Vintage Precision Hub Puller

[connecticut mike]

I expect that this post might p-off some Barners because of the extensive discussion of the subject on this site but I am very reluctant to hammer on the rear axle or on a puller. It seems to me that there must be some impact (pun intended) on the differential components from hammering on the end of the axle.

I have been using the cup-type puller but not hammering on it) with no success on either rear hub. I planned to buy a Mitchell puller, but the instructions for that puller call for hammering on the tool. There is a puller made by Vintage Precision that they claim is an improvement on the KR Wilson design. Their instructions do not call for hammering on the tool. Has anyone tried this puller, or the Mitchell, with good results?

Frustrated Mike

[mass A man]

Sorry I haven't tried that particular puller, but it's a good idea to use a quality tool, whenever possible. The problem seems to me, some guys don't get immediate results when hitting puller with a hammer, so they either get a "bigger hammer" or start swinging at the puller like Big Poppi hammering out a homer in Fenway Park. "HEAT" is the answer, right in the proper place and a firm tap should pop a stubborn hub loose.

[shew01]

I found this on eBay a while back. No hammering is required if you use a breaker bar.




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[Bruce of MN]

I am lucky enough to have two nearby friends to borrow a KRW style pulller from, but here is the tool I made from my brake adjusting board to keep the hub from spinning:

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

I am lucky enough to have two nearby friends to borrow a KRW style pulller from, but here is the tool I made from my brake adjusting board to keep the hub from spinning:

That’s a good idea.


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[Jack Shaft]

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Rear hub/axle is an interference fit, the hub cut angle is one degree different than the axle taper angle. This method of fastening parts done correctly can be very tight. A combination of tension and vibration is used to disassemble them, tension is the forcing screw applied load, and vibration is the impact applied load. Using just tension alone is is logical but not the best method, the combination of the two is best.. enough tension and a tap to vibrate it works, not enough tension and you have to increase the vibration.not good...take a load,knock it once,if it doesnt jump off increase the load..

[Jack Shaft]

BTW you can not go wrong with Vintage Precision ,high quality parts and tools made by model a people.. Their thermostat set up is the best one out there.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Jack Shaft

BTW you can not go wrong with Vintage Precision ,high quality parts and tools made by model a people.. Their thermostat set up is the best one out there.

Agree, but it's Fugly...

[Jack Shaft]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

Agree, but it's Fugly...

Function over form...its like a hooker, ugly ones work harder..

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Jack Shaft

BTW you can not go wrong with Vintage Precision ,high quality parts and tools made by model a people.. Their thermostat set up is the best one out there.

I bought one of those recently based on what I had read here. It is useless. Neither port will accept the probe for the temperature gauge. The big one is who knows what size and the small one is too small for my gauge so I bought another with a 1/8NPT fitting. That fell through the hole. The fitting is sitting on a shelf and I can't see I'll ever be able to use it.
While trying to get something happening, I found that the American NPT threads are not used anywhere else so why supply them with American threads? That is about $170 wasted.
The set up is so wonderful, I have to go back to the thermostat in the hose.
Buy one of their hub pullers? Not bleedin likely!

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I bought one of those recently based on what I had read here. It is useless. Neither port will accept the probe for the temperature gauge. The big one is who knows what size and the small one is too small for my gauge so I bought another with a 1/8NPT fitting. That fell through the hole. The fitting is sitting on a shelf and I can't see I'll ever be able to use it.
While trying to get something happening, I found that the American NPT threads are not used anywhere else so why supply them with American threads? That is about $170 wasted.
The set up is so wonderful, I have to go back to the thermostat in the hose.
Buy one of their hub pullers? Not bleedin likely!

Hmmm.... I bought one a while back, and the temperature probe fits fine. I’m very happy with my unit. I don’t know why yours would be so different from mine.


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[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by shew01

Hmmm.... I bought one a while back, and the temperature probe fits fine. I’m very happy with my unit. I don’t know why yours would be so different from mine.


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I don't know what gauge you are using but as I said, I tried two probes. One was too big, the other too small and it appears no adapters are available which would seem to me to be a sensible solution to the problem. The too big one was an APCO gauge, the too small was a Chinese electric unit.
Once bitten, twice shy!

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I don't know what gauge you are using but as I said, I tried two probes. One was too big, the other too small and it appears no adapters are available which would seem to me to be a sensible solution to the problem. The too big one was an APCO gauge, the too small was a Chinese electric unit.
Once bitten, twice shy!

I bought a Stewart Warner temperature gauge from Speedway Motors. It’s a bit pricey, but it works great. No regrets.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stewa...Inch,7150.html

Hmmm... Now that I think about it, I think I originally bought a cheap China-made temperature gauge that didn’t fit. However, like I said, the Stewart Warner gauge works great for me, and it looks period correct.

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[updraught]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I don't know what gauge you are using but as I said, I tried two probes. One was too big, the other too small and it appears no adapters are available which would seem to me to be a sensible solution to the problem. The too big one was an APCO gauge, the too small was a Chinese electric unit.
Once bitten, twice shy!

https://modelastore.com/gauges?product_id=4877
The APCO gauge fits these housings which are said to be 1/2 inch.
https://www.oneillvintageford.co.uk/...ter_Pipes.html

From the VP web site
"Typically, electric temperature gauges use 1/4" NPT senders and mechanical gauges use 1/2" NPT senders. The Vintage Precision Thermostat Housing has (1) 1/2" NPT port and (1) 1/4" NPT port. Because mechanical gauges that use the 1/2” NPT port have temp senders that occasionally run long, they can stick too far into the housing and interfere with the function of the thermostat. Available upon request, we can include a 1/2” NPT bushing ($5.00) that will offset your temp sender safely away from the thermostat."

[Hitman]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I bought one of those recently based on what I had read here. It is useless. Neither port will accept the probe for the temperature gauge. The big one is who knows what size and the small one is too small for my gauge so I bought another with a 1/8NPT fitting. That fell through the hole. The fitting is sitting on a shelf and I can't see I'll ever be able to use it.
While trying to get something happening, I found that the American NPT threads are not used anywhere else so why supply them with American threads? That is about $170 wasted.
The set up is so wonderful, I have to go back to the thermostat in the hose.
Buy one of their hub pullers? Not bleedin likely!

Those things are too ugly for my tastes. You can buy reproduction outlet necks with a threads for a temp sender cast right into them. They look correct and function perfectly.

[Tacoma Bob]

MMMM So I had a tough time getting a rear drum off a year or so ago. It was 8pm and I was getting tired Used a breaker bar and a similar set up like the break board. Went to bed. Woke up the next morning and the drum all but fell off in the night. All by it's lonesome.

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good Morning...I agree with Jack Shaft...The Vintage Percision Thermostat set up is great and I have been using it for over a year and all is well. It even looks factory...just the way that it goes on and has openings for heat gage connection...Ernie in Arizona

[dmar836]

I made a clam shell style for '40 hubs and it worked well on one side but not the other. I'm hoping I just had the most stuck taper ever.

[katy]

One option is to back the axle hut off about a 1/2 turn, re-install the cotter pin and drive around the block.

Another style that works good:

[wwirz]

Originally Posted by katy

One option is to back the axle hut off about a 1/2 turn, re-install the cotter pin and drive around the block.

Another style that works good:

This is the hub puller I used. Works like a charm.