59A fuel pump push rod

[36 ford]

The continuing saga of no fuel to the carbs. In another thread I posted an image of a modified push rod that measured 9" and made a loud knocking sound. (see images) I exchanged it for the 8.87" stock length rod thinking it would be the solution. No gas to the carbs. I also replaced the fuel pump with the glass bowl type that was on it. Since I have an edelbrock manifold I have been told I should have bought the shorter (7 7/8") rod. With the pump and stand removed I turned the motor over with my hand on the top of the rod just to see if there was any movement with the cam lobe spinning against the rod. Nothing, nada, zero.

What are your conclusions, please?

Thanks,

Phil

[30-9]

If it were me, I'd add electric fuel pump and make mech pump a pass thru.

See Vic's thread - what I did on my lunch hour

[51 MERC-CT]

Re-check the cam lobe movement by using a smaller dia. rod (any convenient length) to insure that the original rod was not hung up and something was preventing it from making contact with the cam lobe.
If no movement at that point then it's time for an electric pump.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

The push rod should go up and down .200 If yours is not moving the rod is not riding on the cam lobe or the lobe has wiped right out. Is the engine old or a new rebuilt? I have seen new rebuilt engines that some one installed new cam bearings and didn't line up the hole in the bearing. Walt

[flatjack9]

Could someone have cut off part of the bottom of the rod and the "umbrella" is resting on the casting?

[36 ford]

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Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

The push rod should go up and down .200 If yours is not moving the rod is not riding on the cam lobe or the lobe has wiped right out. Is the engine old or a new rebuilt? I have seen new rebuilt engines that some one installed new cam bearings and didn't line up the hole in the bearing. Walt

Walt,

Condition unknown. The engine would start with the modified push rod but it's slightly bent due to being hollowed out and made a racket. You may be right about the cam lobe.
With oil baffle removed the rod sits about 1/4 " lower and bottom's out on the cam lobe. That's quite a distance before making contact. Maybe that's the answer to my problem and why a previous owner modified the pushrod to make it somewhat adjustable (longer) to make the mechanical pump work. Phil

[JM 35 Sedan]

Always good to keep same topic on one post for folks trying to understand what has already been covered on this problem.....http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193272

I am thinking maybe you might have a combination of the wrong parts, or parts that have been modified incorrectly, and being combined, possibly causing your problem. I am wondering how much material was removed on the aftermarket intake where the fuel pump stand mounts, what length oil baffle tube you have, and how the aftermarket fuel pump stand compares in height to a stock FP stand?

[36 ford]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Could someone have cut off part of the bottom of the rod and the "umbrella" is resting on the casting?

The manifold is an early edelbrock 2X2's with an aftermarket stand. The "umbrella" does indeed rest flush on the casting. The rod is uncut 8.75 length.
A friend of mine , bob Brust called Speedway about their pushrods and they told him to cut an inch off the long rod if I needed the short one.
Bad advice!

[JSeery]

Did you cut the wrong end?

[Bored&Stroked]

Do us all a favor and measure the height at the back of the manifold - intake surface to fuel pump stand surface. I'll bet it is the same as stock - but lets go see.

Then you'll know what fuel pump push rod length you should have

[36 ford]

Thanks for your posts!
John, Thanks for your words about having the same topic instead of creating another.
I wasn't getting any responses to a follow-up question on that thread so I decided to have a new topic and people are responding. The length of the baffle is 4 inches. It does not appear the aftermarket stand was modified in any way. Comparing the original stand on my 36' it is the same as the aftermarket at 3.25"

Jerry, I did not cut the push rod having read that is case hardened on the cam lobe end and cutting it compromises the integrity of it.

B&S, the aftermarket stand is 3.25 inches high and the height from the block to the surface where the stand mounts to the intake is 2.5 " With all due respect to your question about pushrod length, it the long version doesn't reach the cam lobe what are my options?

[JWL]

Did you follow the previous instruction to insert a smaller diameter rod, like a 1/4", down into the pushrod hole to determine whether or not it will rest against the cam lobe and give an indication of offset lift????? I have NEVER seen a cam lobe with zero offset remaining. As someone else said, it is possible the cam bearing is not allowing the pushrod to pass through to the camshaft lobe.

[Pete]

I am with JWL on the worn pump lobe.
I have seen thousands of flathead cams with shot fuel pump lobes but never one that was completely gone. You should note at least a 32nd of an inch lift.
Assuming everything was right and all the parts fit, NO ammount of adjusting the length of the push rod will make the pump work if the lobe is gone.

[flatheadmurre]

Take a small rod and stick it down the right side of the bore until it stops mark lenght.
Then do the same on the left if you got 2 different measures the bearing is interfering with the bore.
Get a dial gauge to measure with then you see if it is down on the lobe or not, as said before there should be some lift left.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by 36 ford

The manifold is an early edelbrock 2X2's with an aftermarket stand. The "umbrella" does indeed rest flush on the casting. The rod is uncut 8.75 length.
A friend of mine , bob Brust called Speedway about their pushrods and they told him to cut an inch off the long rod if I needed the short one.
Bad advice!

The umbrella should not rest on the casting . I had one awhile ago that the umbrella had slid down the rod about 1/2in, is the 1/2in. dia pipe thats about 6in. long and presses into bottom of the pump stand still with it? How about the 2in. dia. pipe that the flange sets on the top of the intake? Walt

[36 ford]

With the baffle removed and the rod resting on the cam lobe there was significant up and down movement (unable to measure since I'm by myself) I'd guess 1/16" or more. Is it possible another baffle is needed to allow the rod to engage the cam? This would explain the modified push rod in an effort to make it longer but the knocking it produces is awful. How about modifying the baffle?

[36 ford]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

The umbrella should not rest on the casting . I had one awhile ago that the umbrella had slid down the rod about 1/2in, is the 1/2in. dia pipe thats about 6in. long and presses into bottom of the pump stand still with it? How about the 2in. dia. pipe that the flange sets on the top of the intake? Walt

Walt, my mistake... the umbrella rests on the inside of the baffle.
I do not have the 6" x 1/2" pipe you refer to.

[36 ford]

Is this what's missing on my setup? There is no extension on my aftermarket stand.

[scooder]

The umbrella rests on the inside of the baffle? The pushrod goes in first, then the baffle.
Is this your problem?
Yes you should have the tube pressed into the fuel pump stand, but I've seen it work without it, just have to make sure the pushrod end fits into the cup on the pump arm.
Martin.

[36 ford]

Scooder, I think you are on to something. The short end of the pushrod goes down first then the baffle over that? No wonder i wasn't getting anywhere. If something can go in one of 2 ways I always pick the wrong way.