65450.

[Terry,OH]

The replacement drum, above, is for the 40-41 style of brake. These drums have the hub flange inside the drum. The 46-48 style you have has the flange (flat plate)outside the drum. They do make a drum for your application. I suggest you contact MT Car Products. If you want to keep your hubs (and save some $) you will have to change the wheel studs. The studs hold the hub onto the old drum and are usually destroyed removing the old drum. MT has the studs and can instruct you on installing. Your also going to need the spacers for the wire rims, if you want to use them.
http://www.mtcarproducts.com/

[Asphalt Outlaw Hero]

Thanks! I sent them a note. They only show the early style drum.This has also cleared up some confusion in my very confused saga!

[JM 35 Sedan]

Something to consider when using the front brake drums with outer hub flange is the manufacturers placement of balance weights on the outside of the drum that may interfer with the back area on the Ford wire wheels. Not all of these drums have those balance weights, but on those that do, the weights may need to be removed and relocated, or the drum, hub, wheel and tire could be dynamically balanced together while on the vehicle. This is one reason why I prefer the early style drum with inner hub flange or the reproduction drums & hubs.

[Asphalt Outlaw Hero]

Food for thought! Thanks

[Charlie Stephens]

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The next thing you need to know is the year of the backing plates. Below is the 6 o'clock position on the backing plates. The pre war brakes adjust at the bottom and the post war brakes do not adjust at the bottom. You need to know this because many of the parts are different and the adjustment procedure is different. The drums/hubs interchange with both types of backing plates. You might look around for some used hub/drum assemblies that still can be turned. Changing the drums on the hubs requires a 20 ton press and someone that knows how to do the work.

[Rascal]

ok, heres a pic with the spacer installed, this is a 34 front end using the 42-48 spindles drums.

[Asphalt Outlaw Hero]

I may have found a set. Anyone know what the ID should be on these ?

Thanks!

[Mart]

12.000 inches.

Mart.

[Asphalt Outlaw Hero]

Thanks! Anyone know which years they stamped wear limits on them ?

[Mart]

I dunno, but I would like to make sure my brakes were beyond repair myself before replacing them on a mechanics say so. These ain't like changing discs on a focus, the parts are available, but getting them set up right can be a pain. Often you're better off just working with what you have. Just exactly how bad are the ones you have now? How often/hard/fast/far do you want to drive? You could put all new stuff on there and never drive it far or often you might never even bed the new stuff in.

Because I don't know the answers to the questions on usage, it is hard to say whether replacing is the best option, I'm just trying to point out that it is not always the best way in all cases.

Mart.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Asphalt Outlaw Hero

Thanks! Anyone know which years they stamped wear limits on them ?

I have never seen a wear limit stamped on an original Ford drum through 1948.

Charlie Stephens

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Asphalt Outlaw Hero

I may have found a set. Anyone know what the ID should be on these ?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Asphalt Outlaw Hero

Thanks! Anyone know which years they stamped wear limits on them ?

Like Charlie Stephens said above, the wear limits are NOT stamped on these ORIGINAL Ford drums, BUT.....NEW drums measure 12.000", and the maximum LEGAL turning limit is 12.060".

IF your buddy's brake shop is, in fact, a "qualified" brake-service provider, their shop should possess at least one device which is capable of accurately measuring the diameter of your current drums. They should be able to tell you (within .001") the diameter of the drums which they deemed to be "shot". IF your drums measured less than 12.060" and they ARE round and reasonably smooth, they should be safe and usable, unless the brake shop can point-out OTHER issues (of which there COULD be several) that would deem them un-usable ("shot"). DD

[Asphalt Outlaw Hero]

Thanks for the reply's. I live on a steep hill (strike #1)
Brakes aren't too good and chatter (strike #2)
I like to drive my cars to meets. I have a strong sense of self preservation.
My friend runs a Midas shop. He's also a drag racer and won the nationals in the 60's. He'd go a little "beyond" if I asked him but he said they "won't go no more". Buttoned it back up for no charge.
If I can find some workable outer hub drums, it is a simple (relatively) fix. If not, it means changing out the hubs, drums and putting in some spacers. I'm compounding the problem because I want to keep the 35 wires on there too.
I've gotten a quick education on Ford brakes,thanks to a lot of folks on this forum. I've come across some used units but I want to make sure they're not "well used".

[George/Maine]

How bad is the surface of the drums.
If you don,t know the car replace the wheel cylinders and if shoes are worm less then half. Then just put your old drums back on.

[Asphalt Outlaw Hero]

Bad enough to where they are chattering and not slowing me down at a rate I'd like.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Asphalt Outlaw Hero

Thanks for the reply's. I live on a steep hill (strike #1)
Brakes aren't too good and chatter (strike #2)
I like to drive my cars to meets. I have a strong sense of self preservation.
My friend runs a Midas shop. He's also a drag racer and won the nationals in the 60's. He'd go a little "beyond" if I asked him but he said they "won't go no more". Buttoned it back up for no charge.
If I can find some workable outer hub drums, it is a simple (relatively) fix. If not, it means changing out the hubs, drums and putting in some spacers. I'm compounding the problem because I want to keep the 35 wires on there too.
I've gotten a quick education on Ford brakes,thanks to a lot of folks on this forum. I've come across some used units but I want to make sure they're not "well used".

I am not sure why you insist on the "outer hub drums"? The ones with the hubs work just as well (of course the hubs and drums must match as a unit). If the spacers you refer to are the ones to adapt the wire wheels to the hydraulic drums you need them on all hubs/drums from 1940 to 1948. If the spacers are for something else, what are they for?

Charlie Stephens

[Asphalt Outlaw Hero]

As I understand it, for earlier drums, I'll have to change hubs. I'll need the hubs, then a bearing spacer for the new hub. Regardless, I know I'll need the spacer that goes behind the wheel but IF I can find a decent set of drums, it is simpler than changing out hubs etc.
Hubs are roughly 140 apiece. Drums 125. Pretty soon you're up $600+.Also more to change out and sometimes "fit".
Trying to avoid reinventing the wheel so to speak.

[Fortunateson]

I've heard that oversize brake linings were sometimes used back in the day if the drum was a little sketchy. Legal or not? Appropriate or not?

[Mart]

You don't need a bearing spacer as your spindles are the correct ones for the hubs and brakes.

Mart.