Bead Roller help

[nb141fd]

This question is for any of you that have bead rolled patch panels for your A's. I am hoping to roll patch panels to replace small damaged bead areas that run along the sides of the trunk opening on my 30 coupe like the upper bead shown here:



can you tell me what die you used to roll the radiused edge on the body side? It looks like a round over die, not a step die but I am not sure. The idea was to use a die to roll the radius only, that way I could roll bead of different widths and possibly also fix the panel with the damaged semi-circle bead shown below:



I tried the HAMB but struck out. TIA, Tony

[Oldbluoval]

Well unfortunately as far as I know such roller dies have to be custom made for the desired contour. You probably could get someone set up like a Brent Terry to make you some patches a whole bunch cheaper and less effort that making a die. But there is angr at deal of fun and pride and doing it yourself.
Bead rollers general roll stuff out in a staight line. My first thoughts would be to shrink the radius to contour to the body curve. When you roll the bead (if in a straight line) there is more strength and resistance to the contouring. Just some random thoughts

[Kevin in NJ]

You do not need a bead roller. A small arbor press and some creativity will go a long way and do a better job. A bead roller can not get the right shape up close to a 90 degree edge.

Doing the panel just ahead of the rear wheel well is easy, you just need a hammer and a chunk of steel close to the right radius.

Go to my website linked below and see what I did. Feel free to ask questions and I can send you more pictures.

BTW, the key is to use new virgin cold rolled sheet metal 20 Gauge. A used piece is usually too hard, after working with virgin stuff I will avoid taking from roofs and hoods of cars.

[nb141fd]

Thanks for the advice gentlemen. Kevin I have a bead roller and shrinker/stretcher already and was hoping to produce these patch pieces without buying additional tools. I know somebody has to produce a die that can reproduce this radius. It has to be something like a 1/8" round-over or tank roll die but I was hoping to find someone that has done this before. Kevin great site with some excellent information thanks. If anyone else has some advice I'm open to it.

Tony

[Kevin in NJ]

I bought a bead roller and was going to make dies on my lathe for it.

I ran across this solution. The arbor press was $30 used from a local used machine tool place. The die I made from scrap I had laying around.

Truthfully, the arbor press will give a better result. After working with it I believe it to be a poormans Pullmax. The job you want is done at real shops on the Pullmax press with custom dies. A Pullmax press is an automated arbor press with a lot more force.

[Tinbasher]

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I've used a offset die with a close radius for this. If the die's too sharp then back off on your pressure. You should be able to make the part with the radius. You'll have to make the part in two or three pieces and put it together. A good site for metal works is MetalShapers.com. Worth a check out.

John Poole

[fordcragar]

What brand bead roller do you have? Do you have a lathe?

[Oldbluoval]

The bead rollers vary as to OC. There are roller dies on eBay but be sure you get the correct OC
Seems like pexto knock offs are 2" and many of the lessers are 1 3/4" OC.

Another thought if making your own is to use Delrin rather than metal if for limited use. Easier to work with, faster to make but not for production use

[nb141fd]

Thanks for the info gents. Tinbasher, are you talking about a tipping die? If so, can you give me some specifics on model or source? Fordcrager my bead roller is a entry level Woodward Fab and sorry I don't have a lathe. Oldblueoval and Kevin thanks for the advice.

Tony

[Tinbasher]

The offset die has a joggel in it. The two rollers fit together and you end up with a drop so you can mate another panel to it with a lap weld. My bead roller came from Eastwood and uses 2" dies.
Hope this helps.

John

[Tinbasher]

Another Idea is to make up a wood block with the shape in it you want and use a hammer and a flat chisel to work the metal into the wood block shape. If you want a good book on metal shaping. Look for Ron Fournier Metal Sharper's Handbook. I've used it for years and it's still the best info.

John Poole