What type solder for carburetor jet repair

[supergnat]

I am finally rebuliding the carburetor (H over H) on my 28. Tom Endy's proceedure recommends soldering the jets and then drilling them out to the correct size. What type of solder should I use (silver, 50/50, etc)?
Thanks,
Supergnat

[Pete]

50/50 works fine.

[Carb Guy]

Silver solder, also have to flow test them, it is the only way to know they are flowing at the right amount.

[Kevin in NJ]

Probably should not touch them until you know they are not right.

FordGarage Carb Jets

[H. L. Chauvin]

Agree with Kevin's suggestion in #4 above.

Lots of times jets accumulate a varnish like residue, especially when left surrounded with ethanol in fuel, whereby they become partially clogged & only need sludge cleaning.

You may not beleive what works to clean carburetor jets, so if you doubt, don't try.

But if you later get curious, here is a vintage type carburetor jet cleaner used & passed down through generations since Model T days.

For an experiment, find (2) of the crustiest, corroded, dark brown or green carburetor jets, along with (2) corroded pennies that look as dirty as the jets.

Place one of each item in separate, small cereal bowls.

Add the best carburetor cleaner you have to (1) bowl.

Add Louisiana Hot Sauce to the other bowl.

With a two (2) separate single strands of fine, straight copper auto electrical wire, run each wire through holes in separate jets a few times to allow each separate solution to thoroughly wet the insides of each separate jet, & place separated items back in separate solutions.

Wait (15) minutes & rinse each item with water while rubbing corrosion residue off with fingers.

A response to what you observe is not necessary.

[d.j. moordigian]

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I agree with Kevin also. I do have a question(s) for you supergnat..

1. Do the jets match the book, number wise?
2. Does the carburetor work OK...and just need a cleaning?
3. Does it have a problem that you didn't tell us?
4. Should have asked this first...does it have original jets?

[RonC]

It's been my experience that running wires and drill bits through carb jets changes the flow rates of the jets. I would clean with penetrating fluid and test the flow rates with a flow tester

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Clean it well, set it up & adjust it properly, if it runs well, don't diddle with re-soldering, re-drilling, flow testing, etc. Get it on the road QUICKLY 'afore you're too OLD to drive!! Thank you, Bill W.

[supergnat]

Thanks for all of your replies. I think my carb was rebuilt by the previous owner so I doubt if I have any original jets. If I did, how could I tell? The car was running very rich so I pulled it to look inside. The exterior looked very good as it appears to have been receintly painted. I had no difficulty in removing any of the jets. I did find about 1/8 inch of powdered iron in the bottom of the bowl and similar residue in other areas of the carb. I ordered rebuild kit from Brattons plus a vinton valve, single venturi, and secondary valve in case I needed them. All of the jets I removed from the carb had holes larger than specified in Tom Endy's rebuild proceedure. I therefore assumed that the best thing to do would be to solder the new jets and re-drill them per the Tom Endy proceedure. I use the paper clip method to check all the passage ways and found on obstructions. I used a Gunk carb cleaning kit to clean the carb, blew air through every port and orfice, and repainted the body black after masking the connection surfaces and other holes. I did not paint the interior of the bowls. Also, my venturi came out fine and looks as good as the new one I just purchased. This is all I can think of to answer the questions posed by those who responded to my question. Im not sure if I know how to do a flow test. If I solder and then drill the jets (the brass ones that came with the kit) to the correct hold diameter is it still necessary to perform a flow test? Is the flow test something that I can easily rig-up? I do have 50/50 solder and also silver solder so I can use either.
Thanks again.
Supergnat

[RonC]

Originally Posted by supergnat

............ I doubt if I have any original jets. If I did, how could I tell? ....................................... If I solder and then drill the jets (the brass ones that came with the kit) to the correct hold diameter is it still necessary to perform a flow test? Is the flow test something that I can easily rig-up? Supergnat

Original jets are numbers
I would flow test them still
It is easy to do you just have to build yourself one out of copper tubing or PVC. Most use 36 inches of head (the height of water above the jet) but Ford used 37.25. Make sure the head (36 or 37.25 inches) is exact measured from the center of the outlet of the jet to the top of the water. Whichever one you use make sure you use the cooresponding flow rates in the attached link. See link. I like Al Blatter's but will try Ford's in future.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/jetflowrates.htm

[Richard Lorenz]

If you have to solder the tip, make the depth of the solder as short as possible. A long passage through the solder (more than 1/16 inch ???) will slow down the flow. You might be able to drill out the excess solder from the entrance end. Flow test if possible, as others have recommended, although it is easy to try it in the carburetor on your car without doing a flow test.

[supergnat]

Thanks for the responses. Sorry it took me so long to reply. I've been helping my sister deal with the results of Sandy.

Based on the responses, I checked my jets and found that they are originals so I probably will not be using the kit I bought. I cleaned my old jets well and all are clear. I used the paperclip method followed by carb cleaner and compressed air to clean the ports of the carb and they are all clear. I repainted the body but want to flow test the jets before I re-assemble everything. I have seen photos of the test jigs but don’t know any details regarding their construction use. Do I need some kind of pump or do I just fill the 37.25 inch tube with water and measure the flow using that water? What should the diameter of the tub be (1/2, ¾, etc.)? One set-up photo show a pump but another does not. I'm not clear how to build the fixture so some additional information would be appreciated. I have attached a photo of my jets and other parts. Thanks in advance.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Steve Pargetter's carb book has all the details to make a flow tester. A book well worth the money. You can use a pump to recirculate the water, or just connect to a faucet.

[supergnat]

Thanks Tom,
I purchased the Restoring the Model A and B Carb by Gordon Biggar. It has a lot of information but no details (only a photo) on the flow fixture. If I cannot borrow the Steve Pargetter's book from one of the club members I will purchase it.
Thanks,
Supergnat

[160B]

The photos show the testing column that I built with a submersible pump as a means to provide a water supply for flow testing. This column is built using ¾ inch white schedule 40 PVC. The only critical dimension is the column height of 36 inches measured from the center of the overflow connection at the top to the center of the connection for testing jets. I installed a valve to regulate the flow from the pump up the column and a valve to start and stop the flow to the jet being tested. I have two calibrated burettes, one a 0 to 200 milliliters and another 0 to 50 milliliters for measuring the flow through the jet being tested. The following table is the recommended flow and starting jet size and corresponding drill size. The important thing is to obtain the correct flow, drill size will vary based on the quality of manufacture of the drills you have. Start small and work your way up slowly until you obtain the desired flow. The information I use is from Steve Pargeter’s book “Zenith Model “A’ Carburetor Restoration Guidelines”. I have seen other sources recommend different suggested flows and starting drill sizes. Chris Pelikan has an excellent web site http://www.model-a.org/idle_jet.html

Jet Name - Suggested Flow - jet size - Drill size
Idling Jet - 44 to 48 ml/min - 0.021 - # 76
Cap Jet - 150 to 185 ml/min - 0.036 - # 64
Main Jet - 150 to 160 ml/min - 0.035 - # 67
Compensator Jet - 138 to 142 ml/min - 0.037 - # 63

[Richard Lorenz]

I use an electronic scale to measure the amount of water. It is safe to assume that the density of water is 1.00 grams per milliliter. That is 1 gm equals 1 ml. This method gives more accuracy than direct volume measurement. You must re-zero the scale with the water receptacle on the scale before collecting the water. The scale reading after collecting the water gives you the water weight / volume directly.

[supergnat]

Thanks Richard and 160B. I think I now have all the information I need. I will begin collecting the parts tomorrow.
Supergnat

[160B]

Originally Posted by supergnat

Thanks Richard and 160B. I think I now have all the information I need. I will begin collecting the parts tomorrow.
Supergnat

Make sure that when you build the column that it is vented at the top. I used a "T". I have seen people use a 90 Deg elbow and if there is no vent at the top, the water will pull a suction when it goes over the top and you will not have the correct water column pressure. If you use a 90 Deg elbow, you must drill a vent hole in the elbow to eliminate the suction.

I also recommend Steve Pargeter’s book “Zenith Model “A’ Carburetor Restoration Guidelines”.