timing gear cover

[hangarb7]

I have a knock in the engine and have been told to remove the timing gear cover first just to inspect and be sure the knock is not from there.

What is involved in doing this? A friend suggested that I need to loosen the engine mount and jack the engine to prevent it from dropping....

I need some hand holding on this project...

Thanks,
Jack

[Will N]

Your friend is right. The front motor mount (the Y shaped thingy) bolts to the timing cover. You have to remove the front motor mount to take the timing cover off, so you must support the front of the engine. I've used a wooden block and a jack. I don't feel you need to loosen the rear mounts. All you have to do is take the weight off the front mount, and you can lift the front an 1/8" without loosing the rears. You'll need to remove the generator too as that gets in the way of loosening the cover bolts, and it is attached to the cover as well. The trickiest thing is there are three (I think) oil pan bolts that screw up into the timing cover that have to be removed, and they can be a pain to remove sometime. I've used a 1/4" drive socket with a thin extension to get up into the tight spot where these bolts live. After that take the cam gear inspection cover off first, then the rest of the bolts on the timing cover.

[katy]

Oops.

[alexiskai]

If the only thing you're inspecting is the timing gear itself, you can do that by just removing the inspection cover. Removing the timing cover permits inspection of the crank gear and the cam plunger.

Remember you may also need to replace the gaskets on those parts when you reinstall them.

[Richard in Anaheim CA]

Before you go any further, remove your timing pin, turn it around and press it against the cam gear while idling slowly. If the knock goes away, the cam mounting nut is loose and you are in for a much bigger job.

If the knock does not go away, you only need to remove the small side cover on the right front of the engine. It is mounted with two oval head bolts, one bolt holding it to the pan from the bottom and three oval head bolts from the front timing gear holding the side cover in place. No need to mess with motor mounts or anything else.

Pop the side cover off and you are looking at the timing gear teeth. Turn the engine over with the crank and carefully examine the gear for missing or damaged teeth. Remember it takes two full turns of the engine to see one full revolution of the cam gear.

If you find no damage, reinstall the side cover and look elsewhere for the knock

[alexiskai]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Richard in Anaheim CA

Before you go any further, remove your timing pin, turn it around and press it against the cam gear while idling slowly. If the knock goes away, the cam mounting nut is loose and you are in for a much bigger job.

Couldn't that also be a loose plunger? I agree that this is the ideal next step though.

[john charlton]

My son had a nasty knock which did sound expensive . It was that the original Celeron timing wheel alloy centre was loose . The motor ran fine as the two parts were still keyed together, a new gear fixed the problem . Just remove the little side cover and see if the gear can be wiggled ahead and astern it will show you if the centre is "unbonded"

John in rainy afternoon Suffolk County England .

[Patrick L.]

As said, removing and inserting the timing pin while exerting pressure on it will help tell you if the problem is with the timing gears.
The condition of the cam gear can be looked at when removing the side cover.
To check the back lash requires removing the front cover. I've never removed the motor mount to change either gear. The lash should be in the .004-.006" range. More than .010" will make noise.
If the front cover is removed and the condition of the crank gear is bad, then you in for a real experience changing it. Its a royal PITA. Just changing the cam gear isn't a bad job.