Setting the points on a Bubba crab

[36 ford]

First experience with a crab and this is one of Jim's. I see allen screws in there and what looks like black adjustment screws which are torqued tightly. My 39 wouldn't start although it wanted to so I pulled the crab and see that one set of points are not opening all the way.

Sure could use some pointers.

Phil

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Phil,

We use stainless allen screws and then use a ball allen driver to set these up. They seem to stay adjusted and the ball tool allows pretty easy adjustment .
If ya cant get it set ship it back to us for a machine set up at no charge.
I really want to know when one of our units have a problem as we take pains in preventing this from ever happening.......

[Bassman/NZ]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Phil,

We use stainless allen screws and then use a ball allen driver to set these up. They seem to stay adjusted and the ball tool allows pretty easy adjustment .
If ya cant get it set ship it back to us for a machine set up at no charge.
I really want to know when one of our units have a problem as we take pains in preventing this from ever happening.......

Don't ya just love the Barn? This reply from Jim just epitomises what the Barn is about!

[36 ford]

Thank you, Jim! I will send it to you with a note in the box and return postage.

Phil

[Capt Kirk]

A rare breed right there...someone willing to stand behind his work even when he doesn't have to. Kudo's from me Jim.

[FireEngineMike]

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[Lawson Cox]

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[47COE]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Phil,

I really want to know when one of our units have a problem as we take pains in preventing this from ever happening.......

I've been meaning to tell you about a problem I found with a distributor from my 47 truck that you worked on.

The truck didn't run right but I didn't know why. I did figure that the reworked distributor was probably OK.

Well it finally quit dead. Skipping over a bunch of head scratching I found that the primary contact was intermittent. See the arrow in the picture below. Took it apart and cleaned up both surfaces with emery cloth and that fixed it. Is cleaning both of those surfaces part of your normal procedure? Apparently it wasn't done when my distributor was reworked.

This distributor was in the truck when I got it 40 years ago. And it could have been there many years before that. So it had plenty of opportunity to develop a layer of crud on one or both of those surfaces. I worked on the points once in awhile over the years, but never the sliding primary contact.


Tom

[ford38v8]

Bah, Rednecks. Sierra Nevada Pale.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by 47COE

I've been meaning to tell you about a problem I found with a distributor from my 47 truck that you worked on.

The truck didn't run right but I didn't know why. I did figure that the reworked distributor was probably OK.

Well it finally quit dead. Skipping over a bunch of head scratching I found that the primary contact was intermittent. See the arrow in the picture below. Took it apart and cleaned up both surfaces with emery cloth and that fixed it. Is cleaning both of those surfaces part of your normal procedure? Apparently it wasn't done when my distributor was reworked.

This distributor was in the truck when I got it 40 years ago. And it could have been there many years before that. So it had plenty of opportunity to develop a layer of crud on one or both of those surfaces. I worked on the points once in awhile over the years, but never the sliding primary contact.


Tom

We typically polish the brass contact on a wire wheel and clean the removable contact as well. Each button is checked for tension and any unusual is thrown away . The contact is then sprayed with electrical contact enhancer and then ran on a machine for some time.
I actually test and run each unit and apply the purple ( called spark) nail polish to the screws as a reminder thats it all ok.
BUT ya know things do happen ................